Tyler Lacasse's Supercharged 3RZ Dual Cased Fully Locked Long Travel Crawler Build

Sooo...

 

Cam tabs side by side comparison

 

Heck yeah. Driver side 100% done. Just need to grab some hose claps for the reservoir.

 

You can get some wide heatshrink to go over the hose clamps and not scratch the resi's.

 

Awesome idea on that. I'm not too picky about scratches, but why not! I have some heatshrink on hand that'll work.

 

Very first flex test.

 

wow I just kind of realized how much you cut out of the bedside and fenders...why so much? You're ready for like 40s haha

 

The biggest reason for that was when I took the Bushwacker flares off, the seals had completely wore off the paint to the metal in all spots. So I literally just took a grinder and traced the outer edge of the flares.

Planning on going 37 or maybe 38s down the road. I'm torn over an inch.

By the way Monte, on the MCM kit, did you run into any issues with your steering stops?

 

They will bite into the arm as the stops are on the lbj. But aren't long enough. I have a couple of grooves in mine from them hitting the lcas. Nothing major though.

 

Found a short term parking brake and feel a lot better about this over a line lock.

 

Found this Ready Welder II used off eBay for like 200 bucks if I recall. Tried it out for the first time and hands down this has to be the coolest thing ever made. I'll be able to help others that break down which I'm super stoked about.

Stupid cold on 12v for anything but ROARING HOT on 24v.

 

Wanted to share with you all exactly how I did my mud flaps, in case anyone with some bigger cut out flares or a flatbed wants to do something similar.

I used some tractor/semi mud flaps. You can do either straight cut or angle. They're also easy to cut on a table saw. Some are rubber, some are more of a plastic type material that is easier to wipe down. Kind of like a plastic cutting board, but flexible.

Then I got some hangers.




After that came some used Kenworth (but I think universal) hanger brackets. The stuff I got and have seen is all 1/2" solid steel.


There were two existing holes in my frame which matched perfectly with the bracket hole spacing. I shortened the hanger width and flipped the U to face up rather than down. Ended up using the ARC Welder as the steel is solid half inch thick, too big for the MIG. Planning on using a pin to retain them.




You can see how far away it is from my 35s. I am planning on most likely going 38s someday and this'll still have ample clearance.




Hopefully someone might find this useful for their build!

A heads up - I was strongly considering using some air line quick connects as a quick release setup, but any kind of strong pressure on them would most likely snap them, unless I had found some really large industrial ones.

 

Fenders inner painted black today. Came out looking more more "finished."

Also got my brake lines and proportioning valve all firmly mounted and bracketed. Going to be moving dual batteries under the bed. Cleaning up the rear harnesses right now and running new wires for rock lights under rear fenders and 10" mini light bar for backing up as I cannot see anything through my tint in the dark and it'd make for a nice little light if I'm working on something.

 

Where under your bed are you putting your batteries? What charging system you going with?

 

Looking to put them juuuust behind the arc where the rear axle swings up. In fact, it'll be butted up right against the "mid" (I believe) brace under there. I'll put some photos up as I'll probably do it after work today. My front fender keeps cracking with my current setup, and I would prefer to have my lighter relays and fuse box neatly there in an open easy access spot.

Other than a cutoff switch easy to access under there, not planning on any separation. As expensive as this project is, I don't really feel one is completely necessary for my use with duals, unless I came across a used one or something. Already have a high amp alternator I need to install too.

 

Right on, how do you wire both batteries without separating them? Also, does the cutoff switch cut one of the batteries or both? If it’s both, do you plan on using it often?

I built a pivoting tray to put mine pretty much in the same spot with the batteries sideways. Tucks pretty nicely close up to the bed and pivots down to service stuff and change batteries more easily while keeping them as tucked up as possible.

 

That is a hefty beautiful box you have going there!!

The cutoff switch I'll use is just a heavy duty rotational switch. All I do is wire the batteries in parallel which is linking the positives and the negatives together and just run one wire from them to the engine bay. Not sure where I'll stick the cutoff yet...

 

Some under truck shots to share with you guys
Looking at proportioning valve, battery box (battery will slide in from side), crossmembers I just welded in, and air compressor/tank.

 

Visual with battery. Good enough for tonight! Wiring tomorrow.

 

Cool little graphic design photoshop my sister whipped up real quick with my favorite colors.