Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

When we install these switches for customers we like to use a blank location to the left of the steering wheel, but we have also mounted them under the HVAC controls. Next to the ATRAC Switch Both stops require a small amount of trimming of the hole that the switch goes into. Usually we do that with a Dremel, but I have also done it many time with just a file. Just go slow and try to fit the switch and work the areas that still need trimming. You can NOT trim the switch down nor can you really swap the switch without losing a function of locking the ACR Off. In Matt's personal 2015 he has it mounted in the Center console, but that isn't what we recommend if you want to monitor the lights to see if any fault codes developed. Or to use the switch super easily.

If you don't to trim I am sure someone out there makes a bracket, likely similar to the Paranoid fab Contura 2/3 mounting switches as that is the size of the Blue sea switch.

 

I ended up putting mine here. If you don’t mind losing the coin holder it could be an option for you. One thing you might want to consider is having the red light staring at you all the time which can be annoying. I didn’t want that but wanted easy access to the switch if needed. The ML-ACR pretty much a set it and forget it switch. In all honesty I don’t think you will be using the switch much at all.

 

Oh shit I like that idea. Im assuming thats a custom panel you made yourself? What does the other switch do?

And just to clarify, my system is fully installed and Ive been using it for the better part of two years now. Always use the switch when Im camping as I dont have solar or anything, so I open it when camping, and close during the day to charge. Im finally getting around to moving to switch to a permanent location thats all.. Im good at procrastination haha

 

Doesn’t the switch (ML-ACR) automatically separate your batteries when the house starts drawing a load?
Yes, home made panel out of plastic. The two silver screw looking things are little thumb knobs with tiny latches on the back side for easy access to the fuses. The other switch is for the volt meter above it, toggle one way for start battery and the other way for the house.

 

Thats awesome. Really clean solution. I will likely end up trying to replicate something similar.

And yes, in Auto mode the ML-ACR will do its own thing. But Im OCD and like having manual control over things haha

 

Thanks so much for the info! Once I make up my mind about which batteries I'm going with, (2x group 35s, 1x 35 and 1x27F, or 1x 35 and 1x 24F) I will get my order in to you guys!

Cheers

Nick in VT

 

I look forward to seeing your order come across the production table! Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions or are looking for any battery information.

 

After some investigation...lol. This setup was done by @Audiomobilehayward in Oakland, and yes they did relocate the starting battery to the bed. In place of the original battery is a half keg of beer with a tap. LMAO. Kidding.
Zim

 

Im going to make my own electrical panel to bolt things to. That one that was posted, was $340. Too much for me right now. I found a piece of 5052 Aluminum 52x18 1/8" thick for $61 shipped. Some trimming required. Ill order that next month some time. Still deciding on a RedArc or Ctek. Id also want to buy a crimper, soldering tools, etc so I dont just butt crimp everything. I want this install to be clean

https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/5052aluminumsheet

 

Cool find on that aluminum sheet

As for Redarc vs Ctek. They're both similar, with similar charging profiles etc. Now, Ctek pushes out 20 Amps which is good for batteries up to 100Ah. Redarc pushes out 25 Amps, and I think it can support slightly bigger batteries (can't remember the size). Also there's the 40Amp version of Redarc, in case you'd want to go nuts with multiple batteries

 

I should look up the Ah of my battery to make sure. Its a $90 group 24

 

That info is aimed more at group 31, which are 100~105 Ah. So, Ctek 250 is at capacity with one g31.

 

Awesome. I get my aluminum from Metal Supermarkets. Good folks and will cut it to size if needed. I've got a bead roller and brake so I have a lot of fun with these. The first one is in a friends mustang and second will be in mine.
Zim

 

very clean! Im looking forward to starting that project in the spring. Not really looking forward to the wiring though

 

Do you have any worries about the electrical components shorting out to the metal substrate? Is the substrate grounded so that your fuse will disconnect the circuit when a short occurs? I installed my setup on a wooden substrate, but I worry about fire risk. I mounted my solar controller on a piece of aluminum as a heat sink / shield as it is the item that gets the most hot in the summer.

 

No not really. It will be painted but that does not prevent a short to ground. As with any addition to a vehicle, ya got to look at it and make sure it's okay every now and then. Maintenance is the key to everything. Now a accident is a different story. I've been in a rollover and the last thing I worried about was the battery..LMAO. You're right tho, it's food for thought. A good install is the key. If it looks like shit, buy 2 fire extinguishers, not one. LOL
Zim

EDIT: your wiring job looks great. I'd paint or stain the board too. Awesome.
Z

 

Wiring sucks canal water. But when it's finished I'm sending pics to everyone with a pulse. Ahahahahahahahhahaha.
Zim

 

Why are the breakers on the negative cables?

 

My battery disconnect is on the negative. When you disconnect a battery, pull the neg first, then the pos. Truest way to shut shit down.
Zim

 

But shorts on the positive cables won’t surge the breakers and trip them. They’ll only trip on over current surges that aren’t due to short circuits.