The Tacoma Towing Bible

You may want to look in the suspension forum

Paul

 

Just had a quick question...

Any reason to go with a genuine Toyota wiring harness over a Valley, Curt, or other harness? The Toyota is twice the price, just wondering if there are any pros/cons to that route.

 

Guys I am stumped, 07 TRD off road, towing package, 6 speed
Double cab. Found my factory harness damaged, replaced it
No power at my 7 pin plug, swapped the relay with my
Fog light relay still no power, fog lights work. I do not have
A brake controller how do I get power to my 7 pin so I can
In turn power my 7-4 pin adapter? Thanks for your help

 

Just a few more questions for us to better help out. Which function is in-op? Do none of the Stop/Turn/Tail and constant 12V+ circuits work? or is it just one of them. I can't recall any 7-4 adapter needed power to operate correctly (If you have a special one, advise).

The only thing I can think of that should be checked before all else is some fuses under the hood, in the fuse block. First one is labeled ['Towing Tail' 30A]. There is a diagram on the underside of the cover. This would render the tail lights/running lights circuit in-op only, and the turn signals will operate as designed. The second is labeled ['Towing' 30A]. This one will in-op all stop/turn signal functions, but the running lights will still work. Also check the fuse labeled ['BATT CHG' 30A]. This won't affect any of the S/T/T functions, but if any of the other two fuses are trash, this one might be as well.


Edit: I just remember that you may have one of the adapters that light up when the running lights are on, if it fails to light up, the TOWING TAIL fuse is at fault, as long as the fuses were in fact blown.

 

I did check the fuses already, they are all good, however the only thing that works with the trailer hooked up are the stop lights, no running lights or turn signals, i hooked a battery charger to the trailer and the trailer wiring is good, i hooked the same 7-4 adapter to my 06 4Runner with the trailer and everything works, so as you see i am in a bit of a pickle. Swapped the relay, i am about to go under the left kick panel as this is where the "T8" listed on the wiring diagram is and check it out for power, it could be something as easy as a pushed pin however the dealer, i am so pissed, the truck i months over 3 years and at 30k miles and no warranty your done pay up so i will take this up with the area Toyota rep....
Any thoughts let me know.
Jet

 

Hello. Brand new to this forum. I recently purchased a new 2010 Tacoma Access Cab, two wheel drive, with the 2.7L, and 4 speed automatic transmission. I added an aftermarket class III hitch, Firestone airbags, seven pin wiring harness w/electronic brake controller and a small canopy. I want to purchase a new 2011 CampLite 13' ALL ALUMINUM travel trailer with electric brakes. The manufactuer's specs say the dry weight is 1,500 lbs, with a 1,000 lb cargo capacity, and a tongue weight of 150 lbs. I plan on towing this trailer all over the place (not fulltime but, at least a a couple of times each month) It will be just my wife and myself and we will travel very light (minimal clothes, toiletries, two sleeping bags, paper plates/utensils, etc--probably no more than 400 lbs total to be stored in the trailer--keeping the total weight of the trailer to approximately 2,000 lbs). I know my max tow capacity on my Tacoma straight from the dealer is 3,500. But with the way my Tacoma is now setup, should I even be considering towing this particular trailer even though I will be approximately 1,500 lbs below the max tow rating? If it sounds as though this trailer will not be a problem, then I was also wondering if I should install an aftermarket transmission and oil cooler, as well as upgrading the battery and alternator (which I really don't want to do unless absolutely necessary). I don't want to cause future/potential problems with the installation of the coolers if it is not necessary. I know it sounds as though I should have purchased a V6 Tacoma with the two package to begin with but, I really had no intention of towing anything other than a little utility trailer for lawn cuttings, etc. Plus, I got such a good deal on this little Tacoma I could not pass it up. With all this said, if it sounds as though my current Tacoma will not be able to "adequately" tow this little travel trailer, then I simply won't. Any and all input will be appreciated.

Thank you,

Joseph

 

Being as you'll be around 1,000lbs under tow capacity I'd say you'd be fine. You probably don't even need the trailer brakes, but it won't hurt to have them! Although with that added draw on the electrical system you might want to think about upgrading at least the battery. Or perhaps have a second battery in the trailer, and the truck just maintains the charge. I don't know what the draw is, but you might notice lights dimming when you hit the brakes if you keep just the smaller stock battery. So if you can wire a second battery in the trailer to run the brakes, and activated and charged by the truck it would be better. Not to mention if you have any lights in the trailer. You could run that battery low without killing the one in the truck.

Tranny cooler wouldn't be a bad idea. I don't think they cost too much to install. You can't monitor tranny temp to know if that's over heating. At least you can monitor the engine temp and take a break if needed, and skip an oil cooler. The tranny, however, could overheat and you wouldn't know until it was too late.

Edit: Tranny cooler would be a good idea if you have a lot of hills to climb. I see you're in Oregon. That's fairly mountainous isn't it?

 

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Grasshopper ... you exhibit much wisdom ...

.

 

Totally disagree. It is safe to pull a travel trailer with the Tacoma.
I pull a 19' airstream 1000s of miles every year. It certainly does not do it nearly as well as a 3/4 ton diesel, but it does just fine.
Basically all you have to do is realize there is a trailer back there..

Take precautions, don't try to drive it like your in a NASCAR race.

Be aware of what's happening ahead. maybe it's because I spend lots of miles on a motorcycle, and tend to drive a little more aware than others, but pulling a big trailer with a Tacoma is just not that dangerous or difficult...

Flame away...

 

I am, and always have been a conservative driver. Towing at 55 in the slow lane is fine with me (no power vacationing). Down-shifting to 3rd or even 2nd on hills would be alright also. Has anyone here looked at the CampLite trailers which I hope to purchase/tow? Here is their website: http://www.livinlite.com/camplite-overview.php. Remember I am looking at the 13' one. Right now my highway milage is approximately 27 mpg (remember I am a conservative driver). Can I expect with my 2.7L and towing this 2,000 lb trailer to drop down to maybe 12 or 15 mpg?

Thank you for the comments up to this point.

Joseph

 

THat is a nice little rig!!

Your Taco should pull it fine but as mentioned you may want to put a trans cooler on and do your homework on the current draw to see if your truck has the current needed to run the trailer lights and brakes. I pull my Rockwood Mini Lite at 3700#, give or take a few hundred #'s, with no problems. I do have the V6 but the trailer is heavier than what you are looking at. As far as the Taco being a knife in a gun fight, well it is one hell of capable knife for what it is. Your truck will be working but that is what it is meant for. I once had a VW passat wagon with a 1.8T gasser that I pulled 1200# pop-up, 4 people the dog and all the crap that goes along with that. I was at or near the 2400# max for the car and it pulled just fine for 10 years. Your Taco will do fine. Get the rig, hook it up and have fun camping using your own best judgment. Toyota set the tow limits for a reason. If you abide by them you will be fine. The only thing you may consider is a sway control. Pull it first then decide if it is needed.

As for the MPG, you'll just have to wait and see. It all depends on weight, terrain and wind. I get 10.3-10.7 with my V6 regardless if I'm in the mountains or in the flats.

Note. Use the brakes on the trailer. Your truck has a max cargo weight of around 1100#(guess). In my manual it says to use trailer brakes with any trailer over 1000#. These ratings are base on the trucks brakes ability to stop the rig. It's also Toyota's CYA

Paul

 

I want to thank those of you who have responded to my original post about towing a 13' CampLite all aluminum trailer with my Tacoma. I have decided to to go ahead and purchase this little trailer and enjoy it, as well as my new Tacoma. You know, I really love this little truck but, what surprises me is how much my wife loves it. She enjoys driving it more than our 2010 Prius, although we both agree the 52 mpg we have been averaging for the past ten months in the Prius is wonderful!

Again, thank you for the information and opinions.

Joseph

 

Cool! Show some pic's of your rig when you get it hooked up.

Paul

 

Wonderful write up maverick. Now if idont have a trailer to hook up and check brakes..could i put a multimeter at 7pin and check the voltage..which leads do i look for ..??
BTW what bike is that..on your signature..yamaha radian..??

 

The bike on the left of my signature is a 1993 Honda CB-750 Nighthawk. (with more money tied p in custom paint than it's worth LOL) The bike on the right is a 2006 Specialized S-works Tarmac e5.

Yes, you can check voltage with a multi-meter. Pin lay-out is a follows as you sit behind the truck looking at the connector.

Center pin is auxiliary (Wire color should be orange) (typically used for back-up lights if the trailer has them)
1 o'clock pin is tail lights (wire color should be brown)
3 o'clock pin is left turn (wire color should be yellow)
5 o'clock pin is ground (wire color should be white)
7 o'clock pin is electric brake (wire color should be blue)
9 o'clock pin is right turn (wire color should be green)
11 o'clock pin is 12v charging circuit (wire color should be black with red tracer)

Hope that helps,

Adam

 

Not sure if this is the right thread, but the girl and I are looking to purchase a pontoon. I've seen that at least one person here is pulling one, but I still have some concerns. We're looking at a 21' Suntracker. It's a good amount under my max tow weight, I have a 09 O/R V6 6spd 4x4, but it has a 8' or 8.5' beam, so the size of the thing is what worries me. I'm concerned about the truck towing something that much bigger than it. I can drive safely and take every precaution, but is this to massive of an object to pull? Especially with the way potoons sit on the trailers.

Thanks in advance for the help
Scott

 

I think you will be okay as long as you are under your tow limit. In my experience from towing my parent's pontoon, they tow very heavy from the amount of wind resistance. So I would try and tow it on the expressway and see how it handles the wind before purchasing. If the wind is blowing you all over and you dont feel safe, then maybe you need something a little heavier. If the back of your truck is sagging low get air bags/AAL/TSB. The first time I towed my newer boat was horrible. I was sitting on the frame for the 3 hour drive home. After my AAL it is so much more stable and a more capable towing vehical.

 

Thanks MAXTacoma for the answer.

I have another question also. One or two axle trailer? And what is the benefits of one or the other?

Thanks again
Scott

 

Well it really just depends, tandom axle trailers, trailer better down the road. By this I mean there is less sway back and forth and trail the pulling vehical better. Single axles tend to go side to side more, less stable at speed. Some people thing that its easier to back up a single axle, but I disagree. Tandoms for me are easier to back up. Honestly to me the only advantage of a single axle is you only have to replace 2 tires instead of 4. I would prefer a tandom, but my boat trailer is a single and it gets the job done. Tandoms also have the capability of having both axles w/ brakes which really helps braking. Single only one axle. Its really just preference and what you feel the most comfortable with. With a pontoon of that size, I would go with a tandom. It will be more stable at speed. W/ my boat and trailer (about 5500lbs) being only a single axle, it tends to get a little less stable at about 65-70. GL and post pics of you boat it you buy it.

 

A weight distributing hitch would help rear sag too I think. And you can get ones with sway control bars. I think I've seen them go for around $300, but it may be worth if you plan on towing it a lot.

These trucks are light weight so you want a little more weight toward the front of the trailer. If the balance it toward the rear they sway like crazy, but too much forward and you'll be close to the bump stops the whole time (without airbags or WD hitch).

I have AAL's in mine and was still an itch off the bump stops a couple times. Of course, I was also towing a U-Haul auto transport with a full-sized Ford on each time.