Long Travel BS Thread

Sadly those that are willing to spend that much and pay well more than depreciated value are those that drive these prices and lenders willing to lend are a culprit to blame. Sellers are always going to have more "emotional" value into these than practical value. But it's worth what it's worth to someone.

 

Which is standard supply/demand. I'm not bashing the price if he feels he can sell the truck for that amount and has the patience & time to find the right buyer. I simply wouldn't make that purchase.

My assumption is as @tubbsisland said. There is extremely high risk for the lender in that situation so I'm sure they'd require substantial up front collateral and a high interest rate. I highly doubt it would fall under a vehicle loan.

 

Neither would I

 

No emotional attachment, its just a truck to me. I'm also not in a position where I need to sell so why short change myself. Regardless everything is OBO, someone serious comes along I'm happy to talk about it.

Heres my Math tho: KBB private party is $35k +($60k in parts invested x 50% depreciation which we both know is conservative for quality parts) = $65k market value. Pretty practical.

 

We'll now that you put it that way... you take $3750 for that GFC? #onlyusinglogic

 

LOL if you wanna buy the whole truck you're more than welcome to tell people you paid $3750 for the camper, its actually $4187 tho with custom colors, windows and doors

I actually have a list of buyers for the GFC, but since its wired internally its basically married to the truck so I'm not really considering it.

 

Fine, I'll meet you at $4187 even though white isn't my preference. Way to negotiate.

I've got a set of diagonal cutters that will take care of that REAL quick.

 

Finally going to have the cash to fix the flat on the Bronco ?

 

He better get on it cause I’ll be harassing him periodically. I need another go fast guy out here, can’t always hang out with my Jeep friends.

 

Bypass shock question: at full extension how far above the resi port is the wear band on the piston?

 

@TMFF @Anthony250 @Happysmiley

 

Thanks. I'm trying to solve a suspension jacking issue on a bypassed rear end.

 

What’s that?

 

what shocks?

They "should" be above the outlet to keep the wear band from wearing prematurely. The shaft spacer can and will dictate where the piston is at full droop.

What "jacking issue"

 

Saw this on Facebook and found it interesting as I’ve never seen anyone do it this way. Always been told to set the shocks at zero degrees to the axle at full droop or zero degrees at full compression.

The short explanation I got on this was figure out your axle mounting point at full droop and draw an arc on a piece of whatever through the upper mount on the shock. Then set the axle at full bump and draw an arc again. Where ever they intercept is where the upper shock mount should go.

Seems to work on paper. No binding and smooth movement through the shock travel. Anyone ever used this?

 

depends on the shock, eye ball it and charge with N2

 

King 2.5x10 two tubes.

When the truck hits a washboard section of road the rear feels like it's lifting (the opposite of leaf spring packing, where it compresses and looses ride height with every hit).

Assuming the piston is close to the resi port at full droop that means the piston is very close to the extended end of the bypass zone at ride height. Not ideal as I understand it.

The question is: without rebuilding the whole rear end can we get the ride under control?

 

Eyeball it says the shock is close to the bottom of the bypass zone at ride height

 

Got any video of it happening? What valving is in it?

 

No, and unknown. Local overland shop did the install, and I'm impressed with thier work.