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As @snowsk8air2 was hinting towards, there are a lot of variables to consider when answering that question. How's your truck built? Do you have a lot of weight up front (bumper, skids, etc.)

From my experience, a lot of people over spring their trucks to compensate for poor valving but there's a lot of preference in deciding which direction to go.

Edit: I just re-read and saw you stated stock weight. Too much spring IMO.

 

I was leaning towards telling him it was probably too high, but the internal bypass will help with piston flow, 0 added preload might be the perfect ride height, and no one has actually gone out and tested the JD kit as far as I know so it could be perfect. I back my original recommendation of drive the truck as is and decide what he does and doesn’t like about it. A spring change is easy for these shocks as it shouldn’t require a compressor to swap them.

 

I don't disagree with that statement. Simply contributing to the conversation. The kit will be a huge difference in ride quality and most would likely be very happy with the performance regardless of which springs on used.

It would be ideal to have both spring rates available or take some actual load measurements with the JD kit as I believe you're correct in saying nobody has really taken good data on it yet.

 

Yeah I could try them out and see, ill PM you.

well I’ll be throwing it on next month and I’ll let you know. And @Coot83 ill take them and try them out if you feel like shipping them. For some reason people are afraid to send cause covid.

 

Doesn't fuckin matter what the valving is if the truck doesn't have enough weight for a 700 pound spring. You'll never get the small chatter out. My truck has a 2" kit and 16" 550 pound springs on an 8" shock. The truck is 6,200 pounds loaded, with 51/49 weight distribution.

The whole idea behind getting the smoothest ride possible is to run the lightest spring possible to hold the truck at ride height. Then use the valving to actually tune based on driving habits. Based on the fact that it is an IBS, that's more reason to run light spring with more compression adjustments than a standard coilover shock.

If you're crawling, the 700 spring will stop the front end from ever seeing any up travel in the rocks.

 

Yeah I would!

 

How much preload are you running to get your desired ride height?

 

I ran 700# springs on a stock weight front end (2nd gen). It was pretty rough at first, but the springs settled a bit. Folks are right, though, they are too stiff unless you plan on adding weight up front in the near future. If not, I'd suggest sticking to 600s or so

 

Well that’s a very extreme take on the basics of tuning.

That stated, I run 700’s with preload close to coil bind and they do flex quite nicely. Could it flex better, sure, but it works for me perfectly

 

coil length on shock with preload set is 14 3/4” so 1 and 1/4” preload.

The whole idea behind this way of setting it up, is so that the spring just carries the weight of the truck, while the shock does all the dampening. Because you can’t tune a stiff spring softer. Shock turning and set it up is all based on option of what you feel and like. I had 700s on the truck before, and it was miserably rough. Sure, the big hits it was fine but everything in between was rough as hell. So I lightened the spring rate, added more too end compression and it solved all those ride quality complaints I had. Plus, I can actually use the front end travel in the rocks now.

 

All I’m saying, is no one has really used the kit in question so why not give the springs a try. It’s a unique kit with unique geometry compared to the others available. Springs are an easy thing to change so if he doesn’t like it then oh well, but if he does, then he could save some time and ~$200. Personally I love my 700’s and think it rides awesome on everything other than washboard, but that’s what airing down is for. Good flex, good ride height, and great on hard hits.

 

mmmmmmmm.... yes and no. The geometry is different between kits which can alter the load forces applied per corner but I don't see it being drastic enough to justify needing that much more spring rate. The kits are relatively close in width and the upper mounts are still stock.

A lot of guys are "happy" with 700# springs because they don't know any better. Not saying that's your case but you have an LT kit that doesn't like washboards? Aren't you running a bypass up front?

I'd be curious to hear your feedback if you went down in spring rate and adjusted your valving to do the dampening work for those hard hits.

 

No front bypasses for me. And like I said, I’m almost at coil bind with the 700’s to get ride height at 60/40. Valving is pretty aggressive on the compression side things for those hard hits. And hard hits are my trying to keep up with +4.5”/rear linked trucks with bypasses all around.

Edit: and the washboard comment refers to not aired down and referencing one of the nasty reservation roads out here.

 

You're fully caged though, yeah?

 

Full cage and full armor. Armor isn’t the heaviest, but not the lightest either. Probably 500lbs of added sprung weight in total. Or the same as 2-3 adult passengers.

 

There isn't a single ideal for any truck once you get to this forum - changes in weight, track width, inboard / outboard shock angle, sprung weight, unsprung weight, tire size, tire pressure, tire sidewall strength, terrain type, driving style, preferred handling characteristics etc. will factor into everyone's setup being "ideal."

I had 600lb springs on my 4 banger reg cab +2 before I got rid of it and I think 500lb w/ no preload would have gotten me the height I wanted to be at for a truck that weighed 3900 lbs fully loaded and I didn't mind the way 600's handled, just too much ride height. Guys with custom setups re-tune and experiment with various springs even after 15 years using the same basic truck. Everyone just needs to try enough layouts until finding whatever works best to their preferences.

That said, if you have new springs and you think you'll be better off with another rate, send them to King sans scratches so you can hopefully get a free replacement. I bought new / preowned coilovers for my 98 with springs for a full size and could swap out when I brought them in.

 

Fox 2.5 8" coil over shocks.
SOLD

Used, in working condition.
Remote resivours, hoses lightly abraded from rubbing spring. No issues.

18" 600lb springs.

Light wear and tear on shocks, but overall function fine. No leaks. Valved very light, were used with bypass shocks. You may need to re valve these. New seals and oil 2 years ago, have been on the shelf for 1 year.

14" from upper eye end of body/dust cap.
8" stroke

These are a little long for 1st gen technically, but will work. My current shocks are the same length. I used the Wheelers bump stop on the frame. You could also cut the coil bucket and move the mount up for max travel. Might be fine on 2nd and 3rd gen trucks as is. These have worked well for me.

Located in Phoenix



SOLD

 

@snowsk8air2

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGSWJ6OFsFa/?igshid=1oclwb7kbmn3j

 

Thanks for looking out but issues with spindles and steering are taking away any bypass funds for at least a few months. Otherwise I’d be jumping on that ASAP.

 

Forgot that the credit card usage is in effect lol