Dayton Audio DSP408 /miniDSP 6x8

Ideally, I'd like to get all the wiring done today, and tune tomorrow.

 

Trying to make it easier to remove if need be - found this trailer extension was an excellent harness for the remote on power and ground for the dsp.

I have another fuse block at the battery.



Red is remote on, white will be ground.

The power on is at the fuse block.

Just need to solder the truck side of the remote on and ground.

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks. I'm really REALLY trying to take my time on this. Whenever I get close to the finish line, I rush and fuck up....

I'm going to edit my order of operations tomorrow. I'm hoping to get power to everything and function check, but I am going to shut it off after and wait until the weekend to tune. I still need to solder in my caps, and am waiting on the polarity checker. I could swear something ain't right with my right side, and the software will change phase for me.

I'm probably going to wrap the top of the dsp for consistency as well.

 

Lot of fucking work to hear Franklin's Tower or First Tube in good SQ....

 

A good system is always alot of work. Make sure the DSP software is up to date.

Did you buy both polarity pieces or just the checker? The other piece makes the pop, and you can hook it directly to the speaker wires from the amp. Or play a polarity test tone from a USB drive and check it that way.

 

I bought just the checker, and am going to use the test tone off of my tone USB.

 

Any recommendations for REW/RTA SPL apps to use with the mic?

 

I have REW on my MAC that I use. Just use the rta part to see what frequencies need to be corrected.

 

OK, so I'm getting deeper into the rabbit hole here: how do you "fix" the frequencies or rather, translate the data from the REW to the DSP?

 

I use REW to view the frequencies. You will adjust the EQ in the DSP so that the frequencies are as flat as you can get them. You will play pink noise, which should be on SMD's tones for this.

Once you have it flat, everything should be playing on the same field, and you can start listening to music and making changes from there. Becareful boosting some frequencies as it might boost others around it also.

 

Well I got everything today. Put power to the system and set the gains. Loaded my crossover file to the DSP then turned everything on with the volume at zero.

And got a buzz. In all of the speakers at zero volume. Stupid ground issue. Got to redo my ground point which means I have to take the rack back out to get to it.

Donkey balls.

Anyway I did turn the volume up and I think I have a phase issue on my midwifer drivers. The 254s however sound Ultra crisp. I am going to have to either pull back some gain or turn them down a little bit in the DSP.

I set the gains using 0 DB tones. I'm going for SQ now.

Had a really great chat with Mr Marv on all things audio. That guy is just an encyclopedia of knowledge for car audio.

 

I have not talked to Marv yet, but hear awesome things about him.

Where do you have it grounded at? Make sure you and scuffed the paint off to bare metal for a good connection.

 

It's grounded the same place I had my amp grounded before. I combined the ground for the DSP in the amp onto a new ferrule shrink wrapped it and bolted it to the back wall where it was previously. And that is probably what the issue is.

The Daytons are notoriously sensitive with grounding from what I have read. Marv said there's a really good spot to ground in the rear corners of the cab behind the plastic trim where the seat belt mechanism is mounted so I'm going to give that a shot tomorrow. He said he's tested that for resistance in that spot has almost no resistance.

 

I was going to suggest that same spot.

 

Well, here's to hoping it works. The bolted position it is in now is one of the bolts that holds the plastic trim behind the seats in place. I had been using it for the AudioControl amp before I started the DSP process. The ArcAudio amp was grounded to a seat bolt.

Also, from my reading last night, people mention about having the RCA wires close to the power - My RCAs come down the passenger side, power down the driver side. However behind the amp rack there is a bundle of RCA extra cordage that I need to wrap and maybe pin away from the power.

Quite a few people mention to change the RCAs all together to good coaxial RCAs, but when the person having the issue does that, there is no change.

 

Crossing fingers

 

I'm pretty sure it's the ground (here's to hoping). Perhaps I didn't do as good a job as I thought on it....



Probably not the best spot. This is before I had integrated the DSP ground with the amp ground on a new fitting. But that spot works fine for the Amp - with zero issues before the DSP was added.

 

Did you scuff it to bare metal? Still looks like the paint is there.

Also, with it turned on and buzzing, pull the RCAs out the DSP. If the buzz goes away, then it's the RCAs.

Here is a video on finding good ground points.
https://youtu.be/eIB4IaNWS_M

 

Yeah, like I said, might not be the best job.

However, when I pull out the RCA's, the noise does go away. I believe the bundle of extra is laying on the power, so I'm going to fix that as well.

Another item of note: The pre-amp outputs of my head unit are 5v. The max input voltage for the DSP is 3.2v. Think that might be an issue?