3rd Gen or 4x4 Conversion?

Having done quite a few swaps of all kinds over the years.

I have learned your far ahead buying a complete donor vehicle most everything you need will be there. I understand space can be a limiting factor .

So much time can be wasted running after or fabricating simple little things that are seen as not important when buying parts one at a time. Off the top of my head special Hardware and brackets etc cross member new transmission mount .

Best of Luck !!

 

What have you done in the past with the donor vehicle once the swap is done?

 

I would part it out. That way you can recuperate your money.

 

In most cases I had a few projects going so what was left went for scrap .It sure was not going any place by itself .

I never cared for the parting out myself you can`t make enough to pay someone to do the work.

It is not bad if you have a local market anything heavy the shipping kills most deals

 

If space is an issue you could always just put certain parts on first and not worry about messing anything up, for instance if you did the transmission and drive shafts last you could do the transfer case, cv axles, and spindles without having to hook anything up yet then wait til you find a transmission. I converted my 00 prerunner to 4wd in about 2 days, hardest part was finding all the parts and that took like 2 years for me. I did the electronic front diff with J-shift transfer case then just supplied power to the diff to always have it locked, and then I would just use the J shift to actually lock it into 4wd. I never ran into any issues with it like that.

 

Where did you get your cv axles and spindles. I've heard that's best to buy new?

 

Read above (post 47)

You can buy all the parts new in order to use your current spindles.

The wheel bearings and all else are the same for Prerunner and 4x4.

Only difference is the axle hub itself, not to mention the manual hubs themselves which as mentioned, can be purchased new.

Spindles are hit or miss when you're sourcing used ones, but they'll turn up. What sucks is if you go used, you don't know the condition of the wheel bearing really so it's best to use new parts on your own setup. Not to mention having the abs bracket or not on the spindle (just a tab really).

OEM reman axles are the best way to go; most dealerships carry them but you could also buy a used set and rebuild them since the parts are available.

 

I found someone on here that was selling all his front end stuff after an IFS conversion. For ease of install I’d say just buy the 4wd spindles and not bother trying to press yours out or anything. Sure you can order brand new but I’m assuming you’re trying to save money with this conversion.

 

If he goes used, sure. But then you're chancing the condition of the inner components.

New spindles though run $568/per MSRP (or about $454/per discounted through Camelback); these won't include the inner parts either.

Hence the suggestion of using his own spindles that are on his truck, and replacing the inner components with the appropriate axle hub for manual hubs.

 

From the list on this pic (why is it a pic?-just post a list on here so we can copy/edit/paste it with you), it is clear that you need to keep reading a bit. Some of the items on the list are redundant, and some of them are not quite named correctly (i.e. whats commonly called the "spindle" is actually the steering knuckle--they are basically used interchangeably around here and you've got both listed as different items. And the "TC" is actually "transfer case".) I highly recommend reading through all those threads that have been posted. I also highly recommend downloading the FSM (factory service manual) from the wayback machine--theres threads on here on how to do that.. Really get familiar with what parts are named etc. It will make it easier for you to understand what is needed, and how it all goes together.

So as for the conversion, here's my thoughts for yours. I would look at the conversion kind of in 2 parts: the "transmission and transfer case" and then the "front axle".
So for the trans and tcase:
1) as stated, your year is "drive by wire" (i forget the technical term) --the reason this relates to this swap is the drive by wire system controls the shifting on the auto transmission.
2) in order to get a transfer case into your truck, there are two options: tear down your current transmission and replace the 2wd output shaft with a 4x4 output shaft and find a tcase and bolt it on, or, find a complete already-together-take-out of a transmission and transfer case. Unless you know how to tear down an auto trans and swap out the shaft yourself (or have access to someone who does), it is most likely going to be more cost-effective and way less work to find a trans and tcase combo together. If you do swap out the whole trans and case, this is where you will need to find an auto trans from the same "drive by wire" years of 03-04.
3) There is a couple different variations of transfer case that were available for the Tacoma--the easiest option to use is the "j-shift" tcase. It is fully manual with no electronic or vacuum actuators at all on it. Its easy to identify based on its "J" shifting pattern and NO button on the side of the tcase shift knob (and no actuators hanging off the back of it.) Also try to get one with the shifter and knob or you need to track them down separately. If you don't get a manual j-shift case, then you also need to wire up the tcase actuators.
4) transmission cross member and transmission mount. Double check this for sure, but I think you need the 4x4 trans cross-member. But you for sure definitely need the 4x4 trans rubber mount.
5) speed sensor. The prerunner speed sensor is on the rear tail housing of the trans, the 4x4 one is on the tcase. The prerunner wiring is too short to reach and will need extended. You also should make sure the tcase you get has the speed sensor in it still. (This could always be fixed after the fact if necessary)
6) trans tunnel. The trans tunnel (body section above the trans and under the interior shifter console) will need to be cut open a bit. There is a flange needed that can be used to justvtrace onto where the hole needs cut. Then you need a boot on top of that and then you need the 4x4 specific interior console shifter surround.
7) driveshafts. The prerunner driveshaft (for the rear axle) is too long for re-using with the tcase in place. You will either need to have it shortened or re-tubed to length, or find a used rear driveshaft out of any 1st Gen 4x4 double cab or extended cab. Then you will need a front drive shaft from any 1st Gen Tacoma 4x4 or 3rd gen 4runner.
8) 4x4 dash light. Wire up your dash light to indicate 4x4 when shifted to 4hi and 4lo. (Or whatever your case needs)

The front axle.
1) determine if you want to go ADD (automatic drive disconnect) or manual hubs. ADD will be easier to find used "take off" parts. But manual hubs is "easier" in the sense that there is no electronic (or vacuum) actuator to worry about. ADD arguably has a stronger CV. Maunual arguably has less "wear and tear".
2) front differential. You can get this from any 1st Gen 4x4 Tacoma or 3rd gen 4Runner *but* you have to make sure it has the same gear ratio as the rear differential. Your prerunner should have came stock with 4.10 gears in the rear. Verify what you have, and find a match. For the actual diff, it really doesn't matter if its ADD or manual diff, but to make it easier, I would just look for the type that you want to go with. (Otherwise you have to screw with the diff side tube--not terribly hard, but its added work to worry about).
3) CV axles. You need ADD or manual hub specific. Need two of them--one for each side. They are not side specific.
4) knuckle (spindle). If youre going ADD, you need ADD specific knuckles. If you don't get a known-good set, then you may want to replace the bearings and seals. Up to you. (Probably a good idea). *BUT* if you DO need to replace the bearings and seals, you will want to understand that *technically* the prerunner spindles are *identical* to the 4x4 spindles--they just have a block off plate pressed in instead of the 4x4 hub. So if you're replacing bearings and seals (probably the best idea) you may be better money spent just buying new hub bodies (NOT THE SAME AS HUB LOCK OUT) along with the new bearings and seals. The hub body is pressed into the knuckle with the bearing. The hub body is the part that spins that the wheel actually bolts on to. The hub body is specific to either ADD or manual hubs. You need two--one for each side. You could also buy used knuckles with intent to harvest only the hub bodies out of them to use for yours--whatever costs less and/or is less work. Also, if you have ABS (and are keen on keeping it), pressing the manual hub body into the ABS spindles is virtually the only way to keep ABS with manual hubs. No manual hub trucks ever came with ABS.
5) hub lock outs. If you are going manual hubs, then you'll need the manual hub lock outs. You can use OEM aisin ones or warn ones. You will also need the various hub studs, washers and nuts and associated gaskets.
6) ADD. If you went with ADD, you need the CV end washers and nut and then the dust cover. Then you need to wire up the ADD actuator that's on the differential side tube. Some folks permanently lock it (this causes your front driveshaft to be always spinning while driving) or wire it to the tcase for when it shifts to 4x4 or wire it to a button or something so you can engage the ADD when you shift to 4x4.

FWIW, there is a manual hubs conversion kit available from ORS. This would cover all you need for the knuckle, hubs, CVs, and lock outs. https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-manual-hub-conversion-kit/

I converted my old 2002 prerunner double cab a few years ago to 4x4 and went manual hubs and j-shift case. I did it all for around $1000. It really isn't too bad, but you really need to be familiar with what you're doing or have someone helping you that does. Its definitely worth doing if you intend to keep the truck long-term and can do a bunch of it yourself.

Also, 3rd gens suck. So do 2nd gens. Its all about the 1st gen!

 

Some helpful videos:

https://youtu.be/TZ2sOfVrnhU

https://youtu.be/1TpOYj0sUpA

 

I helped my friend convert his 2wd 2001 PreRunner Tacoma to 4wd. We pulled the transfer case, front diff, and front drive shaft out of a junkyard 4runner and he bought CV axles and hubs.
It was a LOT of work, but it obviously improves the truck a lot.

 

Do you recommend the hub conversion kit?

 

I love the manual hub conversion for the reason that it saves some wear and tear on the front end, but I also admittedly love it for the coolness factor of manual hubs sticking out of the wheels.

 

Stay looking on Craigslist, FB Marketplace, the BST section here and in TTORA if it’s still operational. I bought a tacoma for $400 once off a guy in VA cause it had a small rust hole in the frame and he wanted to get rid of it. Just gotta keep an eye out.

 

I wish, I would love that

 

Does it matter what wheels you have?

 

Yes - some wheels have a lip on the inside to hold a hub cap like all SCS wheels except the F5's I think. Being in that situation Vin told me that I could take a hole saw and cut the lip out.

 

Yeah also note that you will be limited to lugcentric spacers, if you use spacers. Some people modify hub centric spacers, but yeah that's a pain.

 

FWIW all the hub ring does is hold the wheel while you mount and torque the lug nuts. All Taco wheels are lug centric since they all use a conical lug nut that centers around the lugs if properly installed in a star pattern and most likely even if they’re buzzed on in a circle with an impact.