Budget audio upgrade?

1. I found a $100 kicker 10" sub that looks promising. But the amps are so expensive. What do you recommend for amps? Have you guys done any budget audio systems?

2. Would running two 10" subs in this overpower the rest of my sound?

https://www.soundoffaudio.com/1995-2004-toyota-tacoma-extended-cab-truck-dual-subwoofer-enclosure/

 

You need to look at the specs on the subwoofer to see what its’ RMS and Peak wattages are, and then find an amp that can deliver at least the RMS wattage if you want to get consistent quality sound from the sub.

Im sure you can find an amp within your budget, there a ton of options on the market.

If you did go with 2*10” subs you’d have to find a more powerful amp to power both them, so likely not the best route for a “budget” system.. however, as I mentioned above, there are so many options out there you may be able to find one that fits the power needs of 2*10” subs for a good price.

As for overpowering the current audio you can adjust the amplifier and subwoofer as necessary, so I wouldn’t worry too much about that.

 

the cab is pretty small so two tens is probably overkill but that's also a matter of preference.

I have a 10" Kicker comp with a 600w amp in my extended cab and it will shake the mirrors and knock the wind out of your chest when you crank it.

 

to answer the budget amp question, I'd look at a Crunch amp. I bought one from Sonixelectronics 10 years ago and it's still kicking

 

Would a 600w amp run two of these?

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...wjcnKyK84LsAhX_CjQIHStlA1QQww96BAgPEEo&adurl=

 

Define "budget".

To be a bit nose in the air: "look at me" & "know I'm packing" do not play well with on a budget. Yes, you can move a lot of air for relatively low cost but it'll sound like low cost bass.

IMHO quality > quantity

 

My previous Tacoma was an '99 extended cab and I had a Audiobahn 10" pushed by a Kenwood eXcelon amp (400rms). Wasn't going to be the loudest but I could let myself be known when I wanted to. I admittedly saved & didn't replace the factory speakers but I spent $ on the head unit and could control every aspect of the signal sent to them.

But my advice is buy mid quality sub(s) and keep an eye out for a second hand amp.

 

Depends on what you mean by a "budget" system.

What's the rest of your system look like?

I have a doublecab with a really old ass 10" sub in a box I built and a cheap-o 100w amp, kenwood deck and stock door speakers, and never had the sub anywhere close to maxed out. The amp finally crapped out a while ago but I just haven't replaced it yet.

So yeah, a 600W amp with 2 10's is probably going to overwhelm the rest of your system, unless that's all you care about hearing.

If you want a "budget" system, just get one of these self powered subs that go under the seat ($169).
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PTD/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PTD.html?tp=114

Some decent components in the doors ($199):
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R5030CM/Infinity-Reference-REF-5030cx.html?tp=106

A decent 4 channel amp ($142):
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P6004AM/Infinity-Primus-6004a.html?tp=35782



Boom. Done.

 

@jbrandt always coming in solid. My whole system is stock except for a pioneer deck. For years I've wanted to get an Alpine ILX W650 touchscreen for the backup camera capability (I have a shell). I'm hoping it goes on sale Black Friday or Cyber Monday.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine...-media-receiver-black/6333656.p?skuId=6333656

If I run two subs, two mids in the back and two mids up front, (tweeters too?) would I still use a four channel?

 

You're wanting an amp for your door speakers as well? If so, yes. You'll either need a dedicated 2 channel amp for the subs & a 4 channel amp for your door speakers.

Also consider that you really should have a capacitor for the amp(s) or you're lights are going to dim when you go for the "look at me" at night. If its truly go big, you'll want to take into account the amperage of your alternator.

Not asking for last year's W2 but one person's "budget" build is another's dream build. Depending on your target #, buy subs new. Buy amp second hand--they last longer (I had the same '99 Kenwood amp in use for 18 straight years--still works just don't have a system these days). If there's still money, replace all four door speakers/tweeters. If not, they would be next on the list. After that a quality head unit (one that has more than basic bass/treble adjustments). Finally, amp the door speakers.

But again, my opinion on building a system if not dropping $$ at a single time.

 

Yeah, I've gotten spoiled with the camera on my 4Runner. I keep looking at my stereo expecting a video screen, lol.

IMO, the only reason to get a 4 channel, is to be able to upgrade your rear speakers should you ever want to. The component speakers I linked to have their own crossover so you don't need separate channels for them. A 2 channel amp is all you'd really need.

There are amps that have sub outs and full range outs, but I think they're more spendy. The integrated sub I also posted is a "budget" option lol...

You can run 2 speakers (subs) on a single channel amp, and set them up in parallel.

Another thing to think about is I remember back in highschool I had an Accord, and I built a huge ported box for a 12". It thumped, but it also took up a shit ton of storage room in the trunk! If I'm being honest, I hated the thing. That box you posted brings back those memories.

I wish I had pics, but I did it before my TW days. I had a 1st gen 5 lug Xtracab, and I modified one of the storage compartments to fit a 10" sub. I sealed it off on the inside, and did a *little* cutting and forming to get the 10 to fit. Didn't even cut the carpet. With the fold-down seat down, you couldn't tell there was a sub under there at all. When I sold it, I just took the speaker out and replace the compartment door, and you couldn't even tell! Did it thump? No, not really, but it was still plenty loud for the small cabin space. They didn't have those self contained under-the-seat subs like they do now. I would'a done one of those.

 

Oh man you just flooded my memory bank! First car was an '88 Izusu reg cab pickup that I took a sledge hammer to the lower rear bar of the seat to fit my janky first ever sub box behind it. Most god awful seating position afterwards! Second car was a '91 Sentra that I threw the two 10s & mismatched amp from the truck into then threw in an additional 12" & third amp. Left me with probably 2.5sq' of trunk. Thought I was hot ballin on a college budget!

 

I have this and I love it. Not to big and great sound in my extra cab.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kicker-P...g5lBBQ2WtY7w_vHcetBHCmc36j4DhA9BoCOZkQAvD_BwE

 

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...4-ohm-subwoofer-black/5712387.p?skuId=5712387

Is this a decent speaker with enough OHMs/frequency to pick up all ranges of bass?

 

Audio guys may know better but I got this stuff:

http://www.raamaudio.com/package-2-...56-25-sq-ft-and-4-1-2-yards-of-ensolite-foam/

There’s enough to cover my inner and outer door skins, floor, all the extra cab side walls, rear wall, and have enough left over to do a couple inner door skins on my daily. There’s a smaller kit I’d probably order for a regular cab.

 

I use a 5 channel amp (alpine pdx v9 I think..), let’s me power all the speakers and sub, but it’s necessarily budget. Might be able to find a used one though..

 

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine...r-black/4769803.p?skuId=4769803&ref=212&loc=1

Is this amp worth anything? It goes on the back of my head unit. I don't think it's as powerful as I want, nor do I think it has enough channels to run two subs, four mids, and two tweeters.

 

Thats a 4 channel amp so it'll deliver 45 watts RMS (sustained watts) to 4 channels (speakers). That said, most head units have a built in amp that delivers 35 watts RMS. Something to consider: is ~$200 worth only 40 more watts total?

If you replace your door speakers w/ component ones, they'll come with crossovers so the tweeters & their corresponding door speaker share a channel. But if you want a single amp for all four door speakers/tweeters & subs you'll need a 6 channel amp. Most likely cheaper to get one 4 channel amp for the door speakers & one 2 channel amp for the subs.

Also need to consider how many "pre amp" outs your head unit has. That # isn't an iron clad limit on the number of amps you can have but it does add a wrinkle. What head unit make & model do you have?

 

Headunit is an

$280 Alpine ILX W650 7" Double DIN Touchscreen Digital Multimedia Receiver with Bluetooth, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto

Alpine ILX W650. I have no idea about sound system jargon, RMS, amps, watts, channels, etc. Figured I would just post all the components I am interested in and see if they are compatible.

 

So it'll easily support the amps you want and the amp link would work for your door speakers. That said, for ~$100 more you can get an amp that will support all four door speakers & a single sub. That obviously isn't two subs but depending on your budget, might be a compromise.