Adding a DRL circuit for 3rd Gen SR & SR5's without DRL LED in headlights.

@JP3, Luv to see the connections to the LED headlights. By the way, that is a very overbuild wire selection for DRL circuit. Also, the DRL's input wires on the 2020 LED headlights are green like prior years...What LED headlights did you install?

 

I just installed TRD headlights not the new 2020 LED. I realize the wire gauge is a bit large haha. Its all I really had laying around. 16awg

 

Very subtle...

 

So when you say “The IGN & Power to the added DRL relay gets male terminals that will be wedged on the respective terminals of the Battery Charger Relay from below. So measure, strip-place heat shrink then crimp n shrink. Wedge then secure withe tape.”

You mean there will be 2 male spades wedged in where there was only 1 on the positive and negative battery charger relay? This is the only part I’m still not 100% sure about.

I feel like I need a picture book doing this lol

 

Respective terminals through you off? One for each (+) & (-). The only dual wire is the output to the headlights and that one is a female terminal to the added DRL relay.

 

no, how to tap into the battery charging relay. I haven’t pulled it but if it is a regular relay there is one male spade from the relay and a female connector. Or I assume it is a spade connection and not a bolt type connection

 

I am thinking a piggy back connector like the below

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...SwaNi5ZqKIZkrTe8EXS7Fp15XXn29syRoC3TIQAvD_BwE

 

It would not fit, the female terminal has its space. That's why you'd need a male to wedge between female terminal and plastic base.

 

The relay has male terminals, the base female ones.

 

Gotcha so 2 males in 1 female. That is what I thought you where saying but was not sure it would fit like that. Thanks again!

 

No...
The tap (wedge) to the Battery Charger Relay gets 2 male terminals. (+) & (-). The positive should be to a fuse holder. From the fuse holder to the added DRL relay. On pin 87a of the added DRL relay you place to wires (20awg), one for the driver's side and the other to the passenger's side.

 

ok so I’m not running anything off of or to the battery charging relay.

On the battery charging relay spot 1 (-)and 6 (+) is open and no connection already there from the factory? That’s what I am trying to figure out. If it’s open I can just use the male connector to connect. Sorry I know it’s like being a preschool teacher with me on this lol. I just don’t know what the bottom of the battery charging relay looks like

 

gotcha! Thanks man!

 

The blue "cable" is the added one to the factory IGN wire for the battery charger relay. (Another member didn't understand either about wire size and distance.) It should've been same size as the lime green wire.

 

^^ not sure if you're referring to me. I fully understand wire gauge and ampacity that go along with a low voltage power and signal wire. As for the battery charger relay; the space is very tight in the terminal slots under the relay, even with smaller gauge wire. Doesn't matter how small the wire is, it is very tight with the new male spade connector and the blue wire. That is why I decided to run another add a fuse from an unused switched ignition source under the dash.

 

@JP3 , nope...not you...look at picture. You did not do that...

 

My bad. The pic you posted isn't showing.

 

For those wanting DRL Full brightness without dimming when low beam are selected. Tap the Battery Charging Relay #5 with fuse holder, then send wires to each headlight. NO relay, no add-a-fuse to the low beam fuse. Simple.

 

Connector 1F at the cab junction/relay/fuse box has slot 30 functional for DRL like the OR n PRO models. Still working on the correct terminal to insert into 1F for an OEM LED type mod.
More to follow.
Thanks to: @kmorgan3 & @Puppypunter