Any woodworkers?

I’m getting a quote.
*edit: a quote for the A3-31


I’m looking at the 3hp Sawstop.

 

You should joint one edge and one face flat before planning. Concave side down. The planner will flatten the wood when planning but any bow will reappear once out of the planner only the board will be thinner.

 

I disagree.

So when your working with 12” inch stock, how do you put one Face down on your 8” jointer?
I know how to flatten my boards.

what you described, Is not necessarily the case. Depends on the wood species and how much material your trying to take off with one pass. If your are flattening out a concave bend With a planer, and it’s springing back, Your trying to take off too much material.. back it off a little bit.

 

You can definitely use a planer to flatten a board and remove defects. Doesn’t work for every thickness and species but that is my go to method. Light passes will remove a defect pretty easily.

Doesnt work well for thinner soft woods but with enough practice it’s definitely possible. You can also make a jig where you shim and glue the board to a “sled” then run that through the planer. This is guaranteed to get the defects out and then you pull apart the jig and flip the board and you’ll be good to go. I’ll see if I can find a video of this.

 

https://youtu.be/CiWnr5gsnHo

 

Jointing a wide board on a narrow jointer is easy. You'll have to remove the guard so watch your digits! For a 12" board on a 6"/8" jointer set your fence to joint half the board. 180# the board and joint the other half. The first pass leaves a wide and stable surface for the second pass. You should be taking 1/32" each pass and you may need to start with thicker stock as there may be tear out. Then use the planner.

It has nothing to do with species or the thickness you remove per pass. A finished board should have 2 faces that are parallel to each other and edges that are 90# to the faces. You can not do that just on a planner. One face has to be flat so it can reference off the flat planner table. If the wood is bowed you will not have a flat face to reference or end up with a flat board. I have yet to find a perfectly flat or square piece of rough stock wood. If you don't have a jointer you can make a sled as mentioned earlier but that's a lot of extra time and fussing. A sled works good on slabs.

Have a look at Youtube for the way to dress your rough lumber.

 

Yeah, unfortunately some jointers with the pork chop guard, they attach via a post that sticks up above the planing surface. So I either have to hammer the shit out of it down temporarily (and risk breaking it, and you can't find that part anymore), or find a different method. I can joint up to about 6-3/4" on my 6-1/8" without hitting the post. I'll finish up with a hand plane.

Making a sled is easy, and you only have to do it once.

 

I wasn’t suggesting you *can’t* do it all on a planer. I was suggesting you can’t do It all on a jointer. You need a planer and a jointer if your serious about WW anyways.
. I guess you can if you’d rather loose fingers than spend $600
I digress.

Id just buy The 6” jointer and a planer
Edited for grammar

 

That ash counter top i made that I posted pictures of a few weeks ago started from rough sawn ash. I squared it up and flattened it using only a planer and a couple of the boards had bad defects....just sayin...

I used a joiner for the edges of course, after I got the large faces flattened out and squared up. All these boards were edge glued up so if the boards were not square and true it would have been veryyy obvious.

Oh and running 10' 2" thick ash boards through the joiner is not an easy task, I had a hard time jointing the edges I can't imagine trying to do the faces.

 

I have to add though...it is highly dependent on the application and what you're making. I have found that planing thick rough sawn lumber is a pretty good way to get it true, but, in most of the applications I have done this it was smaller pieces (by small I mean 8-14" wide lol) that I was glueing up to form a counter top, desk, table, etc... in most of these cases I used a secondary method to ensure they were square and true during glue up. Usually a combination of biscuits and clamping the workpiece down to a flat surface. My dad is making a bunch of oak flooring from rough sawn white oak right now and he uses the planer to true it and get the thickness down then joins the edge and runs it through the table saw to finish squaring it up. Again in this case it is flooring that will be nailed down which helps to ensure it has parallel faces. So the planer gets it pretty close to parallel/true if not dead on and then the secondary method (biscuits, clamps, nails, etc...) gets it the rest of the way if you catch my drift...

There are certainly situations where a joiner or planer sled is needed...I personally have not encountered many if any. Plus the planer is a much easier and safer tool to use than the joiner so it's my go to.

 

Yes you do need both tools. I like to build furniture so I buy all my lumber rough so a planner and jointer are necessary for a good finish product. If you have the space and $$$$ a 8" jointer is the way to go and you can get away with a 12" planner. A 8" has a longer infeed/outfeed tables for those long boards. Just rip your boards to fit your machinery's limits. As they say 'Crap in Crap out'.

 

Bottle opener

 

I’m looking at the 3hp Sawstop.

that is what I have. Wonderful saw. Upgraded the saw blades but otherwise straight out of the box.

 

pro or industrial ?

 

I have an 8 in Grizz parallelogram with helical head. Had it for three years now, probably my most used tool with my TS. I haven’t had to fix, or touch it at all, rotated the blades once, cuts like a dream, flat and true. reminds me of my Sawstop, I never have to really think about or worry about, every time I show up to use, it just plain works, no fuss, no delays. Would rec.

 

+1 on the Sawstop. Besides the safety aspect (which i think is a requirement if you’re looking at buying newer stuff) it’s just a great TS. Well made, smooth, accurate once set up. I have the 3hp Industrial and with the right blade that’s always been plenty of power for me.

 

I got the 1.75 bc I was already at my budget limit at the time,,,but doing it over again, if I had the money would definitely get the 3hp. The 1.75hp has done everything I needed to do, but definitely can get a little fussy on your maples and hardwoods, 3hp would just let you plow through most anything especially if you haven't sharpened your blade in a few years!! Lol.

 

I made four large hardwood carriage doors (seen in my profile image) which used 10 8ft x 8/4 Doug Fir. I used a planer sled which was basically a thin torsion box made from mdf and used hot glue and shims to keep the board from rocking. Worked great, weighed a ton. Definitely needed infeed and outfeed stands/rollers.

 

Another sawstop owner checking in here, great saw even w/o the sensing as others have said. I have the 1.75hp PCS and it used to bog down with a thin kerf blade binding in thicker hardwoods with some internal stress; but now using 1/8" Freud blades and haven't had a hiccup since.

 

Ive also noticed that thin kerf blades cut whacky compared to a real 1/8 kerf