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Home Improvement Today?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Hotdog, Jul 28, 2008.

  1. Oct 8, 2020 at 8:47 AM
    T Fades

    T Fades Well-Known Member

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    I would let the stain dry and cure at least a day before throwing the poly. I've heard if you don't let the stain cure it can bubble the poly.
     
  2. Oct 8, 2020 at 9:08 AM
    brow

    brow Well-Known Member

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    All right Oz, got a scenario to run past you, it makes sense in my head, but never tried it in the real world. the garage wall is a hip roof with very little weight, stick built in the 70’s. Instead of fixing the foundation, abandon it and bust it down below grade. put in 3 piers 4’ out from the garage, demo the existing wall, extend the rafters to that plane, header it off, rebuild my wall and roof and pour a new slab. I get a bigger garage, and don’t have to pay a mason 20,000 when I can do the carpentry work.

    151D175A-A437-4EE3-BDCD-B8EB5E2CEE55.jpg
    265960CA-10EA-4B1E-BA79-023154D7B0B8.jpg
     
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  3. Oct 8, 2020 at 9:45 AM
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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  4. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:39 AM
    Sacrifice

    Sacrifice Motorcycle Goon

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    So according to the levelquick it says over plywood subfloor it requires metal lathe and minimum 1/2" pour. Thatd be very expensive.

    Or does your experience just say pour it on and level?
     
  5. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:44 AM
    megillet

    megillet Resident Badass

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    It needs the lathe. Yes its expensive, but when done right, it comes out fantastic. This was discussed maybe ten pages back, someone else asked and I gave some detailed replies.
     
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  6. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:48 AM
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    For reference...

     
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  7. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:16 AM
    Sacrifice

    Sacrifice Motorcycle Goon

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    Thanks!
     
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  8. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:49 AM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Hip rafters would stay at current location and then extend the sidewall jacks to a lower wall ?
     
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  9. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:50 AM
    308savage

    308savage Well-Known Member

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    You start watching one garage door spring and damn if the other side doesn’t break first. I called a local company to fix it, I’ve got mowing and leaf blowing to get done.


    088031A2-AE17-4A14-B9E5-E2E589F68D15.jpg 4845A38D-9D1B-4B30-8181-77BAB6F9733F.jpg
     
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  10. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:51 AM
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    Now you know why replace in doubles
     
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  11. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:52 AM
    308savage

    308savage Well-Known Member

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    I would have, but I didn’t feel like dealing with that stuff.
     
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  12. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:55 AM
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    I wouldnt either...that looks scary
     
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  13. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:56 AM
    Drainbung

    Drainbung Somedays you are the show....

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    Fortunately they had the cable strung through the spring so it doesn't turn into a projectile. My last place wasn't done correctly, the guys replacing the doors with upgrade insulated models pointed it out to me.
     
  14. Oct 8, 2020 at 12:12 PM
    brow

    brow Well-Known Member

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    correct, and the more I looked at it, it would make sense to actually put the new piers/posts directly under the 2' overhang so I don't have to do any weird fancy soffit work at the corners and my roofline stays untouched.
     
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  15. Oct 8, 2020 at 1:03 PM
    308savage

    308savage Well-Known Member

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    They being me and a couple of family members! But the cables will be done properly this time, not what my dad and uncle push for!
     
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  16. Oct 8, 2020 at 1:11 PM
    mCat

    mCat Well known member.....lol member

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    Why not pour a new foundation along the old one about 12” out or so and just bump your wall out 12”. Headers and everything can stay the same size and you’re just simply moving the load onto the new foundation instead? Span is a bit greater so check to be sure the framing can span the extra space. Seems like it would be ok to just do well into the existing slab to tie it all together.
     
    Drainbung likes this.
  17. Oct 8, 2020 at 1:19 PM
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    The can I used said 1 hr, I gave it 3, nice humidity and temp so I have no reason to believe everything won't hold up well, the poly looks good as of now
    :fingerscrossed:
    I'm in the middle of taping for paint :frusty:
     
  18. Oct 8, 2020 at 1:29 PM
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    if it was me I would crib up existing roof framing with temporary beam , remove old foundation work and pour new wall in same location , doesn't seem worth it to me to extend slab etc to get 2'
     
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  19. Oct 8, 2020 at 1:56 PM
    Knute

    Knute Well-Known Member

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    Agree with OZ-T. But need to add something with the new wall......water control, weeping tile, sump pump, water proof the foundation.

    If not, then its just a matter of time before the problem returns.
     
  20. Oct 8, 2020 at 2:16 PM
    brow

    brow Well-Known Member

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    The slab has to go regardless, the failing block caused it to crack and displace, so another 50sqft is pretty minimal at that point. The water issue has been resolved, gutters have been rerouted to the storm sewer, neighbors sump pump was rerouted by me when it was empty and up for sale last winter. I'm just pissed i didn't catch the extent of the damage during the inspection, their temporary patch job and strategically placed landscaping covered it all. Live and learn.

    In the end I would probably spend as much on piering/engineering fees/lumber as i would to replace the block, we'll see what the rest of the estimates come in at.
     

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