Air compressor and AC bed outlet

Any reason I could not plug this into the AC outlet in the bed of my Tacoma? I went back and forth on a ARB and a Co2 system, but this will work well in the garage and I can stick it in teh bed of the truck if need be. I am not off roading a lot, and its not something that would live in mmy truck. I just want something protable and a way to run it when the power is out. I imagine at some point I will get a small bed mounted Co2 tank.

Makita MAC100QK1 Quiet Series 1/2 HP, 1 Gallon Compact, Oil-Free, Electric Air Compressor, and 18 Gauge Brad Nailer Combo Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H3SKQDN/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AUEUXQQV6YS3R&psc=1

 

It's about 300W, it would work

 

You really should find out the starting current draw - you've only got a bit over 3 amps at 120 VAC at the bed outlet (400W/120V). Google finds that a 1/2 HP electric motor draws about 9.8 amps at full load. The outlet in my Taco would not power an older refrigerator. I doubt it work well enough to compress much air.

 

That compressor is likely in the 6-8 amp range running 120 Vac. A little quick math Watts = Current * Voltage = 6*120 = 720 Watts.

You could reduce the current draw some by reducing the pressure setting of the compressor to about 90 psig. Although, it probably won't come down to the 3A or less level.

If you want a unit with some capability, look to the small "Inflator" type units. These are low power, low delivery, low pressure machines that are designed for light duty inflation jobs. Pretty much below 50 psig.

 

Wouldn't be very useful

 

No. Reducing air pressure will not reduce the load.

Running an inductive load (AC motor) on an inverter is bad unless you have a very pure sine wave. Good way to burn out the motor.

 

Yes, reducing the air pressure will reduce the power required. This is a fundamental in thermodynamics.

I've been in the air compressor industry for over 20 years. If you want to get technical I can.

Go review the equation that defines work as an integral of volume and pressure.

 

OK, boss.

Edit. Actually, yes. Please prove this....

 

ok...simple. YOU can prove it to yourself.

Bleed all air pressure from the tank.
Connect your Ammeter to the motor.
Close the tank bleed.
Turn on the compressor.
Watch your ammeter and pressure gage. They will increase together. As the current increases so will the Wattage. Electrical equation: Watt = Current*Voltage. Voltage will remain the same.

Technically, the Work equation that I referenced is based in Thermodynamics. It can be simplified to a very base algebraic equation.
W(work or Watt) = V (volume)* P (pressure) This is a simple form without unit conversions.

In this case, the compressor is rated at 0.7 cfm for Volume. This is constant because it is based on compressor piston displacement.
W is the work. P is pressure.
Hold the Volume constant. Work at 90 psig will be less than Work at 135 psig. This is the Work (Watts, Power) required to compress 0.7 cfm at these pressure states.

If you want.... the Electrical and Thermo equations can be set to equal each other because they both define Work in different terms
So, I (current)*V(voltage)=V(volume)*P(pressure).

I'm sure other engineers on the forum could pick this apart with details, but this has been highly simplified.

 

Totally wrong, but that's what I expected as a response. See below.

Back EMF (DC) = Applied Voltage - (Current through the motor x Resistance of the motor)

Not nearly enough differential to cause any significant amperage reduction. Not to mention, as stated previously, AC starting current is substantially higher anyway.

For extra credit, address what happens when an inductive load is run via an inverter.

 

Sorry, the motor is only the energy source.

The required power comes from the Work in the compressor needed to compress that volume to a specific pressure.

Any power source can supply the needed power.

You are beginning to define losses in motors.

Go back to your Thermodynamics......

Good night.

 

Shut up, nerds.

/s

 

Remember......Nerds designed and built your Tacoma.

 

and..... this is why I come here. Great conversation, really appreciate it. I am NOT a car guy anymore, and I can just stop by the forum and ask my nebbie questions. Can anyone recommend a unit that I could use at home and in my truck, something portable. The ARB stuff sounds great, but it really does not seem to be very durable. There are a ton of videos of guys just plan wearing these things out pretty quick. Again I am not off roading (airing up and airing down a lot), but I want something that will last. Buy once, cry once. Thanks in advance!

 

I’ve got an arb twin portable and arb single portable. Zero issues with either, they’ve been great.

if you want something cheaper, get the viair 400p automatic. I believe it’s still on sale on Amazon

I also have one of the

$116 Milwaukee m18 Cordless Lithium-Ion 6-1/2" Circular Saw - 2630-20 - ( MILWAUKEE ) - BARE TOOL

Milwaukee m18 compressors w/ tank which is pretty handy.

 

Ewww,l have to check this out! That'd be awfully handy at home, truck, and especially down at the farm.
Thanks!

 

I thought the Japanese and Mexicans designed and built my Tacoma.

 

Haha, Nerds come from all races, religions, etc.

https://youtu.be/sTDENzpW7tw

 

This is the one I’ve got

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Woodworking/Compressors/2840-20

I wasn’t really sure about having a battery powered compressor but battery life has not been an issue for me. It’s nice being able to go anywhere and no worry about power

 

Would the Milwaukee do ok pumping up tires?