DIY Oil Change Poll - Stock Nylon Cartridge Filter

Thanks!

I think that is a good assumption considering the trend.

 

Liters! I like it.

I'm very ready to go metric. Way past time.



Ah! Still, the oil on my dipstick is tan and not loaded up when I have checked it just prior to the ToyotaCare changes.


I would highly recommend looking at @Woodrow F Call 's UOA thread. There are a couple other UOA threads also. Just something to consider.

 

Comparison of new vs used oil filter. First oil change. ~ 5000 miles.

 

What line of work are u in?

 

Military. I am a retired engineer. My grandfather and father were mechanics. I grew up in my father’s garage working on cars. I am very particular about taking care of my things.

 

I broke my wife’s RAV4 filter housing last night. That thing was too tight. Dealer has done the oil change since we got it 3 years ago. Oh well. We have a trip tomorrow so I’m going to buy whatever the dealer has. My Tacoma is going in for the fuel pump recall that’s why we ain’t taking that one.

 

Oh man. Double whammy!

You might take some pics along with the tool that you were using. Might get a deserved free one?

 

Well. I was being impatient and used an impact and broke the middle fin. I ended up pushing off the wall to get it off.

 

It sounds like you were hosed no matter what.

Still, it might be worth the effort for a free part? If it was me, I would give it a try. Gently.

 

I’ll try. But I highly doubt it.

 

I can finally vote in my own thread.

The cartridge was tighter than it should have been, but with just a bit more leverage, it came free.

The 40k work is in the books.

 

I didn't have any issues with the nylon housing aside from it being very tight on my first oil change. I added the aluminum housing because I could feel the nylon flexing while I was removing it. Probably not necessary but added piece of mind. Also love this filter style! Hope this helps!

 

After several LOF's I have only screwed it up once so far. I was chatting on the phone and half ass paying attention to what I was doing. I put the larger o-ring all the way down on the casing instead of up on the ridge where it belongs. I always leave the skid plate off and and start up the engine and check for leaks. It did not take long at all to find that leak. I was lucky that the local O Reilly's had 1, and only 1, filter in stock. I believe I bought someones personally ordered filter because that was the only Toyota OME on the shelf. Anyways, I always pay attention where the o-ring goes now.

 

Having done countless changes and miles on the nylon housing without issue, here's my take on the do's and don't:

Don't use an impact

Do use the proper cap wrench (MotivX or similar)

Don't use any longer drive extension than necessary

Do use a breaker bar 18/24 inch - it's easier to modulate the torque, it also reduces the linear shear applied

Do apply counter force at the breaker bar head to further reduce the linear shear

Don't apply any more force than needed to very slowly rotate the cartridge - the o-ring has a lot of drag, trying to remove it quickly applies unnecessary stress

Don't over tighten during installation - torque wrench to spec if that's your fancy, but all that is needed is to turn it slowly with a consistent force until it stops.

 

Good tips!

One to add. The torque spec is printed right on the cartridge.

 

I just did the 20k service on my Tacoma. I'm at 16k miles, but it's been almost a year and a half since the last oil change so I figured it was time. I had switched to the aluminum canister at my 10k oil change. It was a little tighter this time, but nothing crazy that a normal wrench couldn't handle.

I used the the fancy screw in canister drain this time and it was the cleanest oil change ever. I cut the silicone hose to sit right over my oil pan and let it drain while I gathered the rest of my tools.

$25 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Drain Tool Compatible with Toyota, Lexus and Scion Vehicles with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B087QQW3S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_j5n6Fb2J6959B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I switched back to the original nylon canister with this change. I'll keep the aluminum one as a spare, but probably won't need it.

 

I think the cartridge is fine, but having it facing down seems really stupid to me. Why not put it front and center in the engine bay facing up so you can easily swap the filter when needed? Then you can topsider the oil change and never have to crawl around under the truck.



BMWs do it this way, or at least the ones that were worth buying. I don't know about the pig nosed shit they sell today.

 

Because on the 3.5L when you unscew the cartidge oil comes out, if it was facing up it would be a total mess.

 

Yes.

Only had an issue on the original change, piece of cake since then (ten oil/filter changes)
I'm a firm believer in torque wrenches generally, but it isn't needed for a Tacoma oil filter change. The plastic (probably the aluminum as well) filter housing is sealed by the O-ring and the housing has a flange that acts as a stop limiter. Turn the housing until the flange makes contact and you feel the resistance increase ever so slightly and then stop. It ain't rocket surgery.

 

How so?