Dave's driver's truck

That shift pattern inlay looks legit. I've been wanting to paint the shift pattern on my Delrin shift knob from @7r41lbr34k3r, but I've read that it's hit or miss on Delrin. How'd you do that?

 

he did the engraving and you'd need to ask him about it, but i know he went slow and used canned compressed air to freeze the shavings and knock them off to keep clean edges.

for the inlay i used OPI brand nail lacquer, a heat gun, and wet sanding to 3000 grit, and many layers of application. is that what you're asking about?

 

Yeah, thanks!

 

I traded in my 2006 stick baja when I got my taco...
Sub'd

 

Seriously awesome work you have completed with the fj pedal swap! So happy this exists right now. Im rebuilding an 01 tacoma metal clutch pedal right now and I've ALWAYS hated my cheap wobbly plastic crap pedal for 160k toyota put on my 16 so it got me thinking if anyone has swapped in anything and BAM on the first page is this incredible list of parts. So in all honesty how do you like the pedal swap with the stage 2 clutch so far? I definitely am 100% doing the pedal swap, but I'm considering selling my urd stage 2 clutch and heavy flywheel combo because of all the problems I've come across and waiting for centerforce's clutch/heavy flywheel combo. Ive had great luck with centerforce in past toyotas and after talking to a lady that has one in her 16 im swaying that way. Ive never owned anything urd. Just want a good opinion on a urd setup, and we would have a similar setup, I have the ADM and core shifter like you and I would be running the same clutch just a heavy flywheel instead and I have hammer hangers on stock shackles w/no crossbar. Thank you for any insight and thank you for that God send of a parts list!

 

you are welcome and thank you for the kind words! most credit here with the parts plan goes to @Jeff Lange.

it is totally right, the whole package. it is integrated, tight, and just right on with everything. i wouldn't change a thing at all right down to pedal position, throw, weight, engagement, etc. it could not have come out better, and i wish you were local to check it out.

the URD stg2 is great, I'd do it again for sure. the quality of the clutch itself is excellent. these two issues I've seen were odd, but i fixed mine with replacing the spacer & tob again and all has been spot on.

the one thing to give you confidence is that there isn't anything weird, off, or compromised like many diy mods like this. if yota sold this in the truck you would only hear rave reviews across the board. any specific q's, feel free to ask. btw i kept my stock (resurfaced) flywheel and that was the right choice for me. i haven't tried the heavy one, it's not part of my package plan.

 

Dave, thx for the write up. How much total $$ were all the parts for the pedal swap?

 

i don't have an exact number, but get ready for a shock. it was all under $250.

 

Dave, another quick question. If I get these frame braces from marlin crawler and get them welded on, can I still change out to aftermarket lower control arms down the road without issue?

 

yes. i welded on the Marlins, did a bunch more stuff, then recently replaced upper & lower arms and welded on the TC coil bucket gussets about a year after installing the Marlins. i have DK lowers now. great combo! if you seriously want your suspension to perform cleanly, i recommend the coil bucket gussets with the Marlins to equally reinforce the upper & lower portions together. but that will show the details in your alignment and shock tuning so be ready for it.

 

Thx awesome info

 

Another question, thx for all your info. If I want to keep my stock master cylinder and just swap to the fj pedal, which of these parts do I only need? Also, the cushion part only comes in a 10 pack, but only need 2. Thanks again Dave

 

awesome that you are doing this, 3rd gen #2!

i cannot be totally confident about the little parts since I've forgotten all the answers when i was researching, and i didn't install it myself. but I'm pretty sure you can skip the parts i marked out here. i know this is a nothing issue, but just to be clear your mc clevis will be plastic, which is neither here nor there for performance, but keeping your mc completely intact will save you almost half the price which is a huge win.

like i wrote originally, when i did this the metal clevis was not available on its own, so that's why i bought another mc from the land cruiser, just to get the metal clevis. it looks like you can skip all of that more expensive stuff and [probably] just keep the clevis to pedal pin to connect the old to new. if i was you here, i would just get the cheap bushes etc to cover those needs even if you don't use them, all under $10 or so, right?

 

Right on, thanks. One of the next few weekends, I'm going to do the accumulator delete (dremel) mod and will tackle this at the same time.

 

I think the pedal swap is gonna be my spring time project

hoping yours goes well

 

yeah do them together for a total change. no need to break those two things into stages. should be good.

btw if you want a more detailed answer to the parts question, tag Jeff Lange (you can do it in this thread if you want). I'm sure he'd be happy to see another install happening. maybe yours without the MC stuff is preferred around here, quite a bit more simple, inexpensive, and straightforward.

 

Great, will do. For $75 I figure it's worth to do the swap since the adm dremel will be basically $0.

 

if you can turn this into a 1-2 hour plug n play swap for under 100$, that would be something to see.

 

Yes please!

 

I was thinking the same thing.

Thanks for the details thus far Dave, truck is super cool.