U1117 : no connection from accessory gateway

Where is that located in the vehicle, do you know? Or do you mean the main gauge cluster? That harness is connected and seems to be working just fine for everything else. I'll have to check that pin and see.


I checked out the wiring in the doors. The harness is all connected to the back right door. I have sound out of the speaker and everything looks perfect but still no window.

I got caught fixing a surface laptop for my wife so I didn't get a chance to break out the multimeter yet.

 

So, I didn't get a chance to check out the passenger kick panel earlier. I just went out now in the dark and didn't see anything in depth.

I did notice a black plug with nothing connected. As it isn't dusty or anything, I'm thinking something used to be plugged in here. Not sure where the wire would be though. Wonder if this is part of the issue?

I tested voltage at the door, I think I have the right pins? No voltage. Checked those same pins on the rear driver's side and I got 13v.

So the passenger rear door doesn't seem to be getting power. It is getting sound though so the main harness in the B pillar I believe is not the issue.

I'm thinking it has to do with the power somewhere at the passenger foot well.

 

I noticed in this thread customtacos.com/threads/hazard-lights-not-working.83117/ (can I post links here? Hope I can)

That they say the hazard is identical to signals except that it is grounded by the passenger kick panel.

I'm starting to think this can't be a coincidence, if the hazards ground around the same spot as the passenger rear door window, I wonder if that is my issue. I have a bad ground or missing ground around there. I'll have to look more in depth when I get more light. Let me know if you have any insight to this. I appreciate all your help!!!

 

I don't know what you are testing there, but :

#2 is the fused 20A power
The Rear Door Switch sends fused power to the window motor via pins #7 (UP) & #1 (DOWN) but the completed choice is sent to ground by the Power Window Master Switch on Driver's door.

 

So I was testing pin #2 (fused power) with pin #3 (ground).

On the driver's side rear door this showed voltage. On the passenger rear door I don't see any voltage.

I am going to test IL3 pins 3 and 4 and see if I get voltage.

I can't help but think I have a bad ground issue.

Edit: I went and tested it.
3 and 4 on IL3 is giving SOME voltage but it is VERY small.
I had to set my multimeter to 2000m to see that it was detective 10.
I am assuming this means basically NO voltage.

I was able to test continuity now though between IL3 and the plug in the door and that seems to all be good. So I THINK that this means there would be an issue either at the master Door switch or somewhere between IL3 and the fuse?

I saw your post of where the 30amp fuse was but I couldn't find it in my truck.

Can I bug you to explain it's location again? Sorry man. I just wasn't following where that 30amp fuse is.

I am assuming it is moot, as it is the same fuse for the passenger front as it is for the passenger rear, but I figured I should check it out anyways.

 

When going through the service guide (i have it in a PDF) what I find most confusing is that where it says "See Page" in the troubleshooting, it always just says "INFO".
Is there something I am doing wrong with this? How do I see what page it is on. All I see is "info" in a blue box.

 

The bottom yellow is the fuse cover...the High Current fuse is above on the outside. The are facing the passenger side.

 

If you know anything about a PDF, if the file reference is not in the same folder you get nothing.

 

The problem seems to be the specific file I have. There is no file reference, it is all in one large master document of 11,292 pages. The buttons don't have any clickable element, even bringing it into adobe. I thought maybe there was a specific Toyota software I needed to load it in or something. Even checking the markups, I am not seeing anything. So I think it is this specific PDF I downloaded.

 

Agreed, whoever copied the file forgot or missed to hyperlink the whole document.

 

Ok, I found them, and figured out why I couldn't find them before. They were covered in black electrical tape. So someone was definitely f'ing with these before!
I love trying to uncover mysteries. I am going to swap them on the off chance there is maybe just a bad connection. Long shot I know, but I am out of ideas at this point.

If I understand the diagrams and what you have mentioned, the power goes

Battery -> Fuse Block in the cab -> 30 amp fuse (shared with Passenger Front Door) -> Passengers Front Kick Panel -> Along the floor in the large loom harness to the B pillar -> Into the door -> Door internal white connector -> Door switch.

I am not sure how much voltage I should have, but I am assuming 11v-14v DC. I have SOME voltage but it is trivial.

I couldn't see in the drivers kick panel if there was a second fuse or not for the rear door but looking at the schematics it doesn't look like there is.

So the one variable I don't know how to test, is that there is the ground that goes all the way back to the drivers master switch.

I do have a new master switch on the way, it will arrive on or before Oct 10th.
It also seems that my window lock button doesn't work on the drivers switch panel. So it is possible this is the only spot where the problem lies. I am not sure of another way to test. If I am just not getting voltage because I am not completing the circuit properly, I am not sure where I have an appropriate ground to properly test it. If I remember, window switches are always reverse polarity, no? This gets a bit over my head. So it is possible I am also just not testing things properly with my multimeter.

 

With your MultiMeter, pin #8 on IL3 to removed fuse pin for continuity check. One side of fuse is from relay (IGN) no power until vehicle in ACC or ON, the other pin is to rear door circuit. You'll be verifying wire from fuse pin to IL3 pin. Maybe your MultiMeter has short leads to reach across the cab.

 

K, good call. I was doing a test like this between IL3 and the rear door switch connector.

But.... I don't think i need to do this because :

I found my multimeter probe had a broken lead inside and throwing out all my tests. I stripped the plastic end off and touched the wire direct to PIN 3 on IL3 and I am getting 12v. Still, nothing at the door on pin 2 nor 4 (p16) but I will test everything again once I get my new probes for my multimeter. I should have them tomorrow so I will redo all tests.

Thank you again for all of the help. I am definitely narrowing it down but I am starting to think more and more that I am getting voltage, just not an appropriate ground.
My new probes have longer probes so I can test at the rear door switch to a better ground spot (or right to the battery) instead of testing the ground wire in the connector like I have been.

 

Since you have fused juice, then make a jumper. On the window switch connector, jump 2 with 1 and another jumper from connector pin 7 to ground.
If motor is fine window will go down.
You'll be by-passing the Main Window switch and the door window switch.
Remember it's 20A, don't use thin wires and do not cram the wire INTO the terminal in the connector. Identify the pins and use the rear of the terminals on the connector.



UP:

 

Thanks for all of the help. Seriously.... thank you very much! It's working now.

The connector IL3 had a bent pin and it wasn't connecting properly.

The only thing not working with my windows now is the window lock button but I'm pretty sure it's physically broken.

I have a new master switch cluster still on the way. I'm sure that will fix it.

The remote starter is being removed finally (fully) tomorrow and I am hoping that will fix my auto lights.

So that just leaves the mystery of the damn hazard button.

As it goes through the main dash gauge cluster and it's a single connection to the switch panel where the hazard switch is I am super confused as to how it could be fubar'd.

 

Maybe the switch itself is AFU...meter it...

 

Well when I press the switch, I am not sure how it's supposed to work but shouldn't it press down and lock in position? Then when you press it again it releases from that position.

When I press it there is no catch. It just goes right back to its normal position.

 

It should latch. Does it do anything if you keep it depressed?

 

Just went and tried. Yeah, it stopped the rear drivers window controls from working when I hold it down. That was quite the stretch of the arms, haha.

So yeah, it's phsycially broken. I took it apart before thinking it didn't feel right and it seemed like there may be parts from missing inside but I wasn't sure.

New one is on the way at least so thats another mystery solved.

I spoke to a tech at Toyota today about the DCT saying no connection to accessory gateway and he said that with the compustar starters it just does that. He says there are two systems that will always show that, so I need to run Techstream again tomorrow but I think that is all codes other than blind spot detection issue now taken care of.

The BSD I will prolly wait till spring as the truck doesn't fit in the garage. The bumper will prolly he the last thing I fix. I wonder if the BSD master has anything to do with the hazard switch?