Adding a DRL circuit for 3rd Gen SR & SR5's without DRL LED in headlights.

Yes, that would be OEM style...

 

Got it, thanks. So basically your original circuit instructions, minus the low beam Add A fuse.

 

Only if you want to keep the DRl always ON @100%

 

Got it, thanks!

 

Another option if keeping the DRL input always @100%

 

@caribe makaira i was scoping the aux relay box getting ready to begin this project. I just wanted to confirm the proper way of removing this to access the bottom to add the 5 pin relay and wedge spade connectors to the batt chrg relay. Are you saying I just grab it and pull straight up? No tabs/pins? Just want to make sure I don’t break anything. Thanks

 

If you can get a small "crow bar" type tool or a large screw driver (cantilever) it'll be easier. Place a thin material between the fender and the bottom of box so you don't scratch the fender.




If done with only hands then slightly tilt away from the main box from the bottom as you pull up on it.

 

Thanks

 

Remember it's plastic...

 

I stumbled on this and am curious if there is a way to modify stock SR/SR5 electrical to work with TRD headlights and keep OEM functionality? I hear about harnesses that work but make you lose DRL functionality on the stalk and cause all cab lights/screens to dim.

 

Going to try this out this weekend. From what I can see looks pretty straight forward. I will post some pictures of what I do on the truck itself (not just diagrams). Very helpful thread BTW!!

 

If you go this route, your DRLs will be on anytime the truck is on. Then when the high beams are turned on, the DRLs turn off. If you don’t want the DRLs to turn off when the low beams are turned on, you would omit the adds a fuse portion of this.

 

I am looking to run the DRL with the stalk in DRL position. And 50% brightness when the low beam is powered. Is this not the function of this wiring?

 

Im not sure how that wiring would work, I’ll wait for @caribe makaira to respond. I’m setting mine up with Diode Dynamics halos, which will be 100% power for DRLs, but they also will dim themselves when another wire is connected to another power source; ie red wire to this circuit and then a white wire to the parking lights. This will give me 100% DRLs then 50% once power is also supplied by the parking lights.
This is all controlled by Diode Dynamics drives connected to the halos though.

 

So why is it you can’t take the DRL wire from the blinker (red/blue on stock SR5 DRL connector) and hook it up to the 100% power wire (red on new headlights) and use the signal from the low beam to the 50% wire (orange on new headlights) and then black wire on new headlights to ground

 

The DRL wire is the same as the turn signal. Every time you use your turn signal, the DRLs would start flashing. If trying to hook these up to TRD lights, you’d get the white DRLs flashing, which wouldn’t look good. You need to separate the DRL from the turn signal, hence this new circuit being created using the instructions in this thread.

 

Wouldn’t wiring it to this drawing result in the DRL on the TRD headlights to come on with ignition and not the DRL on the selector stalk?
If so why not just do an add a fuse on a switched ignition source and tap the existing headlight low beam for 50% power and ground to ground?

 

Yes, this is a separate circuit and relay which turns the DRLs on whenever the ignition is on. This is not connected to the stalk, but I can’t think of a time when you would drive without DRLs. This is the safest and correct way of wiring this up. You could tap a fuse to another source, say your windshield wipers, but that would put unnecessary load on another source.
BTW, the example I gave with 50% power is based off using Diode Dynamics halos only since they have separate drivers that give priority to the low power source, if both high and low are connected and receiving power at the same time.
Most people will use this thread to connect TRD headlights or LED headlights which require a separate DRL and turn signal wire. If you tap a separate source, the DRLs will stay on full brightness when you turn your headlights on. The OEM TRD and LED headlights don’t have a driver built in to dim the DRLs like the Diode Dynamics do. This circuit will allow those to have the white DRLs on when the ignition is on and then have them turn off when the headlights are turned on.
There is an easy way to do things and there is the correct way to do things. Adding a circuit to power the DRLs is the correct way to do it.

 

Wired everything up to the drawing with the exception of wiring off the low beam fuse signal to the relay and then directly to the orange wire for the new LED headlights. I also used an add a fuse off a switched ignition circuit and a chassis ground instead of the tapping the existing relay.
Everything works perfect. 100% LED brightness with ignition (DRL does not control LED, ignition on does). When put into low beam on the selector stalk the LED dims to 50%. Blinker bulb still illuminates in DRL mode which actually looks pretty good too.

I got the relay at Oreilly’s; part# 2DR1066
Switched ignition: Relay terminal 30 (common)
LED high (red wire): Relay terminal 87a (Normally closed)
Ground: Relay terminal 85 (coil)
Low beam add a fuse: Relay terminal 86 (coil) (double wire before relay and wire to orange wire on new LED headlights)

I ran the wires out of the relay box along with the other factory wires in the wire loom and taped everything up. All closed up tight and looks factory for the most part.

 

If you don't mind the DRL turning off when the blinker is on (only on the side that the blinker is on. So if you turn on your left turn signal, the right DRL stays on), I can explain how to do it totally plug and play.