Anybody run JBA headers?

Post some part numbers for the studs when you get them. They don’t seem to have any specifically for the 5vz for exhaust manifolds.

 

i just bought some at the parts store. they are a common metric size

 

I’ll find us all the right ones, ARP gave me tons of freebies when I worked for SCE gaskets. I might have a few of the right ones. They are so much better than factory, even the ends of the studs are rounded to help not gauge the gaskets and the bolts go on like butta.

 

https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-2-4...Tm7vLPd7o1xp6bXU1mCwndTFd3mIoJNRoC428QAvD_BwE

This is what I used when I installed my OBX headers. Worked great and yotashop shipped fast.

 

What cat back are you running?

Also, are you running stock cats?

How are your omissions test?

 

I used 6 ply mls gaskets when I installed mine a few weeks back...........and they just started leaking. all bolts torqued to spec in the proper manner and are still tight. used brand new OEM hardware. I failed to check the flange before install and I have no doubt its not flat. Sigh, gonna have to pull them off and true the flange. lame. I bet this is why they include a composite gasket with the set. I put them in when I did the clutch so it was a breeze. So pissed I blew it on the flange. Ive done this on used parts but have never had to with BRAND NEW parts.

With the SC, small pulley, methanol injection, a decent exhaust and a way to tune, these headers are worth the trouble.

 

Anybody with a supercharger before adding the headers notice a drop in Boost? I’m hoping it will drop a point. Less boost is less heat in the combustion chamber. But you still added power.

Unless the RPM that the S/C runs at is what really makes the heat.

 

I called Magnuson

They said headers and cat back will drop boost. They will not guarantee anything outside stock application . That was the only help that they offered.

A guy at Toyo Tec has confirmed that having upgraded exhaust with a supercharger makes it safer for your engine and power is still there

 

zero loss in performance in any area. spiked at 11 psi before the headers, does exactly the same now. lots of non sense out there

 

You should follow up the install with blowing argon all over the exhuast it will find any leaks before you go through a heat cycle, ol school trick and not dangerous for fire but will throw soot all over the truck, but its worth it to have a sealed system (immediate gratification) you will feel more power regardless of what the haters say, most tap out after 1-2 hrs of wrenching. Shops charge for 24 hours at least for this install, no joke call some that have done it. Do it yourself like me and by morning you’ll feel like you crawled up Everest. After a good nap you’ll be burning rubber accross your city lmfao.

 

Dyno proof or it never happened, I don’t believe it or they have exhuast leaks and won’t go through it to find them!, that will cause loss of power or a feel of no gain.

 

You’ll have to find the correct thread size but theres nothing better than these gals as a huge upgrade. I am waiting on ARP for part #’s for us all, I had a set I gave to a buddy to get him rollin’ these are the real Kush... My whole engine is getting treated to everything they have, best bolts & hardware hands down, oem can’t come close.

 

That gauge reading at the pipe end?and is it even a wideband O2 ?If not your not getting a correct reading like I do at the dyno, I have two guys in Ca known for their skills. If in Ca pm me for secret dyno info to the Gods of tuning. They’ll tell you more than a dash full of gauges ever could. My friend Mr.Church was the only one in the world to make a special 1000 hp camry built by toyota run correct and the Japanese made the engine and car , and still couldn’t tune it for shit. My connect had them happy and surprised that some guy in Cali could do that.

 

I read about a neat trick that actually does work , that most guys have around what they would need and can do.

Take the shop vac and set it up to blow. Tape up the now blowing hose real good to the tailpipe and have a buddy cycle the on/off switch on the vac to pressurize the exhaust system as you hit all the joints with a spray bottle of soapy water, just like a boost leak test. This is quite effective. I found the switch cycling to be best to keep the pressure reasonable and keep the hose from blowing off so it does take 2 for this reason.

I did my JBA install when I did the clutch. This made it very easy plus I didnt have to go hacking up my OEM crossover pipe, which is a quality piece. Entire install of the clutch including trans R&I with headers went down in about 12 hrs total, on my lift, which is in my well equipped shop. I drained the cooling system, removed the dynamic tentioner from the SC install, and swapped the pitted/leaky thermstat housing in this time as well. Doing all this on the ground would have been rough for sure but on the lift really wasnt bad at all.

 

On my 2.7 4cyl which is running a TRD Supercharger I never noticed a drop in boost or performance after I installed a Header . When I called Doug Thorley Headers the tech I was talking to told me their Tri Y shorty design with merge collectors actually works very well in power adder set ups such as a Supercharger

This Doug Thorley header I'm running after the install I noticed much better low end torque plus more power up top

 

What good is a o2 sensor or any sensor after the pipe end if you’re measuring boost?

I have a stand-alone boost and AFR gauge for what it’s worth.

And as I’ve stated before after the removal of the cats I saw a slight drop in boost and a noticeable amount of low end gain.

 

You could check out dynojet performance they have a wideband O2 sensor, is what you want for ultimate tuning. Usually putting it on most reputable dyno shops settup they should have a O2 wideband that they use like smog setups, I bet your gonna have to fatten up the bottom torque curve to make up for leaning out with more flow. People don’t usually run a permanent one they use it to tune.

 

I already have a stand-alone AFR gauge...and no issues leaning out.

 

Hey Guys!
Just trying to get a definite answer here.
But are the JBA headers really just as good as the Doug Thorley's?
Was planning on ordering some Doug's this morning and found out that they were out of stock from the places that I usually order from.

And like every thread here on Tacoma world, everyone's got their own opinions.
But I would really like to know if the JBA's are really just as good as the DT's?

 

DT and JBA both have bad and good review. It comes down to what you want. I have JBA, no leak issue but fitment is not the best. A few guys I know run DT and fitment is nice but leak.

Take your pick and go with it.