Rust protection

This seemed to be an ok evaluation/test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXlhmbvdKBo&ab_channel=RepairGeek

 

I use this .
it dries to a waxy coat, did it 4 years ago and its still there.

LPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor Premier Rust Inhibitor

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-LPS-P...?dchild=1&keywords=lps3&qid=1600991877&sr=8-2

 

That's good stuff. I use it on all my power equipment. If you don't mind a wax on the underside that is really good. But if you would like to wash underside say 5 or 6 years down the road so you can see the raw paint the fluid film will be easier to remove. But I did consider using that but decided to go fluid film because I want to be able to detail the underside with ease later on.

 

How many cans did you use? Debating whether to get black vs. Clear. Do you like how the black looks?

 

I got the 6 pack and have 1 can left over, I did the 2 coats.
As my pictures show I went with the black instead of clear so I can see how well it holds up and could map coverage.
Also deciding factor is that it cannot be washed off and does not attract dust bugs etc.....
Photos were taken in May and I hit quite a few dusty roads here in Ohio
https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/

 

As far as applying the rp-342 cosmoline i don't agree with that video when he says it takes 2 coats, and a 12 hr cure time. You have an option to apply a second coat, but its not mandatory. Cosmoline will dry in an hr, or so. After that the vehicle is good enough to drive off. It took roughly 5 cans to coat the chassis on my truck. I suppose i could of used more to do a more through job, but i'll keep an eye out to see what i missed down the road. I used amber, and it still looks great after 3 months. Could of used black, but more expensive.

 

Just got done using the marine crc corrosion heavy duty one. Has a amber coat and dry at the touch. Dont forget to spray underneath the side of the truck body sheet.

 

Don't forget to drop the spare tire and get it all up in there too.

 

And get behind your ears.

 

No need to drop it if you have the pro gun. Just use the 360 flex wand and push pull in between it and the bed

 

Uggghh. That spare is gonna be coated in wax. Why not spend the 28 seconds to drop the spare?

 

Wheel won’t rust then ;-)

 

Fair enough, neither will the tire or the composite bed.

 

As mentioned earlier I use a two tier - thin oil thick oil - application. For really tight areas I squirt in a thinner preservative oil, sometimes an oil with a VPI (vapor phase inhibitor) and then cover and seal with a waxy dry cure preservative like Amsoil HDMP. I also disagree with the video, no way does the truck need to sit a full day. A couple hours and the stuff is not washing off and certainly doesn't stink - it does work well and does not blast off with water. I estimate 3-4 cans will do the truck pretty well, with some left over.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-metal-protector-amhsc/?zo=515729

 

There is place not far from me that uses this stuff. I have never heard of it until now. More googling to do......

 

I did corrosion free, had it done in PA at Dave's Auto in Boyertown I think. So far no complaints- except Dave not doing it currently- not sure if a covid thing or what but I was due for another last spring. I bought several cans and will reapply myself if he doesn't start doing it again by end of Oct...

 

The bigger benefit is dropping the spare gives better access to the tire hoist for rust proofing as well.

All my used Toyota’s have had a seized hoist because POs never had a flat apparently and also no one ever greased/rust proofed the mechanism.

 

Better yet just remove all the tires, and engine skid guard to better get at all the front frame/chassis stuff...there's also steel tubing under there that salt spray can corrode...trust me i had this issue on my tundra when ignoring coating them....tubing associated to the power steering rack rotted right through.

 

to the guys saying the softish fluids will attract dirt, dust etc... so will a dry panel. ever drive down a wet dirt road? yes you will get some residue but, the protection of fluid film overrides the "worry about dirt". if you are that concerned, get an undercarriage or power broom attachment for your pressure washer, and spray the undercarriage a day or so before applying your fluid film/rust protector.

for me i bought the fluid film in kit form with a gallon of product, the sprayer, wands, multiple nozzles etc... knowing i would be doing this each year, to multiple vehicles. my last 2 new vehicles were treated like this: new auto, before first snow/salt event, coat EVERYTHING UNDER THE TRUCK, EXCEPT THE BRAKES AND EXHAUST. I also bought several spray cans, from lowes. with the long spray can hose adapter in the kit, i can do the bottom of doors, tail gate, hood, inner fenders, WITHOUT DRILLING ANY HOLES.

my thoughts are spray in the fall, wash as you can, the next spring, wash the undercarriage, in summer when it rains and the salt is gone let the rain do it's thing. in the fall, recoat with fluid film. my 17 sierra looks like new underneath with 3 winters. my 19 tacoma only has one winter but, looks like it did when i bought it, albeit a bit wetter and shinier from the FF coatings.

with us doing it ourselves, we KNOW it has BEEN DONE RIGHT. remove wheel liners, spare, tail gate access panel etc... spray over the wheel wells, remove the rocker plugs, HOSE IT IN THERE! the first application is close to 3 quarts of FF for me. then it is touching it up, with a light over coat each fall, usually less than 2 quarts. when you buy a gallon it will do at least 2 autos, or 2 treatments. i buy a gallon every other year.

Ski

 

Not doing it currently? Dang. That was the place I was thinking to use.