COMPLETED 5th Gen 4Runner BBK upgrade for 2nd Gen Tacomas

Mis-read your post, asking friends rn if any of them are able to weld

 

Copious amounts of heat and penetrating fluid will make sure the new greater amount of torque don't break off the bolts in your spindle - if / when you get them out use anti-seize in there for easier maintenance next time.

 

Any luck ?

pretty sure your gonna have to weld on a Nut or weld a make shift Breaker Bar

keep us posted

 

I'm gearing up to do this too. Tacoma brakes have the shims (for lack of a better word) that go between the calipers and the pads. Do the 4Runner brakes need these too? I noticed they aren't included with Hawk pads, nor are they included with the calipers. Thanks in advanced.

 

Oem pads require them - aftermarket pads do not.

 

https://www.toyotaguru.us/sequoia-2...-must-be-replaced-together-with-the-pads.html

 

So my passenger side brake hardline threads are stripped so I got a new hardline to replace it and I have the same problem on one of the rears. But, I don’t wanna have to replace the entire rear hardline. I plan on getting 12” rear kings eventually (~4” more travel) so I got 4” extended brake lines. Would I be able to just cut the fitting off the hardline and put a new one on without risking damaging my new ss line when at full droop? So I’d be losing ~1” of hardline

 

Which fitting needs to be replaced - the one at the wheel cylinder?

 

The one where the new ss brake line connects at the top.

 

So you'll re-flare the line and use the extended line to compensate for the shortened hard line?

Just make sure to droop the suspension and make sure you're not stretching the soft line - if you're a little short, just sell it and buy a new longer one from G and J Aircraft or similar shop that make any length line for any kind of fitting.

 

Well I got the extended lines because I eventually plan on getting 12” kings. I just don’t know if losing that 1” of hardline is going to damage my ss lines when the kings are at full droop since they would be 1” “shorter” in a sense

 

I bought new rear hard lines for this exact reason. Installed the front stainless lines with no issues during the T4R caliper install. Went to do the back and can’t turn either of the nuts up near the spare tire... both were rusted to hell and seized. Haven’t gotten around to installing them or the rear stainless lines yet but whenever I need to bleed the brakes again I’ll do it.

 

Do you know of any write ups or YouTube videos for it? I tried looking but couldn’t find one. Replacing the rear hardlines is the best solution but I have a feeling it’s going to be extremely difficult

 

Shouldn’t be that hard. They run across the rear axle and into the back of the drums.

But, we may be talking about different hard lines because I was mistaken in my previous post. I can get the upper nuts loose (near the bed, beside the spare tire), it was the lower nuts (mounted to the rear axle) on the soft lines that stripped. That’s why I bought new hard lines from there into the drums. My plan is to essentially replace everything from that upper connection to the wheels.

 

Ah yea we’re talking about different hardlines. I can’t find anything on replacing the upper hard lines, I just have to go under the truck and see what it entails

 

I had the same problem and it was a PITA. I tried cutting and reflaring but ended up having to lower the gas tank and replace both lines.

 

YOU HAVE TO LOWER THE GAS TANK? F$&@

 

Yes, the lines are secured by plastic clips along the inside of the frame rail behind the gas tank. I had just filled my tank, too. Luckily I had a hydraulic table cart at work to lower it down enough to access the brake line clips.

 

I think my trucks gonna have to be towed to a shop then cause I just don’t have the means to do that. Hopefully they can find a way to just remove the rubber line. and not have to replace all the hardlines

 

Finished!