Subjective question on trade in situation re:Frame recall

Don’t spray fluid film over rust. Clean up what’s there, spray with your paint of choice and then coat.

 

I had no idea. Thanks.
At this point I feel it'd be like polishing a turd.

 

You made a firm statement. What do you expect?

 

Jesus man. Firm statement?
I know a lot less than probably everyone on this site. I am making a statement about the product as to what it didn't do in my case. Someone else pointed out that you don't apply over rust. I didn't know this. As I said, I am looking for opinions. I am not here to call anyone, or anything out.

 

No worries, relax. Everyone that uses FF has great success with no rust. You were the first. People have been using this before global warming. I just thought you were a troll or something.

 

Put a hammer to those rust spots I bet one of them gives

 

Although not fiscally responsible, if I lived in Maine or any salt use state, I think I would lease my vehicles.

 

This statement leads me to believe you already know what you want to do.
If you really think the truck is a turd, then get rid of it.
Nothing anyone here says, can make you change the way you feel about it.
Life’s too short, there is no need to worry about something you don’t have to worry about.
If you can afford a better truck, and that’s what you want, get it.

Can you afford a better truck?

 

lol You guys south of the rust belt see some brown/orange tint on the frame rail paint and panic.


@homerayvaughan I know this looks like a nightmare, but a Saturday with a wire wheel, self-etching primer, duplicolor undercoating, and fluid film would do wonders. It won't be like new, but that process and repeating it in the spring each year or two can help a truck live a long life in the rust belt. If you have a gravel driveway, spray a bunch of fluid film or another rust inhibitor inside the boxed sections of the frame. This first time is going to be the most work, each spring I hit any browning spots with the wire wheel on a die grinder, self-etching primer, and undercoating; it only takes a hour or two. Then, a day or two later I'll give'r a spray outside and inside of the frame rails.

Keep the truck for a few years, get it paid off, save up some and get what you want. But it takes the pressure off of thinking that the frame is going to fail any minute. Its not. Knock the heavy stuff off and get to cleaning and coating. The truck isn't going to tank in value either. If you can get it paid off in a 12-18 months you are still going to get within $1000 of what you got offered now. You'll have twice the trade in value as you do now towards your next truck and pay less tax on the transaction.

edit:
The C section of the frame is the weakest and it is all under the bed. The rest of the frame is boxed. You can do what a co-worker did with his Silverado. Get two buddies over on a Saturday, roll it up on ramps, and lift the bed off and everybody gets a section of frame and get it all coated in POR15 on Saturday with a few pizzas and a case of beer. Sunday hose it down with fluid film and have them stop over and lift the bed back on. Drive it to work on Monday.

 

We learn how to deal with it. We are jealous you guys don't have to deal with the rust, but the sun you guys get can be just as brutal in other ways that we don't have to deal with here. The earth wants to consume everything we have extracted from it, it just does it in different ways and rates; it'll all get there eventually.

 

Florida... for the win.

OP, sounds like you want a new/er truck. None of us know your financial situation, but play around with numbers at dealerships to see what they'll offer you. Only you can decide what's right for you... Not Dave Ramsey lol

Cheers