Cam gears for V6. Add power AND mpg

Is there any timeframe for another group buy on these?

 

Assuming proper installation- These should increase a trucks reliability.

• increased knock threshold leads to increased reliability.
• cooler combustion chamber due to exhaust gases not heating incoming air leads to a cooler running engine- heat kills engines

Why Toyota didn't do it this way to start? I can only speculate but I would wager it has to do with keeping the EPA happy.

 

I put you all down for GB5. How long it'll take to fill spots can be seen in the last 10 pages or so. but guestimating timeframe tells me usually every 2-3 weeks the Gb are full enough to do one.
I want around 10 committed buyers before I do a GB. I say around 10 because usually I start setting up for it around 8 members and a couple usually pour in last minute.

 

Updated the 1st post to help clarify install. Also added some great photos to show proper install and photos that show proper timing very well.

 

Perfect, thanks man!

 

Is it recommended to get the lower 160 or 170 degree thermostat with these?

 

Not really no. It just shouldn't affect the trucks running temps enough to be a reason to need a cooler thermostat. Speculating- but urd includes the thermostat with the ucon system to allow for even more advanced timing. Without the ability to monitor and tune for the cooler thermostat and if the system isn't over heating, I wouldn't say they are a needed thing

 

Just got around throwing these on. I have a friend that has his own shop so we decided to fire up the grill tear the valve covers along with a few beers.

Please check everything atleast 4 times if you got a few cold ones on you.

Thankfully a few vacuum lines needed replacing so we left that for the next day.

After replacing the lines we had problems starting and at the same time had a rattle on the passenger side. So no we had to take that valve cover off and it turns out the tensioner was loose and the starting issue was the cam sensor was not plugged in.... lol

So yeah... after all that was done we took it out for a drive and it feels peppy like the engine is happy like most have said here, revs feel a lot more responsive.

I mean it was a brief test and I can say it woke up the ol girl up. Nice investment in my books

Oh and thanks @mightytacoman for checkin in on my questions

 

So moral of the story is dont drink and tear your engine apart y'all had more than 4 beers haha

 

Morning y'all, I should be machining gears sometime before the end of the week with shipping possibly this week but most likely next week. Wanted to keep everyone posted.
@jack_thomas still waiting to hear back from ya, no word by noon tomorrow and I gotta offer your spot up to the next guy in line.

 

hey, just wanted to make a note here.. The part number above is showing for the 12+ Tacoma.



I was adding up some parts, and for the v6, Mcgeorge Toyota Online is showing the below part number (for my 2010) 17176-0P010:
Maybe because I dont have the secondary air injection?

 

Been driving on the installed gear for last 5 days. Definitely a difference in performance. The truck accelerates and idles smoother. It's like the engine is performing the same, but without trying as hard. I've been tracking my miles for the last 3 months so I'll report back in another 3 months with what I've (hopefully) gained in mpg.

My Tacoma is a 2015, so the valve cover removal instructions on page 1 didn't completely match. The URD instructions were spot on though, especially since we had to turn the crank nut to rotate the engine. Removing the cam bolts wasn't that bad with a 17mm off-set wrench, a floor jack pole as a cheater bar, and a strong little brother. Side note, pulling a cheater bar as hard as you can towards your forehead may result in a concussion or a variation of scope eye. The hardest part for us was removing the upper rear tab of the air intake manifold. We worked that tab so much that it broke and we had to suspend the air intake manifold with a bungee cord to get to the driver's side valve cover.

The only other hiccup was a broken valve cover bolt on the re-install of the valve cover. Another side note, concussion may result in over torquing. Took it to my local mechanic because I didn't have the tools to extract it. Cost me $100 ($80 for the extraction and $20 for a set of valve cover bolts from Toyota.) Sucks but at least things are all good now.

Both my brother and I were total novices to engine work. I'd say that patience and organization are your friends, and that the help from my @mightytacoman was crucial for us. A good man and a good product. Thank you.

 

Added to page one. I'm 99% sure they are the same thing/part but added to avoid any confusion.

 

Anyone want to part with their 17mm torque adapter cheaply? I'd rather fund someone on here, rather than Bezos.

Either that, or I buy

$45 Neiko 03324A Crowfoot Wrench Set 1/2" and 3/8” Drive, 15 Piece, Metric Crows Foot Wrench Sizes 8mm-24mm, Chrome-Moly Flare Nut Wrench Set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N7DHFK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

Ha! Sounds like a couple bags of peas and some cold brew hahas were necessary at the end of the night!

 

Little update.
All gears from gb4 have been machined and will be getting shipped out in a few days. Will pm everyone tracking info at that time

 

Au’ryte!

 

Finally got around to my install yesterday. Took awhile, but my 2013 DCLB fired right up first try with no CEL after all was said and done. Only 20 miles on her as of this morning, but there is a definitely a performance improvement, particularly in the mid range. Seems to be smoother and actually shift better, but that could just be me paying attention more closely. As to the install (solo):

1. Have 5 separate bins for bolts and parts for the five areas you'll remove; air intake, intake manifold, left valve cover, SAIS and right valve cover. This helps you keep track of your parts easily.
2. A cheap, 17mm Husky wrench with the box end cut off and a 2' piece of 3/4" galvanized pipe slipped over the handle makes the cam bolts super easy to remove. Got the 17mm wrench, 24mm wrench for the cam shaft, 22mm socket to crank the engine and the 8mm Allen drive for the manifold from Home Depot for under $20. Just cut the box end of the 17mm wrench off with a Sawzall as the 12 point end is what you want on the cam bolt.
3. Even though I could probably do it in 3 hours now that I know all that goes into it, it took me 5.5 the yesterday. Slow, methodical, keeping track of tools and parts, laying everything out so it goes back in correctly. If you block out 6 hours, you won't be rushed and give yourself time back if you happen to get it done in less time.
4. I elected to forgo the beer and stuck with a water and a Red Bull. You DO NOT want your senses skewed by a DFH 120 Minute IPA when putting all that shit back together. Check, recheck and then check again plus one more time to make damn sure everything is torqued, reattached or otherwise back to normal and that you don't have any extra nuts, bolts or parts lying around.
5. Touch base with MightyTacoMan the day before your install to make sure he's available. He gave me great piece of mind to be absolutely positive I had the gears on correctly.
6. $110 for the cams, $80 for all the gaskets, $10 for the Permatex, $20 for tools: Best $220 I've spent on the truck so far.

Damn glad I ended up doing this yesterday as I had almost talked myself out of it. It's a chore, but requires no special skills. You do, however, need to be a bit of a contortionist and have the dexterity of a locksmith at several points of the disassembly/install.

I'll follow up with a mileage/performance report in the coming months, probably after hunting season where I'll have a chance to measure cross country mileage.

 

@mightytacoman I plan on performing install next weekend. Will anything need to be done differently with SAI delete? Thanks in advance!

 

So I've never done this on a 2012+ myself. Perhaps @jgang or somebody else can chime in with the differences from the guide on page one