Tow hook on drivers side?

The problem with Toyota's factory options is that they don't say any more than it's for emergency towing for either option. It's also not consistent I think in different years. They don't mention the welded loop in my book at all and none of them provide any guidance to capacity.

 

Even less useful info in the 2017 OM. Basically echoing what was said above. Mainly flat towing, nothing about recovery.

 

It's such a crap shoot because even when they provide a rating it's not really clear what they mean.

Like BPF says "8250 lb rating" but how they got that isn't stated. I had one and it's certainly a big hunk of steel held in place with 3 x 12mm bolts. It's *probably* as strong as the subframe cross member insofar as it might be a toss-up which will bend first. But seeing those AMI points I'd trust them probably just as much.

ARB gives a rating in a round-about way by saying a maximum of 18,000 lbs strap or 4.75 ton shackle. So is it a 9,500 lbs rated point or 18,000 lbs? My opinion (completely unsubstantiated) is it's designed to tolerate 18,000 lbs because a 4.75 ton shackle that meets ASME B30.26 will have a 5:1 design margin (47,500 lbs) and a 2:1 (19,000 lbs) proof test. I assume ARB designed and simulated to a capacity and they do product testing. That's something I think is required in Australia.

I'm also not averse to using my welded loop for utility. My thought is it's got to be as strong as the passenger side options. But now seeing those AMI options has got the wheels turning.

 

I really like driving this truck but I swear modern vehicles just make me sad. After a bevy of Land Cruisers including a 70 series I feel like I'm driving one of those little kiddie battery Jeeps. Threads on TW don't help. "Which front grill makes the bulge in my pants look bigger??"

 

If only I had a welder. But along those lines, the left Demon Bracket with a plate up to the frame hole and a plate to tow hook holes should do anything short of a plate bumper.

 

Yeah, but we are comparable to the 2nd Gen. Sure, they did some good stuff, but we have a foundation that goes back to 2005.

As far as hardcore gets these days, what else is there? Wranglers and ZR2s? They both got their drawbacks. I get you though and am looking forward to the Taco lasting at least 20yrs.

 

I've never owned a 70 series but have owned a FJ40, a couple of mini trucks and a 4th gen 4Runner (supposed to be kissing cousins to a Prado). Seeing all the Cruisers we get including the 200 series I think they're all neutered. ARB makes rated recovery points for a lot of recent models from all brands for a reason. I'd say the 2nd gen and probably the 3rd gen are no better or worse than anything else at this point including Jeeps and Rangers. So many regulations for MPG and crash testing that they couldn't make a 40 for any market anymore.

 

That's what I was thinking. I wonder why ARB doesn't make a driver's side point now that I think about it.

I'm also not necessarily sure all bumpers with clevises are necessarily better. A good bumper will tie the recovery point to the frame and I'm not sure they all do. I'm pretty sure I've seen some that rely on the bumper to transfer the load indirectly.

 

I don't think the mount holes for the tow hook are there like they are on the right. Or, the welded loop is good enough? I haven't gotten in too deep yet since I am not looking for capability in the mud.


Yes. I agree. Some of the bumpers that I have seen, like the RCI in the rear, the clevises are the the parts that attach to the frame and pass through the plates. The RCI is on my wish list for the clearence with the integrated hitch and only about 20lb of addition weight.

 

Has anyone heard a report of damage done by using the factory OR passenger hook or done analysis of its strength beyond visual inspection?

 

There's one hole instead of three, so the resulting point would be reduced. But tying back to the frame would be better than nothing. Just be nice to have something tested and rated even if it's lower than the right side.

I have an All-Pro rear and that's all they did. Running the side plates from the mount on the frame through the face to tabs is the simplest solution.

 

Thanks for confirming.

Given the welded hook, just beefing up the crossmember to the frame with a thicker shear plate might do the job? Maybe a gusset or two at the loop connection to the crossmember? A 2nd Gen'er cut out the drop in the crossmember and welded it between the frame ends for a ton of clearence. A lot of work would be involved there including AC lines and possibly the oil filter and cooler? Neat idea though.


Agreed. It gives some confidence when the bolts are only reacting shear loads.

 

I have 2020 Tacoma trd sport non4x4…. Ok NON 4x4 off road…. Do they make tow hook front access besides the factory hook drivers side? Do I need to take plate off to install or is no option available??? Please any info appreciated