How to: DIY Wedge Camper

If you’re not in a rush, Im doing some testing on my 80/20 this weekend to make sure the 1.5” extrusion is strong enough for a roof rack. I doubt there will be any issues really but never know

 

Its the poly hinge from US plastics. it makes sealing the top of the door 100X easier. We will see if it hold up over time but it works and looks great. it also siffens up the door a bit. using several small hinges seems to make most peoples doors warp around the hinges.

 

I used one long piano hinge for each door. Added strength and no warping. Very easy to seal as well.

 

Where did you get your piano hinges if you don't mind me asking?

 

McMaster Carr. They have a bunch of options.

 

I also saw ace hardware hard 72in piano hinges, but likely more spendy ($20) than McMaster

 

I actually put in a order last night but its on hold right now because I thought I had a miter cut dimension wrong. I might just extend the 50" to 52". Along with going with a 3" sea to summit mattress that is 72" x 50".

 

I think the wider width would work well with the Exped.

 

Good evening everyone! Is anyone interested in buying a dclb ripcord camper minus the canvas? I've overbooked myself with projects coming up. I really dont want to let it go, but thought someone looking at this thread may be interested. Thanks Ripcord for showing us all how to do this; it's never a project I would have taken on without this thread!
PM me if you have any questions, that way we dont clog up the thread

 

guess that depends on what you want for it?

 

Location?

 

PM me if you dont mind

 

PM me if you dont mind

 

Folks that design the space frame in Fusion 360 , question to y'all.
Okay, say the frame is mocked up, you've got your measurements, angles and stuff. What's from there? Can you somehow just take them uprights and unfold and print them in real life size or something? Spent quite few hours but no luck, looks like you can only unfold sheet metal in that program.

Thanks all!

 

I just used fusion360 to get the mock-up and then took the measurement tool and got the angles and lengths to use with my miter saw. I didnt print anything out. Just set the miter saw up according to the inward and forward angles to create that compound cut.

Speaking of miter, I should have miter cut the top of the frame and bottom to seal the tubes, but these plastic end cap pieces worked awesomely. Just had to sand them to fit and then ample amounts of silicone in there to seal it up. Should be watertight as they are a tight fit + silicone. Ignore the run in the paint haha

 

Do you have a link for the end caps? Man I guess I should mock up in fusion to get those angles. Did you cut with a compound miter saw? I only have a normal miter saw so its a little more tricky I think.

 

The roof panel stiffens up the roof section alot. I had similar concerns - also using 1.5" extrusion. It was really floppy until I bolted the roof panel on and after doing so I think an extra stiffener is unnecessary.

 

Here they are

$11 Prescott Plastics 1.5" (38.1mm) Square Plastic Plug Inserts, Black End Caps for Metal Tubing and Fences, Glide Protection for Chairs and Furniture, Made in USA - 10 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1PWUMZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Again, I sanded down all 4 sides so they fit into the tube as a plug, rather than a cap like they come.

It's 100% worth it to buy yourself a harbor freight 10in compound miter saw for $109 for a project like this, it will speed things up for you.
I used this one And threw a Dewalt abrasive blade on it, which works good on the 0.065 wall tube, wouldn't recommend an abrasive blade for anything much thicker.

 

Rad, that's good to hear.
Ended up deciding on making a roof rack attachment too so that'll help too, but glad to hear it works without one too.

Thanks.

 

Yeah I was debating getting a drill press from harbor freight too for all the holes to drill. Trying not to buy too many tools I don't expect to use often.