Anything welding

Myself I use the cheapest spray lube I can find

The whole Liquid coolant never worked back in the days I was on the road for weeks when the heat was off. Antifreeze would have had to be added spray lube just worked just as good

I just got used to doing it this way I had the saw going on 30 years

 

Bump your budget up $200 and get a Hobart 140.

 

You’re not gonna find anything new for that price that will make you happy. As slander said above, bump your budget up a little. A Vulcan welder from harbor freight will do you well, along with Hobart, and maybe a Lincoln 140. I would suggest you run gas though so you’re going to be a bit above your budget if you buy a tank. Don’t forget you need gear such as hood, gloves, possibly a jacket if you wanna be safe, etc... to be honest, you really should try pan to spend around 5-7 hundred for a decent setup and gear. This won’t even get you top of the line stuff, but decent bottom end stuff that will give you good results.

 

Remember. You are buying a tool that will last a lifetime.

$1k or so over 35 years is nothing

 

Exactly.

 

I use atf that I left the cap off the jug and accidentally sprayed some sparks into (a lot of sparks cause it glistens now lol) and just spray some on it for long cuts/thick material. If you set the speed slow enough you typically don’t need it

 

Yea the speed is slow on it. It’s got a tank setup with a circulating pump that I’ve been using. But I hate that it evaporates so quick during the summer months especially with the expensive solution

I’ll have to give atf in a spray bottle a try

 

Thoughts on this package and
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/d/north-bend-welder-hobart-handler-120v/7219927412.html

 

it’s such an old machine, I’d be wary of it. I think I’d have him prove it works then throw 250 at it.

 

I just bought some cutting fluid to use on the lathe and will have to try it when cutting holes or using the band saw. I always thought the stuff was a gimic and used old oil but thought I’d give this a try

 

If you can weld and your able to put it through a good test run making sure you have the full range of control.

The machine will work for what you need.

The cylinder hydro test is good and your able to swap or get it filled local without issue .

Knowing any failure but consumables will make it a nice paper weight.

Start with a lower offer if it all checks out you never know.

The fact the seller did not bother to clean it up to take pictures is interesting .

 

So we are cousins!
But sometimes people get all formal on me and go the full route.

F***ing Dickhead....

 

I use a chop saw with abrasive wheel. Yesterday the dust bag caught on fire, didn't see it initially with all the sparks flying but was able to put it out, but the whole bag was in flames. So between that and the fact my chop saw is getting pretty nasty from the metal shavings and hot metal it comes in contact with, I'd been thinking about getting an evo saw, but I'm intrigued by some of the experienced folks that use a bandsaw instead. Are you all able to make accurate miter joints with a bandsaw? Does it take long to cut through thick material?

 

I’m not experienced with either seeing as I make all my cuts with an angle grinder or plasma. If I were to choose one though I would likely get evo. Jimbos garage is an excellent channel on YouTube and he builds a lot of stuff, and does all his cutting with a cold cut saw (pretty sure evo).

 

If I bought one it would be the evo. I know quite a few people with it and they seem to like it

I do like my bandsaw though as it can cut through bigger material on its own and also stops on its own.

 

Jimbo uses a Fein Slugger, FYI. He loves that thing. The Evo is a copy of it though and I found it just as good.

FWIW, I went from using an angle grinder to using an abrasive disc on my old craftsman miter saw and then got the portaband and now I have the Evo. I don’t have room for a full sized bandsaw so I never got into one. Each one of those has their pros and cons. I like using the Evo for consistent repeatable cuts (like slider legs that all need to be the same size and at the same angle). Down side is that it’s loud as hell (louder than an angle grinder) and it throws metal chips everywhere. They’re not sparks but they still sting you if they land on bare skin. I usually have to use a magnetic sweeper in the shop after using it. But it cuts fast and consistent without blade deflection like and abrasive chop saw. You can’t cut 1/8” off a tube with an abrasive saw without the blade deflecting and giving you a wonky cut. I use the portaband (Bauer) for cuts on bigger material that would be clumsy to put on the work bench (bedracks). It has a learning curve but I’ve gotten pretty comfortable with it and can cut 1/8” off a tube and have a straight cut all the way through. My first cuts with them were always crooked though. The angle grinder is always a quick go to so no news there since we all have at least one or two or three of them. I don’t use the abrasive chop saw anymore but it’s my backup if everything else fails.

 

Just about finished Phase 1 of the trailer project, here it is pre-painted. @koditten I have your 2" pipe tie downs on there as well, thanks for the suggestion

 

Looks great!

 

I wouldnt recommend starting with a machine that old......

Also make darned sure that tank is privately owned. If not, and you go to get it filled, you'll be waiving bye-bye to it.