Surfing Tacoma Quivers

one of my fav pics, been wanting one for a couple years now but i just dont get after it anymore


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ajophhd-_eo

lol this is just funny

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvbmiQ0zG0E

 

I have the 6’ quad skipper. It’s fun. An charge shorebreak with it. Handles well in bigger days too. Super fun board

 

That's one of my favorite pics too. Those board transfers are the reason I want 2!

 

those boards do look fun, im talking a buddy of mine to get into surfing and may be just the board for him to buy

 

Which board you ride does matter. If you are learning, you should be on a foam board. Not a new custom local shape. Who cares about the money part. Do what you want with your money. It’s about safety. Nothing about surfing scares me more than beginners on hard boards coming at me and not knowing how to control their board. Get a wave storm. If you think that’s “selling out” get a catch surf. Or go to your local surf shop and buy a foamie from them so you can “support local”. Also, even with your foam board, don’t paddle out around other people. Go down the beach and find crap waves and surf there for at least a year.
The one thing that has boggled my mind more then anything in the surfing world is people’s lack of awareness that they are trying to surf waves out of their ability. Blows my mind that beginners aren’t scared of big/crazy ocean conditions.

 

Honestly I think they’re just ignorant and that they aren’t fully aware of the power the ocean and moving water like that truly has. A lot of them tend to be land locked tourists renting a board and have never seen that much water at once. It’s the same as when there’s big swell and they play in just the shorebreak. Still have to get rescued because they just don’t understand how truly powerful the ocean is

 

There's some shallow cobblestone spots around here, too risky to ride expensive/nice stuff on.

Foamies are the way to go when its small and rocky

 

Im with you 100%. Support local. Buy a used board off Craigslist for the price of a wave storm if you’re new and don’t want to spend 1k on a log.

 

You get it!!

 

Got this 5'2 dms gherkin, can't believe how much fun it is. So far works great from 1 foot to a little over head.
https://youtu.be/I0Hz3kxQbu8

 

Those octopus pads are nice and thin. First pad I’ve actually liked the design of. Nice new whip. Looks like it surfs nice!

 

Definitely, been hooked on them ever since I tried one. The corduroy is great.

 

I think the main problem with the foam top crew is that once they get one they feel like it's perfectly fine to go and try to surf the peak waves at a surf break....or be in the way of others riding while they lay on the inside and not move out of the way. The etiquette is def missing. They don't understand that you learn down the beach bc of people like JOB and Ben Gravy... And even Kalani Robb. I didn't surf my local peak break for over 10 years before I felt good enough.

 

I don’t think that’s the board though. That’s just the ignorant beginners. If foamier didn’t exist they’d be doing the same crap on a regular board. Which is much rather prefer a foamie than a hard board coming at me. But what I’d really prefer is they ride a foamie and do it away from me.
Love em or hate em, foamies are here to stay.
Lastly, that video you posted is great. That wave looks super fun. Love little waist - shoulder high, clean waves in warm water. Makes me miss the Caribbean seeing that clip!

 

I think that the foam board is a lot less intimidating. Especially 20 to 45 year olds and females. At my break its not as much cutting people off all the time as being in the way on others good waves coming through the inside.... Since they don't know how to get out of the way or duck dive. 8/10 times the culprit is on a foam top here in Florida. I'm more hoping this trend dies out the same way paddle boarding has died out here. But in the mean time my local break has been much more aggro towards the unaware surfers. It'll work itself out eventually.

 

Nothing teaches bad board management and ignores the consequences of surfing quite like a foam board. 10/10 people on foam boards bail their board in an oncoming wave if they can’t get above it. “Hey it’s chill tho they’re on a foam board” No! Not chill. First time they’re on a glass board and bail it in the face of an oncoming wave they could hurt someone. Teach them right immediately by being on a real board. Leave the foam boards for the JOB wannabes ( like me!).

you don’t see driving schools taking their students to the bumper cars for training.

 

Good to hear that people get what I was trying to pass along.

I am all for different wave crafts and have more than most and includes everything from Handplanes to Gliders.

As it was said they are clogging the lineup with inexperienced folks. And yes a beginner will get way more respect with a real board. But, times are changing and surfing is changing and not for good. But what do I know as I am a Kook and an Idiot....

 

lol doom and gloom bud...


lineups have been getting "clogged" with inexperienced first timers since the invention of wave riding... just ask any grumpy local, because there is always someone with something to complain about in life IMHO and surfing is no exception


the times sure do change, but riding a wave is what it is... I would bet that at the time some surfing veteran looked at a young gerry lopez and called it some blasphemous horse shit surfing like that...

there will always be those who seek out the traditionalist purest way possible, and there will be those that just rent a board one time and never try again....

there is a stick for everyone so cowabunga kemosabi

 

No, but you do see a big ass “student driver” sign. I’m gonna push for beginners to wear a big ass “kook” sign until they prove they can navigate the lineup proper.

 

People used to look at leashes the way grichg and I look at foam boards. Lol. So point proven.

You won’t catch me paddling out without a leash in anything above waist high because I lack the board handling skills of the previous generation. In north county SD I would be considered a kook