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COMPLETED 5th Gen 4Runner BBK upgrade for 2nd Gen Tacomas

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by nudavinci64, Aug 4, 2017.

  1. Sep 28, 2020 at 4:44 PM
    #321
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    Looked through all my boxes and didn’t see em so it looks like I’ll have to run to autozone then start
     
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  2. Sep 28, 2020 at 4:45 PM
    #322
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    Unless the ones from my old calipers would fit?
     
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  3. Sep 28, 2020 at 4:46 PM
    #323
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Empty Wallet Mod
    I think they should.
     
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  4. Sep 28, 2020 at 4:56 PM
    #324
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    Only one way to find out :fingerscrossed:
     
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  5. Sep 28, 2020 at 4:58 PM
    #325
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Empty Wallet Mod
    Fun fact: all these (OEM spec) brake calipers use the same pads. Might be already known in this thread.
     
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  6. Sep 29, 2020 at 9:50 AM
    #326
    eljedi68

    eljedi68 Well-Known Member

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    Kalaheo, HI
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    complete Long Travel Suspension built by DMZ: 3+ Control Arms by TC, Bed Cage, Denver Under Springs, Fox all around (Coilover & Bypass up Frt, 3.0 Bypass Rr). Full Glass front fenders and bedsides. Engine so far: TRD CAI, DT Headers, URD Y Pipe, Gibson Muffler. And a Sprint Booster. Sits on Toyo OC 35x12.5 on 17’s. Nitro Rear end and re-geared for 35’s (4.56). Goals: Flowed Heads, Cams, and Boost (SC) ! So far, so good
    The old ones will fit. I was kind of ADD and OCD’d out at this point on my build and just put them on.

    then I remembered the new ones and switched them out.

    the only difference is the New ones are slightly bigger and hold better; but either would work; all they do is help stop Chatter.

    so stoked for ya, can’t wait to hear about the test drive; your gonna trip out: pure firm braking and no Pulsing anymore

    shoots
     
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  7. Sep 30, 2020 at 9:00 AM
    #327
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    I don't like brake lines
     
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  8. Sep 30, 2020 at 9:16 AM
    #328
    eljedi68

    eljedi68 Well-Known Member

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    complete Long Travel Suspension built by DMZ: 3+ Control Arms by TC, Bed Cage, Denver Under Springs, Fox all around (Coilover & Bypass up Frt, 3.0 Bypass Rr). Full Glass front fenders and bedsides. Engine so far: TRD CAI, DT Headers, URD Y Pipe, Gibson Muffler. And a Sprint Booster. Sits on Toyo OC 35x12.5 on 17’s. Nitro Rear end and re-geared for 35’s (4.56). Goals: Flowed Heads, Cams, and Boost (SC) ! So far, so good
    100% here ya !

    I had a feeling my 2 short “Hard” lines were at their end and gonna be a pain... so part of my parts list pre build was 2 new ones.

    thank god I did: both were a major B%<^€ to remove and my drivers side snapped. Hardest part was getting the ends that hang off the Spindle and attach to my SS lines... I ended up have to heat them (the Banjos) up with a plumbers torch and penetrating oil; finally the nut let loose. Major PITA!

    Reassembly was a snap

    keep us updated

    shoots
     
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  9. Sep 30, 2020 at 4:34 PM
    #329
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    96800483-FAB6-44A4-9B6A-AFF29180EDC1.jpgMy (Hub assembly, bearing dust cover?) whatever it’s called looks different than all the others ive seen and can’t figure out how to access the wheel bearing
     
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  10. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:06 PM
    #330
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR нет войне

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    I think you just pry that cap off with a flathead screwdriver.
     
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  11. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:12 PM
    #331
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    That silver bit in the center?
     
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  12. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:27 PM
    #332
    eljedi68

    eljedi68 Well-Known Member

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    complete Long Travel Suspension built by DMZ: 3+ Control Arms by TC, Bed Cage, Denver Under Springs, Fox all around (Coilover & Bypass up Frt, 3.0 Bypass Rr). Full Glass front fenders and bedsides. Engine so far: TRD CAI, DT Headers, URD Y Pipe, Gibson Muffler. And a Sprint Booster. Sits on Toyo OC 35x12.5 on 17’s. Nitro Rear end and re-geared for 35’s (4.56). Goals: Flowed Heads, Cams, and Boost (SC) ! So far, so good
    That’s wild ,, I haven’t seen one like that before either: that’s where the Nut and Cotter-pin should be. Maybe some had to put in a make shift dust cover ?

    keep us posted.
     
  13. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:32 PM
    #333
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

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    Its because yours is a 2wd its all accessed from the back. No need to pry the silver cap off just loosen the 4 17mm bolts that attach it to the spindle.
     
  14. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:38 PM
    #334
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    THANK YOU! Just spent 20 mins hammering for nothing lol
     
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  15. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:54 PM
    #335
    eljedi68

    eljedi68 Well-Known Member

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    complete Long Travel Suspension built by DMZ: 3+ Control Arms by TC, Bed Cage, Denver Under Springs, Fox all around (Coilover & Bypass up Frt, 3.0 Bypass Rr). Full Glass front fenders and bedsides. Engine so far: TRD CAI, DT Headers, URD Y Pipe, Gibson Muffler. And a Sprint Booster. Sits on Toyo OC 35x12.5 on 17’s. Nitro Rear end and re-geared for 35’s (4.56). Goals: Flowed Heads, Cams, and Boost (SC) ! So far, so good
    Dana,, oh thank god,, easy easy now

    and sorry I didn’t catch that for ya, I’ve had 3 Toyota’s, but all were 4x4’s lol.

    cant wait for some pics and hear about your test drive

    shoots
     
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  16. Oct 5, 2020 at 12:33 PM
    #336
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    Had to stop working on it for a few days because of work and this thing is kicking my ass. I finished the drivers side no problem and love the look of everything. However, when i tried to move over to the passenger side, the hub assembly bolts will NOT come out. Ive stripped them pretty good and have tried every method i have at my disposal. I used an entire can of penetrating oil, a torch and the crc freeze-off spray, flare wrench, These bolts won't come off. Its hard because of the accessibility of the bolts so special sockets or an impact wont work. Anyone have any recommendations? At this point im willing to do anything to just get these bolts out. Want to try everything before i have to have the truck towed to a shop and make it their problem.
     
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  17. Oct 5, 2020 at 12:40 PM
    #337
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Have access to a welder or a friend that could weld a fat 5/8 or so nut on there? Grade 8 5/8 bolt and a long breaker bar would give you some more torque. I've used a mix of 50/50 acetone / dollar store atf as a good cheap penetrating oil with good results, just something to help besides having more torque on the bolt since it would suck to have the bolt break off.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2020
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  18. Oct 5, 2020 at 12:44 PM
    #338
    Pablo8

    Pablo8 Here!

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    OVT, 4.88, ADM, F&R ARB lock, KO2's, RWD L MOD
    Candle wax method ?
     
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  19. Oct 5, 2020 at 1:14 PM
    #339
    DanaPtTaco

    DanaPtTaco Never-ending problems

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    Torque isn’t a problem the bolt just keeps rounding. I’ll see if any of my friends is able to weld but I doubt it. Candle wax won’t work I don’t think since I don’t have access to any of the threads
     
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  20. Oct 5, 2020 at 1:21 PM
    #340
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    You aren't able to apply torque to the fastener if it's rounded. That's why a nut welded onto the rounded off head is suggested.
     
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