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A non-enthusiast's Tacoma build

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by ardrummer292, May 21, 2020.

  1. Sep 12, 2020 at 5:19 AM
    #41
    oakcity

    oakcity Well-Known Member

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    Jesse
    Raleigh, North Carolina
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    2009 Grey Tacoma AC 4x4
    Money Pit
    :rofl::rofl:
     
  2. Sep 14, 2020 at 5:30 AM
    #42
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    Overbuilt daily driver
    ARB bumper installed. The M1 Main Battle Tacoma is starting to take shape.

    119521044_3554955894528302_1644555635050180812_n.jpg

    Why did I buy an overhyped, overweight ARB bumper for a daily driver that rarely leaves pavement? To put it simply: because it allows me to have my cake and eat it, too.

    The OEM bumper does 2 things remarkably well: it protects passengers, and it weighs very little. You will not find an aftermarket bumper that does both of these things better than the stock part. In exchange for these qualities, you have to deal with a relatively fragile part that is designed as a very expensive single-use item.

    Most aftermarket bumpers do one thing (fairly) well: they protect the truck during collisions. In exchange for this protection, you increase the vehicle's weight and compromise passenger safety. Altering or deleting your designated front crumple zone changes the way your onboard safety systems work, although the extent of these changes has not been tested.

    ARB is the only company that makes a Tacoma-compatible bumper that is certified to maintain stock airbag functionality. This is accomplished by replicating the crush rate of the stock bumper via an integrated crumple zone built into the bumper mounting bracket. In addition to accurate triggering of the airbags, this crumple zone also offers a modicum of frame protection during a collision. Take a look through this thread and count how many owners are left with a bent frame thanks to their aftermarket bumper:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/plate-bumpers-after-impact-with-pics.379600/

    Choosing the ARB over all the other options meant I had to compromise the least on the things that matter most: occupant protection and vehicle protection. In exchange, I had to significantly upgrade my suspension to handle the net +131 lbs of new weight on the front end. Maybe ARB will consider making an aluminum bumper one day; I consider this to be the ideal solution.

    On to the install itself!

    There was a significant amount of prep work that I accomplished before this install, which was done the weekend prior. Organizing, inventorying, and labeling hardware took a couple hours by itself. Be advised: if you don't organize your hardware in advance, you have a looong day ahead of you.

    Drilling mounting holes for the Slee Offroad LED inserts (P/N SOK0049) took another couple painstaking hours, including deburring and painting. This was well worth it, since ARB's optional "fog lights" are actually driving lights, renown for their inappropriate beam pattern and poor performance. I opted for Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro LED fog pods, as reviewed by @crashnburn80 in his thread here:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...og-light-review.554813/page-137#post-22622437

    The fog pods weren't quite centered in the Slee inserts, so I had to lop off the top of the LED pod u-bracket to get the lights to sit lower in their square cutout. Pictures below:

    119469431_1660026927493830_2141463800047792525_n.jpg
    Cut u-bracket (left) vs. stock u-bracket (right). Larger washers will be required for the LED pod side bolts.


    LED pods are now vertically centered (more or less) in the Slee insert cutout.

    With the bulk of the pre-install tasks complete, all I had to do was wait for my time slot in the #randyfab garage.

    Fast forward to install day. @ImpulseDan met up with @EatSleepTacos and myself, where I swapped my intact color-matched bumper for his black cut bumper section. This saved Randy the hassle of cutting my OEM bumper, and Dan got hooked up with a complete OEM bumper assembly. Win-win.

    The ARB install itself isn't terribly complicated. The instructions (full color pdf attached), while vague in spots, are generally accurate. There are a few extra things you can do to make the process easier:

    - Pack a pair of AA batteries and masking tape. These will be used to set the gap between your bumper and fender flares. It can be difficult to get this gap even on both sides, so taping an appropriately-sized spacer in place will simplify the process.

    - Have a 90 degree drill adapter on hand. Per the instructions, you are supposed to drill 4 additional holes in the bumper mounting bracket once you get your bumper centered and sitting pretty. These 4 holes and bolts fully lock the bumper into position, removing any possibility of adjustment slippage. The 2 upper holes are fairly easy to access for drilling. The 2 lower holes cannot be reached without a 90 degree adapter. Since Randy didn't have a 90 degree drill adapter on hand (who does?), I currently only have the upper 2 bolts installed.

    - You have a giant, expensive rust magnet strapped to the front of your truck now. Fluid Film the hell out of the inside of the bumper and the entirety of everything else. Embrace the truck butter. 1 can should be fine, unless you're like me and blow through 2.

    - There are threads on various forums discussing ARB bumper issues, post-install. The one recurring complaint I found has to do with the outboard "wings" of the bumper slapping the fender flares, causing a worrying banging sound. I had some adhesive-backed weatherstripping sitting around, so I cut some to length and installed it on top of the aforementioned "wings." For reference, this is the exact spot the AA batteries were taped for setting the bumper-to-flare gap.

    119577811_1236032400082080_119208967110365935_n.jpg

    Once you've made it this far, check the function of your fog lights and turn indicators. Aim your fog lights, tighten the mounting bolts (if using LED fog pods), and you're done!

    Note: the Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro fog pods are so bright it's absurd. With them on, I can't even tell that my Philips LED headlights are on. I'm hoping that my planned Lexus HID retrofit will correct this issue.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 14, 2020
    ImpulseDan and crashnburn80 like this.
  3. Sep 19, 2020 at 4:08 AM
    #43
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    If you want to avoid getting stressed out, you might not want to read this post.

    I'm finally getting my LCAs replaced under warranty. Be warned: if you try to pull this off, the process for getting these replaced via warranty claim is probably going to be a colossal pain in the ass. Here's a rough play-by-play of how it went down for me.

    -

    August 3, 2020
    I get up with @EatSleepTacos for a pre-lift LCA inspection and anti-seize application. The forwardmost adjustment cam on the passenger's side LCA is seized. Disappointing, but not unexpected.

    -

    August 4, 2020
    I head to my local dealership and tell them what's going on. I ask them if they can break the LCA adjustment cam free. They say yes.

    I pick my truck up that afternoon, assured that the problem has been resolved. I ask for a demonstration to prove the issue has been fixed. They say that the alignment has been dialed in perfectly, so they don't want to have to re-do it. I say fine, I believe you, and drive home.

    -

    August 7, 2020
    Meet up with @EatSleepTacos again to reattempt LCA anti-seize application. It turns out that the dealership didn't fix my problem, despite repeated assurances that they did. I got a $135 toe-and-go alignment, and still have a stuck LCA cam. I get real pissed off. I call Toyota and open a case against the dealership.

    Later that day, I go into the dealership and speak with the customer relations manager, where I am issued a refund. We start over. I explain the issue in painstaking detail, including the relevant OEM part numbers. Notes are taken. I am told that the Toyota Certified Warranty people will be contacted to get a warranty claim started.

    -

    August 10, 2020
    I get a call back from the dealership. The Toyota Certified 12 month/12k mile limited comprehensive warranty, which is still applicable to my vehicle, will not cover this issue. It falls under the broad umbrella of corrosion, which is considered normal wear and tear and is therefore not covered. Oh HELL no, $765 worth of replacement parts is not "normal wear and tear."

    I call Toyota customer service. I would like someone to explain why I'm expected to dump the better part of a grand into a vehicle covered by a "comprehensive" warranty in order to regain factory functionality of essential systems. My concerns are elevated up the chain until someone finally tells me that I should be speaking with Toyota Financial Services, who administer the certified warranty. The regular Toyota customer service line doesn't handle stuff like this. That would've been good to know.

    I call Toyota Financial Services (TFS), where I have a 5 minute conversation with somebody at their headquarters in Cedar Rapids, IA, before a tornado siren cuts our conversation short.
    https://www.washingtonpost.com/weather/2020/08/14/cedar-rapids-iowa-derecho/

    -

    Meanwhile... August 10 through 19, 2020
    I call TFS back ~20 times over this range of dates, hoping that the phone system is diverting calls to others working remotely and out of the affected area. No such luck.

    -

    August 13, 2020
    My lift is getting installed the next day, so I need to be sure that this issue has been adequately documented before I void my warranty. I schedule an appointment with the dealership master tech. Once the vehicle is up on the lift, I demonstrate the issue for the master tech. He's quite familiar with this sort of problem, as you might expect.

    -

    August 14, 2020
    I get a call back from the dealership. Warranty claim denied. Since I can't get through to TFS, I contact the Toyota customer service line and ask for advice. They recommend going back to the dealership to get the issue documented on video.

    -

    August 17, 2020
    I meet up with the dealership's master tech. He takes a video of the issue, being very careful not to show any of the aftermarket suspension components that were installed for my lift. I watch the video to make sure it demonstrates the issue adequately. He says this will be submitted as part of my warranty claim.

    -

    August 19, 2020
    Warranty claim denied. Toyota says that sway bar bushings are not covered under warranty.

    ... uh, what?

    I finally get through to TFS. I inform them that the sway bar bushings are not, and have never been, the problem. I tell them that the LCAs are the problem. I ask them if they have seen the video demonstrating the issue. They have no idea what I'm talking about.

    I call TFS again later that day. The rep I'm connected with, the first helpful rep I've encountered, coaches me through the keywords needed to get the issue handled. The failure needs to be attributed to a seizure of the LCA bushings, not the alignment hardware. This isn't a lie, since one part is seized to the other.

    -

    August 20, 2020
    The dealership isn't returning my calls, which is making passing this new information along pretty difficult. Thankfully, they're on my way home from work. I'm not quitting, not yet.

    I show up and wait in the customer relations manager's office. I hand her a printed script, which contains all the keywords needed to get my LCAs replaced under warranty. I ask her to read this when calling in the warranty claim.

    -

    August 25, 2020
    Warranty claim denied. Again. TFS says my only recourse is requesting financial assistance from Toyota customer service.

    I call Toyota customer service and explain the issue, in detail. I ask if they can help. I am told that they need a repair cost estimate from the dealership. I inform the dealership customer relations manager to expect a call from Toyota.

    -

    August 28, 2020
    My Toyota case manager and the dealership finally make contact. Toyota decides to do a goodwill repair and cover the costs 100%. I am provided with a new case number, which has the details of the repair. It's finally over... or so I think.

    -

    September 4, 2020
    I didn't realize that the dealership quoted Toyota for replacement of the LCA bushings, not the entire LCA. Well, they are a dealership, so I'm sure they can pull that sort of thing off.

    Repair parts have arrived. I'm scheduled to have them installed early the following week.

    -

    September 8, 2020
    I'm informed that the dealership master tech is off all this week. I opt to delay my repair appointment until he's back, since he's intimately familiar with my situation.

    -

    September 14, 2020
    I drop off my truck and get a rental for the day. My truck should be ready by tomorrow, at the latest.

    -

    September 15, 2020
    The dealership received the wrong alignment hardware and LCA bushings. I should be all sorted out by tomorrow.

    -

    September 16, 2020
    The dealership informs me that there's an issue with the the LCAs. Everything is seized and will not come out. The dealership doesn't have the Special Service Tool (SST) required to press the rusted mess out without damaging the LCA itself. As it stands right now, the truck cannot be driven.

    New LCAs are required. Since this is all done as a goodwill repair, the dealership customer relations manager has to call Toyota for authorization.

    -

    September 17, 2020
    The dealership master tech has located the relevant SST and reattempted LCA bushing removal, without luck. New LCAs are the only way my truck will be operable.

    The dealership customer relations manager gets in contact with my Toyota case manager about receiving authorization for expanding the scope of the goodwill repair. Toyota denies this request. I now have an inoperable vehicle stuck on a dealership's lift.

    The customer relations manager has a stroke of genius. She calls TFS and informs them that the LCAs on my truck are shot, and then submits a warranty claim to that effect. This warranty claim is instantly approved. New LCAs are ordered, with overnight shipping to expedite the repair process.

    -

    September 18, 2020
    I am told that the LCAs received by the dealership were already earmarked for another Tacoma, which is undergoing frame replacement. The customer relations manager hijacks them, and they are set aside for installation on my truck. Not my idea, for the record.

    -

    Today, September 19, 2020
    Rental returned, and my truck is back in my possession. Will examine the work performed tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
    Greg.Brakes.Tacos likes this.
  4. Sep 19, 2020 at 5:33 AM
    #44
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I’ll believe I when I see it. This has been such a roller coaster of emotions.
     
  5. Sep 20, 2020 at 11:51 AM
    #45
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    Met up with @EatSleepTacos so he could work on his other, less cool build... a.k.a. my truck.

    The main effort today was originally going to be applying anti-seize to the adjustment hardware in my shiny new LCAs, which I finally got replaced under my CPO warranty. The original LCA bushings and ball joints themselves were fine, but one of the adjustment cams was seized. Details on that ordeal in my previous post.

    As it turns out, the dealership gave my LCA hardware a hearty coat of reddish grease prior to installation. Wiping this grease off and applying anti-seize in its place isn't really an intelligent use of time. Instead of working on my LCAs, Randy and I worked on some minor stuff that doesn't warrant a detailed writeup.

    - Properly aiming fog lights: done myself at oh-dark-hundred this morning in accordance with the instructions below.
    https://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/how-to-align-aftermarket-fog-lights/
    I got the vertical adjustment about right. Zeroing the lights left-to-right is significantly more difficult, since the SS3 fog pods don't really have a discernible "hot spot" to center.

    - Double-checking brake line length: not really necessary for mild (non-MT or LT) suspension mods like mine, but good for peace of mind. My brake lines have plenty of slack at full droop, so no worries.

    - Wheel bearing health check: this was done to put my mind at ease about a very slight grinding/grumbling sensation, which appeared after the lift was installed and seems to be coming from the front of the truck. Both front wheel bearings are a-ok. What I'm feeling can probably be chalked up to the super-stiff front coils transferring road surface imperfections into the frame or cab.

    - Modifying the spare tire bay to accommodate a full-size (32") spare: done using a modified version of the instructions below.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cheap-free-mods.4838/page-6#post-47335
    You don't really need to cut the tabs mentioned in the thread off. Get a hammer and whack them flat instead. Easy peasy.

    - Undercoating touch-up: the dealership performed the frame inspection for the K0D TSB while they had my truck last week. It looks like the techs wiped off a good bit of the Fluid Film I had applied in order to see the frame clearly. No wrenching session is complete without truck butter.

    - Beer fridge swag acquired:
    119980128_355291738947091_7749471773862192614_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
    EatSleepTacos likes this.
  6. Oct 4, 2020 at 5:04 AM
    #46
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    Got some minor stuff taken care of over these past couple weeks.

    F02F9A48-2661-4E52-94D4-CCEC941FF8E2.jpg

    I spent the entirety of last weekend detailing the outside of my truck. It took 20 exhausting hours, from start to finish.
    - Rinsed off loose debris
    - Scrubbed every surface down with dish soap to remove old wax
    - Used a clay bar (or 3) to remove embedded contaminants
    - Coated all my black trim with Solution Finish trim restorer
    - Debadged my truck and cleaned the gunk off from the concealed surfaces using WD40 and elbow grease
    - Applied vinyl replacement badges
    - Coated every surface with Sonax Polymer Net Shield, a highly-rated paint sealant known for its durability and longevity
    - Top-coated every surface with Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer, cut with 1 part water for 2 parts of detailer
    - Cleaned my wheels and tires, then coated with Aerospace 303 protectant
    - Cleaned my glass with Rain-X
    - Installed in-channel window visors, because all the cool kids seem to have in-channel visors
    - Died on the couch

    If you're interested in a low-profile replacement for your badges (whether it be for compatibility with GOAT armor or just for aesthetics), I can't recommend @CBoy808's products highly enough. My gloss black decals look awesome. Now if I could only figure out a way to remove the chrome dealership decal... a steam gun and credit card didn't do the trick.

    BF0362B2-496F-4C50-A502-3CD2E380AFE2.jpg
    A12D5DFF-7C14-4590-BA62-CCFA7AE1D098.jpg
    FC11F874-E797-45BD-96C5-B07D78D5E493.jpg

    This weekend has been significantly less busy. My HKB 0.5V voltage booster finally arrived from Australia, allowing me to install my X2Power 27F AGM battery and wide adjustable battery tiedown from @Coupe. Details on that particular upgrade here:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/
    FB684CAC-1EBB-4C26-A1BC-068586A11BBB.jpg
    While I could've installed the upgraded battery prior to receiving the voltage booster, I didn't want to risk damaging the battery by charging it incorrectly. Take care of your stuff and it'll take care of you.

    I also reattempted the rear diff breather mod. I went with OEM parts this time around, using a union (P/N 90404-51319) and 2-way breather (P/N 90930-03136) purchased through OEM Part Source. I bought 7 feet of 3/8" fuel line and the appropriate hose clamps from my local AutoZone. 7 feet turned out to be the perfect amount, giving me just enough length to allow for full rear axle droop and hug the frame all the way up to the driver's side brake light.
    D11AB407-2B85-490A-B10A-497C2F28A2BF.jpg
    18A5546B-1E42-4D9C-ADE1-B3A3317253EC.jpg
    Yes, using 2 hose clamps per fitting is probably overkill. Two is one, one is none, three is fun.

    The next big-ticket items on my list are getting my SPC UCAs dialed in perfectly, which will be done by Bert's Alignment (a highly-rated local alignment shop). After that, I can finally get the stack of wheels and tires out of my living room and onto my truck.
     
    Coupe and EatSleepTacos like this.
  7. Oct 13, 2020 at 5:22 AM
    #47
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    It has now been 2 months since I had my lift installed, and 1 month since I added the ARB bumper to the front. I think the springs are about as broken-in as they're going to get, so I took measurements again to see where I'm sitting.

    Front end: + 2 7/8" lift (- 15/16" from original post-lift measurements)
    Rear end: + 2 7/16" lift (+ 3/16" from original post-lift measurements somehow?)

    Ride quality is firm, with very little nose-dive while braking or body roll while cornering. It isn't "plush" by any stretch of the imagination; hitting potholes and other road imperfections is much more jarring than the stock setup. My concerns about breaking components due to excessive shock transfer appear to be unfounded:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/damage-from-stiff-front-suspension.688486/

    I still suspect that the GS59-350 coils I have are actually meant for a heavier 3rd gen with armor. That said, if nothing is going to suffer damage due to the stiff coils, then I'll live with it for now.
     
    dantheman1540 likes this.
  8. Oct 13, 2020 at 10:57 AM
    #48
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco ALL human beings deserve equal treatment

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    Just did the rear USB port mod today

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...en-tacoma-today.6499/page-10589#post-24355267
     
  9. Oct 13, 2020 at 12:29 PM
    #49
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    Overbuilt daily driver
  10. Oct 13, 2020 at 12:51 PM
    #50
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco ALL human beings deserve equal treatment

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    I wanted the option of using it has both USB ports and a 12v socket for other devices....something you can't do with a USB port alone
     
  11. Oct 13, 2020 at 12:59 PM
    #51
    dantheman1540

    dantheman1540 Well-Known Member

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    Camburg UCAs, Bilstien 5100s/886, AAL, Falken AT3W, Allpro Bumper.
    I like this build a lot! I am an enthusiast and that's exactly why I got a Tacoma. All my other crap is less than reliable and yet my boss still expects me to make it to work on time. Therefore I have a low mile nearly stock Toyota so I always have a backup that can do just about everything I'll ever need it to as long as I keep the maintenance up.

    Also I love the ARB bumper.
     
    ardrummer292[OP] likes this.
  12. Oct 13, 2020 at 2:34 PM
    #52
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    Makes sense to me. Super clean install!

    Thanks man! I’m trying to make an invincible daily driver, so the Tacoma is the most sensible platform.
     
  13. Oct 15, 2020 at 5:17 AM
    #53
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

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    Yesterday, I got my SPC UCAs dialed in properly by a highly-recommended local alignment shop. The UCAs were adjusted to maximize space at the rear of the wheel well, which should ensure that I have room for mud flaps after getting larger tires installed. This was accomplished via SPC's recommended method:
    https://www.spcalignment.com/partFAQ/25470_FAQ.pdf

    This particular alignment shop is "old school": no computers, all manual. As such, I don't have any printouts to show my final alignment numbers. I'm going to take the shop's word on the accuracy of the alignment for now, and verify with my Firestone lifetime alignment later.

    Following the advice of @EatSleepTacos, I used a Markal security paint marker on the SPC's large 32mm nut once the alignment was complete. This will let me know if the bolt loosens or the ball joint slides within its slot. I recommend double-checking the torque on the nut before applying the
    f o r b i d d e n m u s t a r d

    121555037_351034542774241_6020624648133026360_n.jpg

    After everything got dialed in at the shop, the tech told me that the VSC light was illuminated. He said that it was likely due to the extreme change in alignment: with the LCA caster cams dialed to max and the UCA ball joints rotated around, the tires were super toed-in before tweaking the tie rod (or whatever gets tweaked to adjust toe).

    121551437_1754744241345787_5263664718322491568_n.jpg

    I made a thread asking for assistance diagnosing the cause of the constantly illuminated VSC indicator:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vsc-light-steady-on-after-alignment.689970/

    Since the ABS light wasn't on and the speedometer was functioning, a broken ABS wire seemed unlikely. @ShimStack offered some useful insight as to why a VSC recalibration might be needed. So, following his (and others') advice, I did a DIY VSC reset following the instructions in this thread:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ibrate-your-vsc-computer-the-easy-way.467485/

    It took 2 paper clips and about 5 minutes in my office parking lot. Not complicated stuff.

    I finished up and took my truck for a spin around the block. The VSC light is off and stayed off for the duration of the ~3 minute drive. I will update this post if the light comes back on.
     
  14. Oct 15, 2020 at 5:19 AM
    #54
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    F O R B I D D E N

    M U S T A R D
     
  15. Oct 15, 2020 at 9:27 AM
    #55
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2020
    Member:
    #320484
    Messages:
    1,139
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Austin
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Vehicle:
    2015 DCLB V6 A/T 4x4 1D6
    Overbuilt daily driver
    Paid the 50% deposit to Lightwerkz for my RX350 retrofit. My wallet is screaming. @Island Cruiser, this is your fault.

    Lightwerkz invoice sterilized.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
    gardengnome and Island Cruiser like this.
  16. Oct 15, 2020 at 1:20 PM
    #56
    Island Cruiser

    Island Cruiser TVita

    Joined:
    May 20, 2012
    Member:
    #79166
    Messages:
    3,910
    Gender:
    Male
    Kauai
    Vehicle:
    Baja
    6C461046-D897-4E60-803D-9C9FF1B77E6C.jpg
     
  17. Oct 15, 2020 at 1:42 PM
    #57
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2020
    Member:
    #320484
    Messages:
    1,139
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Austin
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Vehicle:
    2015 DCLB V6 A/T 4x4 1D6
    Overbuilt daily driver
    Literal worst influence right here.

    On the BRIGHT side (HA), these headlights are gonna be insane.
     
  18. Oct 15, 2020 at 1:44 PM
    #58
    Island Cruiser

    Island Cruiser TVita

    Joined:
    May 20, 2012
    Member:
    #79166
    Messages:
    3,910
    Gender:
    Male
    Kauai
    Vehicle:
    Baja
    Very ACcURAte
     
  19. Oct 15, 2020 at 1:49 PM
    #59
    ardrummer292

    ardrummer292 [OP] 500k or bust

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2020
    Member:
    #320484
    Messages:
    1,139
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Austin
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Vehicle:
    2015 DCLB V6 A/T 4x4 1D6
    Overbuilt daily driver
    Lexus tho. SHAME
     
  20. Oct 15, 2020 at 1:57 PM
    #60
    Island Cruiser

    Island Cruiser TVita

    Joined:
    May 20, 2012
    Member:
    #79166
    Messages:
    3,910
    Gender:
    Male
    Kauai
    Vehicle:
    Baja
    Ay, man, ALexus is the smarter sister of Toyota
     

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