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109K Coolant Change

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Knute, Oct 9, 2020.

  1. Oct 9, 2020 at 6:20 PM
    #21
    ARB1977

    ARB1977 It’s a beaut Clark

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    Black TRD Fj Cruiser wheels, TRD catback exhaust.
    Thanks man. I’ll be doing my first change here soon. 97K on my 15.
     
  2. Oct 9, 2020 at 7:53 PM
    #22
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Yup did my 2013 with right at 100k miles this past dec 2019. Original coolant looked fantastic. But peace of mind for 30 bucks was well worth it for another 100k n 6 years.
     
    SR-71A likes this.
  3. Oct 10, 2020 at 4:17 AM
    #23
    sgtnewundies

    sgtnewundies Well-Known Member

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    Eric
    Florida, Citrus County
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    Working on it now....UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    After 5 years or 100,000 miles you should change it at half that interval there on out. You can do a simple drain and refill with the proper coolant, zerex or toyota.
     
  4. Oct 10, 2020 at 4:31 AM
    #24
    tonykarter

    tonykarter Crappie Savant

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    Pine tree air freshener
    Safety wire those drains while you are in there. Shit happens. If you let it.
     
  5. Oct 10, 2020 at 4:42 AM
    #25
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Kirk
    Central Michigan
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    Reserected from the dead.
    You are doing way more than most. You are fine with your calculations.

    The engineers that developed these power trains didn't plan on us owning these trucks past 10 years, so they have no data supporting long term ownership.

    Dump the rad and refill. Do it a second time like you said and you will be doing the best job you can do.

    Hint: don't bother with the drain valve. Pull the bottom drain hose and be done in ten minutes,including refill. Wear eye protection if you can't do this by feel.
     
    B Dog likes this.
  6. Oct 10, 2020 at 6:50 AM
    #26
    Knute

    Knute [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is the maintenance task for today.

    I will try to access the block drains.....if not, then I will use the proposed process in post #1 to achieve the results in post #13.

    Thanks for the tips and hints.
     
  7. Oct 10, 2020 at 5:42 PM
    #27
    Knute

    Knute [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok.....well has turned into a PITA.

    Radiator drained without issue. Accessed RH block drain, removed splash guard, place a tube to drain into a container, 10 mm socket+extensions, went lefty loosy......no loosy. Not even gonna attempt the LH block drain. Plan B is the serial dilution method as detailed. You know, it takes about 2 hours for the engine to cool..... anyhow. Tomorrow, I continue the process, 5 more quarts to cycle through.

    While poking around in the engine bay, I noticed the radiator top had a lot of fore/aft movement. Hmmmmm...... more inspection. Great, just friggin' great. One of the mount bolts is missing and the other is loose. The loose one was loose because the "nut" was missing. I did get lucky, the missing "nut" was wedged in the body framework under the battery. Well, I guess this is a good find. I should be able to eliminate a squeak/rattle and possibly prevent a failure. I only need 1 bolt to fix this.

    Anyone know what size that bolt is? I know I can remove the remaining one to measure, but I'd like to avoid that step. It was a bit of a bugger to install.
     

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