Long Travel BS Thread

If you build the whole truck yes. You’re at the beginning of a long long road. No big deal as long as you’re focused.

I’d take some night classes in welding.

 

Put that $900 in a safe spot for saving towards building the rear end. Until you build the rear to out perform the front, you won’t have any need for front bypasses.

Like someone said earlier, a well tuned coilover will perform better than mystery valved coilover and bypass. Just ask @Coot83 how his and my truck compare with his front bypasses But we’re slowly working on dialing in his setup and when he’s faster than me, I’ll be forced to get bypasses

 

It’s up to how quickly you prefer to have the truck looking good or running good.

I’ve been putting time and work into my truck almost 4 years but it’s my project - some guys like doing it that way some don’t so make sure you’re having the time of your life and it’ll be fine.

 

Ya man your right imma just pass on those bypasses bc they are a mystery i have 0 clue or info about them tbh i’m not very familiar with the valving etc dont even know what any of that means i thought maybe if i bought them & send them to get tuned they’d be good but if they are in no need for them & i can just dial these 2.5’s then screw it i’ll save the $900 & throw it in for a rear cage instead

 

Might be able to find some good deals on bypasses. King is usually there

 

Haha your tag game is getting epic! Sadly I need an SC to really compete but yep tuning makes everything either work or just look pretty.

 

Looks like this is already answered but I agree with @Dalandser and @snowsk8air2

It takes a pretty built truck to justify the need of having a bypass setup, especially if your rear is going to be underbuilt for some time. Put that money elsewhere until you really need the bypass dampening. A well tuned moderately built truck will outperform most people's desires.

 

I bought bypasses on the front just because leadtimes are forever right now and didnt want to deal with waiting later. I do not have plans to do the rear till next year. Agree with what you guys say that the rear the work should get done for front bypasses to even make sense. So i got em for looks the next couple months.lol

 

I mean, if you have the expendable cash than more power to you. You can gain a lot from running bypasses up front (washboards), you'll just be limited by the rear setup. Cost doesn't seem to be the primary concern for you though so you can get away with it. lol

 

Yeah. Looking back though i should have bought pieces of the future rear set up instead. Camburg 3.5 on the way!!

 

What are you doing for the rear?

 

Looking at a couple sua kits but I should do it right and 4 link. If i can get Kyle and Steven to help me with the bed cage and link install its almost cheaper.

 

If it's even a question: bite the bullet and do a 4-link.

Signed,
The guy with an expensive and complicated leaf swap, and 4-link plans.

 

If you can relocate emissions equipment go for it. You look like you enjoy crawling though? 3 link could be your best bet.

 

I need to decide what I'm building the truck for, but I want to do both crawling and go fast. I'll probably do a short course setup, not a TT style, just to keep some break over angle.

 

You are right! Ive been dicking around with this mid travel shit for years and shouldnt wasre that time with long travel. Get the best shit and do it once.

 

Interested to see someone actually do this

 

I'm thinking of going that route as well.

I would love a link in the rear but don't want massive trailing arms. I play in the rocks way too much.

 

@Tacoma1192 and the WAR-Fab gang have done it. I forget their username though.

 

Dirt King and Camburg have done it on F150s and other full size, and a jeep with a coil over conversion is basically the same thing.

Just a matter of balancing pinion angle with travel with breakover angle to pick your poison of tradeoffs. It can't be any harder than designing and building a J-arm based IFS and spindle from scratch.