2004 taco 4cyl won’t start battery is not dead

Got her stuck 2 days ago and the from bumper was barely above water. But she started just fine getting rescued and on the way home. However, since then every time I go to start her up she lags a little before the starter really gets to actually starting it. Today instead of turning over she just clicks. The lights are working and the starter is clicking so the battery isn’t dead. (Video attached) I have a brand new deep cycle battery for my winch and had 2 trucks try to jumpstart so I’m pretty sure the battery isn’t the issue

EDIT: I forgot to mention, my buddy reminded me tonight, that once I was out of the mud pit on the way out there was one particular mud hole on the trail that was going to be a problem. There was no way around and so I went on the sides of it as much as I could. But she was deep probably had water over the hood momentarily. As I did not want to get stuck again I was going a little too fast and she bogged on me and completely stalled out, but at that point, I was already through the deepest point and on dry land. So I waited a couple of minutes and she started right up no problem other than a little smoke and she was idling low.

 

It is possible now things drying out to much dirt in the starter Solenoid to make a good connection .

Other then reading voltage to the starter solenoid while attempting to crank I would pull and clean the starter New Contacts and Plunger might be a good move while it is out.

 

sounds like U soaked the starter

IF water did NOT get into the engine start front bumper low....... Check EVERYTHING that got WET !!!

ANY 12 volt connection to ANY component could be corroding

contact cleaner.................WD40 ...............etc

 

solenoid contacts worn

 

Thanks, I am going to try and do that tonight/tomorrow. I got her started the other day but tonight she failed on me again. I just have to go get my tools and start figuring it out again.lol. Does anyone have any good step-by-step videos on how to remove and clean the starter solenoid?

 

Before pulling the starter, make sure everything thing is good and clean.
Check all connection, if the problem still continues move to the starter.

https://youtu.be/qwokxzjlYcQ

 

I cleaned it (I have not replaced the contacts) and reinstalled the starter... it still won't start, the starter just clicks one time. I wonder if the starter is even bad because if it clicks doesn't that mean it has power to it? or is it possible that it's just not engaging and turning over? The price difference between the rebuild kit (includes new contacts with no plunger) and a remanufactured starter is marginal so I think I may just buy a new starter. I'm not really sure what else it could possibly be

 

The main wire (big one) from the batter to the starter.
Are you getting 12v to it?
If you are, it’s “probably” the starter.
There is a chance that the battery wire has corroded inside the the sheathing.

You can do the blow test at your discretion.
This will help further isolate if it IS a Starter problem.
I personally, don’t always do it. I should, but I don’t.


There my be a voltage drop causing the issue.

Here is a How to preform a drop test video.
https://youtu.be/eeuE2Itur0g


FWIW, I suspecting a starter issue.

 

thank you I will try that tomorrow

 

No problem.
BTW, at one time many auto parts stores could test a starter if you brought it in to them.
They still may do this?

I know it doesn’t help you now, but it could have saved some time when you had it off.

 

Did you clean the battery terminals and connectors well? Starters need lots of current. Measuring 12V does not ensure you can drive current.

 

I about to start working on the truck now....

also, did the video work that I attached on the first thread?

 

I do not see a video in your first post.

 

that explains why no one commented on it ..lol

Either way, I finally got her started today after getting a new starter delivered last night. I went to start the engine and still just the simple click (it did sound more precise and cleaner of a click.) ugh...I was ready to give up at this point. Started packing up and calling it quits for the day. I put the tire back on and was pushing her back in the driveway when I decided to go ahead and try starting her one last time. miraculously, it started to turn over but not completely...so close though. This was a great sound, I put the hood up checked everything for the 3rd time and the 4th time ..lol, turned the ac off, radio off, and headlights off .Anything that would draw amps/voltage away from the starter. Turned the key and sure as shit she started right up!! Man, that took entirely way too long, but I changed and rebuilt my first starter. I was proud!

Correct me if I am wrong but that leads me to believe that the reason why I was able to start her last week after the rescue and before the week-long starter issue was because something was up with the cable as TnShooter said:

which would explain why she only starts, when everything that may draw power from the battery while starting, is shut off. I will have to get a new wire harness or somehow extend the existing wire with better quality and lower gauge wire...Thank you Tnshooter!!!

and thank you to everyone else that commented with the advice I needed. I SERIOUSLY COULD NOTY HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU GUYS...I surely do appreciate it!!!

 

Does it start up fine now?
Or do you still have to have all the other accessories off?
This is important to know.

The starter wire either has the capacity to carry current or it doesn’t.
Turning other accessories off should not affect the current capacity of the wire.
This kind of leads me to believe you have a different issue other than the wire. (size and condition)

Extending the wire that’s on there now will not help.
It will only help if the if the new wire is larger the entire length.
If you have a wire with 2 different sizes, it’s limited to the smaller of the 2 sizes.

@Jimmyh What are your thoughts my friend?

 

Well here is my anecdotal experience:
I personally have never seen a starter cable go bad without and external cause such as damage from operator error or shorting causing it to burn or damage the insulation. I have read reports of some having issues with corrosion getting into the starter cable between the strands and causing issues.

Now that is not to say that corrosion will not cause issues as it definitely can and will.

You are absolutely correct that adding a larger piece of wire would be pointless. In order to increase the current capacity you would need to replace the entire cable with a larger cross sectional cable for the entire length.

His issue of the single click ( which I assume is the starter relay and not the starter solenoid ) is indicative of either a voltage loss in the small wires between the starter relay and the solenoid coil ( not enough power to pull in the solenoid plunger ). Or a voltage loss in the main cable causing a slow starter motor.

The best way to Check is with a multimeter. As stated by TnShooter check for 12 VDC at the Starter large cable while starting the engine.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-Use-Voltage-Drop-to-Troubleshoot-the-Starter-System

Also check the small wires that energize the solenoid. They could also have a damaged area causing a loss of voltage and an inability to properly close the solenoid contacts.

If he still has to turn off accessories in order to start the engine he still has a problem in the starter circuit. It should still start with everything turned on.

 

Thanks @ Jimmyh.
That’s pretty much my thinking as well.
I too, haven’t seen a bad starter wire either.
It’s usually the connection AT the terminal of the battery.
(Which is NOT what I’m implying is the problem, just my experience with a bad starter wire)

 

"It’s usually the connection AT the terminal of the battery."

Yes this...

 

So it wouldn't start again yesterday and of course, I was on the trails with my dog and no tools except a leatherman and screwdriver. I MacGyvered it and while doing so I realized that the ground from the battery to the blot on the chassis (2 very small black wires) was not attached. I figured that was an easier and quicker fix so I fixed that and it started up after a little fudging. But thinking about it now, I believe that was a separate issue cause all accessories and chimes were working just fine so power was getting to where it needed to be, cause the starter was clicking.

side note: the clicking is now 2 clicks once when I turn the key to start the engine and the second when I release the key

I am finally able to have time to work on it now. IO am going to put a multimeter to it and see what the cause maybe I will reply back to let you know. thank you

Also, the reason why I was saying I need to replace with a larger wire was that the only wire I had when this started (before the long week of messing with it and after the mud pit rescue) was a battery terminal that I bought from Walmart, maybe 6 inches long that split into two 14 gauge wires on the positive side so I soldered on the 10 or 12 gauge fuse box wire and the other to the main 8 or 10 gauge main wire coming from the engine, starter, etc.. so I wanted to match the wire size. I did have some previous understanding that the current can't pass through from smaller to larger and increase the current draw. That the current will stay at the same size as the smallest wire.
(GAUGE SIZE IS MY BEST GUESS THEY COULD BE COMPLETELY WRONG). My point I was trying to make was that the fuse box and main engine wire is larger than the battery terminal wire size that I installed)

Another thing is that the reason why I was thinking about getting a new wire harness or extending it a few inches is that about 6 months ago I was messing with the option of adding 2 batteries and the main wire was too long so I cut it back about 3 or 4 inches and soldered a new ring terminal, now with only 1 battery the main wire is to short so I had to unclip the main wire harness at the first nearest spot (which happens to be right above the starter) to free up just a little bit of slack to reach the battery terminal without putting too much stress on the wire connections below. lesson learned. NEVER CUT THE MAIN WIRE...Well I figured it was a temporary issue, since then I added a 4 gauge wire maybe 4 or 5 inches from the main wire harness to the battery terminal.

I hope that all make sense I didn't think it was relevant but now that this starter issue is causing more of a headache than expected I am starting to realize that it is very relevant. If there is anything I can or need to explain further please let me know...Thanks again

 

I don’t exactly follow what you have done.
It sound like there has been some cutting and splicing of different wires.
The best I can do is this.

1. It would be better to have 1 single continuous LARGE wire to the battery.
2. A good battery, with more than or equal to the recommended Cranking Amps rated for your truck.
3. Good solid clean connections at ALL mounting locations.

The diagram below is for 1999 Tacoma.
It is NOT for a 2003, but maybe be the same?
This is just for a visual aid to show an example of what you should be focused on.

1. Make sure the battery is GOOD. Just because it has 12.7v doesn’t mean it’s good.
https://youtu.be/COJr7OB23Hw


2. Preform a voltage drop test between the starter and Battery.
Yes the video is long, but you need to understand what Voltage drop is.
Otherwise, you won’t know what you are “looking for”. You do want to fix your truck! Right?
https://youtu.be/DfLyh43iihM


3. Check for voltage(s) on the Starter Relay (ST Relay)
One will have power at ALL times. (Pin #5 below)
One will have power on when the ignition is in the Start/Cranking position. (This is pin #1 below.)

4. Check for power at the small plug on the starter.
It should have power when cranking.
(Disconnect the big wire on the starter while checking this, just to be SAFE
Remember not to let the large wire touch anything it still has power. DO NOT let it touch anything.)

If all this check out. Start checking Grounds.