Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

WTH!? I was banking on URD when it comes time, but this is just nuts. With the bite and feel, I can't see stock parts being the way forward.

 

I'm telling you!!

I'll be back with clear info when i get it.

 

So is the aisin clutch the consensus replacement when the time comes? I'm approaching 140k on my 2010 and I feel it's time to get one on the shelf for when the own let's go. Reverse in 4 low is already unhappy

 

I'm not sure what the 2nd Gen had, but I felt that there was more bite. On the 3rd Gen, the stock carbon fiber friction material should wear well, but has very little feel.

If you don't have issues, it might be worth waiting to see what URD is doing for the current issues?

 

Damn that sucks man. Good luck to you.

Just curious, you started having issues after you installed the urd kit?

 

the URD clutch. initially a spacer ring went bad or something, maybe a part fault. now need to open it to get it figured. tomorrow i think.

 

Shit. So did urd admit their fault and are helping you out somehow?

 

can't answer what the problem is, it's not open yet... tomorrow maybe.

 

Has anyone ever tried the

$17 ULTRA 1PLUS SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil, API GL-4

Ultralub GL-4 full synthetic gear oil from Amazon? Thinking about trying it out in my 2nd gen 5MT since it’s so cheap. Could always use it as a flush and fill with Redline if it doesn’t improve shifting. Gets decent reviews but nobody mentions Tacoma, so wondering if anyone here has tried it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088ZYPJQX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_WJYOFbPGEY63H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Just curious, what kind of mileage is everyone getting on clutches in 4cyl. 5spd. 4wd. Tacos?

 

got the diagnosis. this is for my URD stage 2 clutch with 12,000 miles. it has been installed with a new TOB, then opened again after six weeks with a failed wave ring spacer, and we replaced the TOB for the second time then. thought i was good to go. so i got on the road to Houston and back, about 1k miles of driving. shifting became a bitch on that drive, and i thought it was the fluid crapping out on me out of nowhere. i didn't notice any odd feel in the clutch pedal until i got her to the shop for new fluid. they immediately noticed the pedal felt off and i agreed, but i didn't notice it until that morning. he peeked in and saw the pressure plate fingers wobbling around all over the place. he kept the truck to open it back up and find out what's going on.

turns out the bolts that hold the pressure plate were backing out. why? no idea. OE torque spec on those bolts is 14lbs only. Gadget at URD also said 14lbs for his clutch. we aren't confident so we added a little more, but not a lot. the only theory we can come up with aside from an assembly issue is the solid motor mounts vibrated them enough to back out. but that is highly unlikely as NVH with these new mounts is not an issue at all. there's more, yes, but nothing that will do that, I'm pretty certain. that just leaves it at an assembly issue, that either the bolts were not to that light 14lb spec, or that the spec is simply not enough for the application.

no damage, no other issues. i definitely got super lucky with the timing (and I'm trying really hard to look at the bright side with all this) that the failure was imminent, and would have been big-time bad news if the pressure plate came fully loose, and that was probably gonna happen within another thousand miles.

trans is going back in now, flush & new fluid tomorrow. then on to my new can of worms, my exhaust problems. ugh. so, another thousand bucks for what's becoming the most expensive clutch ever, the URD stage 2.

@b3itz

 

Ffs you have the best luck.... Oof. Glad you caught it when you did!

 

thanks. there is a bright side, apparently. I'm gritting my teeth with all this but it got so so close to being infinitely worse.

 

I had a Stage 2 Competition Clutch installed in my truck about 4 years ago, the shop that did the work put the clutch plate in backward and it was toast within a couple weeks. I had been noticing issues with it (difficulty shifting, some godawful sounds during/after clutch engagement, etc) almost right away but was told it was normal for a performance clutch and to just let it break in.

Well, eventually it was undeniable that something was wrong and the shop was being very difficult with me, so I took it into Toyota for a diagnosis. They took it apart and found the plate installed backward. Original shop of course denied any wrong doing. It was a huge freakin headache and I needed my truck roadworthy asap, so I just had Toyota install a stock clutch while it was there and apart. Which of course cost me my first born child, on top of what I paid the original shop (who eventually reimbursed me for some of it). That was a clutch job nightmare and ridiculously expensive in the end, anyone that's gotten a dealership quote on a clutch job in CA can confirm lol.

 

wondering if i should create a thread about it. i don't want to drag URD through the mud, but i also want others to know the issues some of us faced. @b3itz any input?

painful. it's the cost & risk of going aftermarket. i accept it, but sometimes... dayum.

 

This sounds like a good situation for some red thread lock? Some heat on the PP down the road to loosen the fasteners should be NBD.

 

seems the low tq spec at 14lbs is to accommodate heat expansion but maybe more to it. the question is if red thread lock would be a wrong choice for it. do you know for sure?

 

Blue is usually low strength. Red is high strength. Given the hot area, it would be my choice. I have never touched an automotive clutch though.

Red typically requires heat to soften for removal.


Torquing with consideration for heat expansion typically involves looking at the heat expansion of the part materials involved. The fasteners may well clamp more with heat, but I am curious about the loosening problem to start with.

 

i asked him about that, it was our first thought. he was against that idea for these bolts. instead we added 10lbs, so 24lbs on them.

 

seriously. no answer can be had, unfortunately.

he was against thread locker for fears that damage on bolt removal, if that came up for whatever reason, could damage it terminally.