Need some advice for boosted 1GR rebuild.

Still running really rich?

 

Yeah, unfortunately. I attempted to adjust the injectors with the HPtuner to account for the increase in size, and had minimal success. It wasn't throwing a code anymore, but I decided to stop before I did any harm.

 

Ok. Yeah. Then the scaling is off for the injectors, and that is the reason. Once you have contact with @JustDSM , and get the fueling sorted, then carry on with the break‐in. Don't want to fuel wash the cylinders, or have excessive fuel get past the rings into the oil during this most important part.

 

I think he's a busy guy, I haven't heard from him in a few days. In the meantime, I'm just trying to learn everything I can about the tuning process. I wanted to pick your brain about boost controllers, too. Are you using an EBC?

 

I am using one through the Haltech.

I used to have a GReddy one.

I can try and help. What questions do you have?

 

Question: I was doing a boost leak test tonight and have air getting past the turbo seal and gurgling in the oil pan. Would this be different if the turbo had oil pressure? Is there any hope that this would be a normal finding in a truck that hasn't run in a while?

 

Hello mate. The first thing needed to help you overcome these potential issues, are pictures of your engine bay. That way we can see what is going on with your vacuum routing. Please please please take some pictures.

 

Right! Sorry! The boost leak test apparatus is still hooked up, so there is a tee open in the pic, but that would be connected to the vacuum line from the turbo. From left to right on the vacuum block is: BOV, EBC, cruise(?), fuel pressure reg, and wastegate. The driver's side valve cover still has the PCV going to the manifold, but its a brand new PCV. Just haven't gotten around to blocking it off and doing the catch can like yours.

 

Here is your vacuum leak right here. Where the filter is on your catch can. The reason being is because the driver side valve cover is still connected to the plastic upper plenum. Under idle and cruising the engine is sucking in air from that catch can breather.

 

@JustDSM . Follow along. This should help with the tuning.

Here is a quick test @MrMurse .

Disconnect the hose from the driver side valve cover, specifically where it connects to the intake. Cap the intake port. Test drive.

Ultimately, that driver side valve cover needs to be routed to the catch can as well.

 

Here is mine as an example.

 

Awesome. Think that explains the gurgling in my oil pan, or is my turbo seal blown?

 

It very likely does.

 

Let me know how it goes.

 

It went well! The only place leaking air is the MAF, which I'll be fixing. That being said, the original tuning problem still exists where the ST and LT fuel tables are pulling fuel, but the actual lambda values are much leaner than the commanded value.

 

One thing at a time and we'll get you sorted.

 

Just to be clear though, doing the test that I mentioned above did help, yes?

 

For sure. Can't really start tuning with leaks. Thank you again!

 

@Torspd I think today is the day, I've saved my pennies to get a new Garrett. I just wanted to pick your brain, again. What a/r is your turbine housing? I'm currently running a .58, which I'm guessing is pretty restricting for a 4.0L. I know its pretty dependent on the engine so I thought I'd see what you guys have.

 

Mine is a .98. On the larger side, but the smallest offered for this turbo.

If you can bump yours up between a .6x and .8x, that is where you want to be.