New England B.S. Thread

Yup exactly. I had gotten a print before where the bright engineer made a through hole near an edge of the profile of the part. The through hole would have been fine by itself but it was a threaded hole... So after threading the hole it blew out the side of the part. Why? Cause this bright engineer only left .0005" of material after putting threads in to the outside profile of the part. Needless to say I stopped there and they called over to the other place. The engineer came over a few days later to learn why his part wouldn't work.

One of the more memorable ones right there

 

My Sierra LED headlights are amazing, best headlights I've ever had on a vehicle. As long as whatever holds them in doesn't rot out in short order.

I'm test driving an F250 this weekend, crew cab STX with the 6.2L.

 

I don’t even try doing anything without watching a YouTube video first. There’s always some stupid clip that i’ll miss and break off.

I think LEDs can out perform high end halogens. At least in my housing, the LEDs kicked the shit out of any of the halogen options.

Nice! MPGLOL. Careful with the 7.3, the first gen 10 speed has some issues. There’s a gen 2 out already.

 

I figured it would be easy. Just headlights.. My older wrx was cake to change the bulbs so I expected the outback to be the same.

Boy was i wrong.

 

Have you read the testing thread? Only the Hikari Ultras are close. It falls into the trap of a ton of foreground light versus the distance projection.

Plus, the Jeeps are apparently super sensitive to flickering if the replacement lamps aren’t perfect.

 

This one has the 6.2L with the 8spd. It's a 2020. Anything to look out for?

Edit: Ooops, I mean the 6spd.

 

LOL who only leaves 5 tenths anyway? WTF.

I was able to find a YT video of someone doing a window actuator on my specific year jeep, door, and everything. There's so much stuff out there for DIYers. Enough to get into trouble.

Yeah the 10 speed had some issues, I think, with the NA engines and people hammering on them, either driving hard or just using them for their intended purpose. There haven't been much issues in the ranger because people don't load them down to 10k and drive them hard, etc. That's my take on it. But the SD has a different 10 speed, so I might be talking out my ass.

 

Lol yea they ended up adding like .150" to that side

 

I think those are pretty solid. You might have some shock going from a pretty loaded Sierra to an STX, though. You see a ton of them around and they look nice (mostly an appearance package) but they're pretty bare-bones trucks.

 

Yeah I'm going to have trouble with that. Hopefully towing with it will make up for it.

 

Rock solid power plant. I liked my ‘18 more than my ‘19 even though, on paper, they were the same truck. The 6.2 and the 6 speed are a great combo. If you go to the 350, there’s a 10 speed option for the 6.2 also. It’s strong but it’s certainly not a Prius... pay attention to all the packages available. There a lot of different gvwr packages, tow packages, axle ratios, camper package and snow plow packages available. For commuting, i’d make sure you get 3.73 rear and don’t get the snow plow and camper package as they beef up the suspension and will make it ride rougher.

Feel free to message me if you have any questions about the packages or the ones i’ve owned.

 

They all seem to have the snow plow prep up here. I may have to order what I want here.

 

Might be fine, it just comes with heavier springs in the front end. With the 6.2, it could end up being fairly stiff. The snow plow package springs seem to be geared towards supporting the 6.7 with a plow hanging off the front end. My 6.7 rides much better than my old 6.2 did, enough so that I haven't swapped the shocks on the new truck. With the 6.2, I swapped over to Rancho 9000XLs and it helped a lot. Fox makes another good option to replace the stock shocks. The Motorcraft shocks, to me, seemed hilariously overpowered, the new shocks helped that out, so did dropping the tire pressure to about 45 when unloaded.

 

I tried the Hikari’s and went back to high performance halogen. Hikari plastic tabs actually broke as I was taking them out; offered no follow-up support.

 

Bingo.

The people who design them don't see beyond the assembly line, so if it saves 1/10th a second or half a penny it's great..

 

Nope, but i’ll give it a read. I understand foreground light and throw, that’s why I ditched my 30” light bar in favor of Hyperspot pods. I think it really has a lot to do with the housing you put them in also. Dropping any old LED into a halogen housing isn’t always going to yield good results, regardless of how bright the LED itself is. If you can’t get light where you need it, it’s useless. The LED kit I bought for the Ford was tested specifically in the Ford housing and does a great job mimicking the OEM light pattern, just brighter. For general, on the road use, I think LEDs have Halogens licked, you just need the right LED for the housing (talking general reflector housings, projectors are their own animal).

Edit: which thread are you referring to? Is it this one?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
I started reading the original post and, as far as i’m concerned, there’s a lot wrong with it and a pretty clear bias. If it gets better, let me know and i’ll start reading from the bottom up.
Edit again, I'll eat crow a bit here, that thread and the ones linked in there have a lot of great info, guy did a lot of work. That said, I still think the right LEDs are a good option. His ultimate setup was neat but introduced a whole new harness into the mix. The lifespan of LED over halogen is a big perk for me also, especially on a vehicle where they're a pain to swap.

 

what’s this vent called for my furnace? I’m wondering if I should replace it before I start using my furnace regularly this winter. I’ve bleed the air out a couple times over last two years and it still seems like I get noisy pipes. Thoughts? It looks like it comes off pretty easily-ish with a couple large crescent wrenches and some heat. Pretty sure I’ll need to drain the system before I begin

 

That’s the pressure relief for the expansion tank. Looks messy.
We just got a new furnace and they replaced the tank and valve on top of the fitting.

 

thats an air separator. Gotta watch those cause if you continually bleed the system there’s a chance the float will stick open and you’ll leak water. You only need to replace it if the float (Internally it’s wire mesh) is all messed up and it won’t bleed the air out.

so depending how you have the heating runs done. I’m assuming you have a two story home, the returns from the second floor should have a bleeder 90 on them. Crack the bleeder screw and it’ll help purge the air.

Everyone has a slightly different heating system. Mine used zone valves for the feed and I have drain tees on the returns. My second floor has a drain 90 and I one had to purge it once during the initial install.
I did have to replace my hot water tank so had to re bleed that and the air separator ended up sticking open. Couple taps with a ball pen hammer got it to settle back down

 

That set up looks real simple to allow easy changing of your tank or release valve. Wish mine was