Ebrake doesn't work?

And so it continues guys.... The bolts that secure the the brake line to the axle are rusted solid. I broke one in half. I tried using a left handed bit and number two spiral flute extractor. Ended up breaking the extractor.

So pretty much at this point need to drill it out and tap it. I'm wondering can anyone recommend a set of drill bits for metal? I have a big box of cheap ones but it takes forever to drill metal with them and they wear out quick. Might end up breaking the other ones too there's 5 total....

Heat would probably help.... I did try using a propane torch but had to be careful not to burn the wheel speed sensor wire. I used a heatshield because I couldn't get the stupid thing out of the way...

TLDR what kind of drill bits work best for drilling out broken bolts?

 

Broken.....
I'm really considering a "mini ductor" to heat up rusted bolts. Idk if i can justify the price but it looks awesome.

 

If you broke off the extractor, you’re pretty well screwed.

 

Nawww just gotta drill it out and tap it.
Or can just Jerry rig something or run the line straight and say f the support bracket.

 

Drill an extractor? That would be a good trick.

 

the tip broke off. I already got it out.

 

I have been successful in breaking up broken taps and extractors using a center punch and a BFH in order to get them out of the hole.

Too bad we don't have access to an EDM Machine to take care of these things.

 

Use mapp gas. It gets much hotter than propane. And a torch rated for it..

Pb blaster and kroil work very well.

Soak it, heat it, soak it...

Also try some new needle nose vice grips from under the stand off to turn it back and forth. If you try this route, do not leave them on while you are heating it up, lol

Good luck.

 

zip tie it back on.

 

Exactly what I've done for my front brake line on the spindle ...... For years now

 

Haven't had much time lately but anyways. Am I crazy or are the passenger and drivers side "ebrake arms" different?

See how the one accepts the other but on the other side its the opposite. Definitely confused me for a minute.

 

Passengers side.

 

From the shop manual:

 

I feel like i have the drivers on wrong now haha.

 

Technically MAP gas burns cooler, the heat it creates just transfers and *sticks* to the material better.

I know I'm being pedantic but I'm just trying to educate, not call you out or anything, ignore me if you wish.

As for OP, a carbide bur bit and a dremel work decently for high carbon steel extractors and taps, you'll never get them drilled out, the extractor and tap is always going to be harder than the drill bit, it will just chatter skip bind and then break something else off in there compounding your problem.

You axle sure looks cruddy, truck sees salt roads?

I wish you the best of luck in your fight.

 

Anyone have tips to re install the c clip? I got the passenger side clip back on really struggling with the other one.

Removing the big tranny c clip would give me better access. But idk if I should touch it. I put slip joint pliers on it and it wouldn't budge.

 

Could you circle the area in question I'm not seeing a C clip.

 

Ahh i got it. What a pain in the ass.

I was wondering if it was easy enough to remove the big c-clip.. Its right at the bottom of the picture.

The two smaller c clips (one is missing) are for the ebrake.

I guess its not a c-clip but a retaining clip.

 

Oh I see, the little flat stamped steel wave clips. Yeah, best way to reinstall is to use a pry tool to pull the gap open, start the clip then tappy tap tap them home.

 

success guys the damn ebrakes. work!!! Do I need to worry about adjusting them or so long as they engage all is good?