Improving frame drainage

I recently did another scoping of the inside of my frame for rust. Still in good shape, however I did find that one of my drain holes has clogged up and theres some dirt up in it. I am wanting to drill bigger drain holes and clean it out before it becomes a problem and to prevent that form happening again.

I want to know what is the largest hole I can drill into the bottom of the boxed parts of the frame that will not affect the strength of the frame? and how many can I put and how close?

Thanks TW

 

It comes down to what your state will allow if you have an inspection.

Myself I don`t think I would go over half the width of the frame.

Unless your going to wash the frame insides after every use I wonder if there will be any real gain .

The more you open things the more slop can get in

I could do the math but that is to much like work from years ago.

 

Okay, I was thinking about something like 1/2” holes. And really I might just do it where they already are. Because there are openings in the frame above the drain hole that are bigger anyways. Maybe I’ll match the biggest factory hole in the area, so at least whatever can get in, will have a chance to get out

 

You have a good quality spray nozzle right ?? I would make one hole in front and back just big enough to stick in the tip of that nozzle. Allow for a little room to wiggle it around. For hole don't use a paddle bit. Use a hole saw with a little grease/oil on the teeth.

 

I enlarged holes on my taco rear and front recently and still have one to go
Just shy of half inch felt good

 

I was planning on using a step bit and ya I have a power washer

 

Step bit is what I used

 

I'd suggest to avoid enlarging the holes or adding more holes WITHOUT knowledge of the frame loading and stress levels. YOU could weaken the frame.

The prudent method is to keep the frame clean. Rinse with fresh water and remove any caked dirt.

 

... stress levels, frame load, blah, blah, blah , my goodness we are trying to keep these things from imploding with rust. Have never seen one of these frames buckle from owners drilling a few holes to flush, have seen a few buckle on a lift though ... wonder what thats about ??

 

I don't think it's really necessary if you've got a good spray nozzle. Just have to be strategic and watch the water coming out.

 

You're right. And the next time you need a good spray nozzle ... Gilmour Supreme. Works like all nozzles ... its just this one is all metal, drop it, bang it, throw it, the handle still hasn't broke. Reminds me of the old Timex watch commercials ... takes a lickin and keeps on tickin ... of course I never actually watched those black and white commercials on a TV with rabbit ears ...

 

Most of those failures on lifts are two post lifts and when lifting they get to much difference between the front and back putting stress on the frame opposite of normal .

To be honest lower ball joint failure is more of a concern then the frame to me.

 

Is that what she told you?

 

As it should be.

 

I have a lift in my garage and take my trucks up pretty often. I can tell you the rear sags even on my truck I bought that had lived down South and has a really nice frame. The weight of the RR differential, bed, leaf springs, spare tire, bumper, etc are all behind the lifting point, which is just in front of the front spring mount(see below). You can watch the gap open up between the frame and bed as the rear sags.

Unfortunately, that lift point is just in front of a very common rust through point, right at the front mount of the leaf springs. That is almost exactly where the stress is when you lift them. It is no wonder the break when raised on two post.

I use my rear safety jackstand (under trailer hitch) to take some of the stress off while I have it lifted. Even if it's just psychological, it makes me feel a little better.

 

I thinking along the opposite lines.

If you scope the inside of your frame and it is free of rust, what would be the effect of plating/boxing the entire frame so there is no more entry points for moisture/grime?

 

well you would have to be 100% sure that you purged any and all moisture out before you did that I would think.
and that would be difficult.

I imagine you'd also want to purge out the oxygen with some kind of inert gas and seal that in.

 

If it was totally sealed it would consume what's in there and turn it into a little bit of rust, then stop.

The trick is actually sealing it, and keeping it that way. With all of the exits sealed, suddenly one small leak is a big problem and you no longer have a way to inspect it.

 

In my experience.

A "completely" sealed welded frame is not sealed. It will rust, many times it occurs quicker than expected.

The best solution is to allow the dirt and water an escape path with periodic cleaning/rinsing. The escape paths will allow air to circulate helping to dry out any remaining moisture.

My truck lived on a gravel road before my possession. I have spent several hours removing debris from the frame. Mud, gravel, corn stalks, twigs, soybean stalks and flushing with much water. Let it dry for a couple weeks only to find more. This was attacked with a shop vac, various "digging" tools, fingers and clearing out more. Followed with more water flushing. Now, every time I'm under the truck I search for more debris to remove. The frame on this truck was replaced by Toyota 2 years ago.

 

Sand in frame is worst
Or maybe not