HIDs,Body lift, 5100s all kinds of questions

background: i have an 03 x-cab trd sr5 with the 5100s and 881s with and 1.5 aal. ontop of that is a 3in body lift.grey wire, diff breather ect. diff drop and BPV on thier way.


heres a few questions for you guys for few different things. i realize some of these have been answered and trust me i have done my fair share of searching. basically im trying to justify the cost and labor in these projects

1. HIDs: what company do you suggest? i keep getting mixed reviews of DDM. i would like to get h4hi/low at 5000-6000k how do i know if/what kind of harness i need?error eliminators? adaptor cables?

2. body lift removal. anybody got any tips? i have all the hardware from toyota wating for me to do it. i just really dont like the ugly gap and that my bed is like a sail when its windy

3. with the body lift removed what will most likely be needed to be trimmed for fitment of 285/75r16with 4in bs? i know of the pinch welds and some plastic but i heard of having to trim body mounts?anybody have any write ups on that?

4. has anybody ran the billes at the mid setting with 881s? if so hows the ride? im looking for about 1/2-1 more lift in the front. hows the angles of your cv?

5. any suggested mods? im laid off for the winter and going stir crazy. dont say deck plate mod im kicking myself everyday for not getting the stock box from the guy i bought the truck from.

 

There are a lot of people on here who have trouble with DDM tuning HID kits from what I hear. If you would like a set, get in on my GB. My kit comes with everything you need and it's all plug n play with no cutting or splicing. My kits also come with a one year warranty. The link to the GB is in my sig.

 

PM'd

 

"2. body lift removal. anybody got any tips? i have all the hardware from toyota wating for me to do it. i just really dont like the ugly gap and that my bed is like a sail when its windy"

I removed my 3 inch body lift this past summer, I did the box first then the cab.
The box was pretty straight forward, I disconnected the gas filler neck then cut the hoses to the right length later. Four of the bolts are blind so its best to soak everything with lots of penetrating oil so you don't break them but on a newer truck shouldn't be much of a problem. I took off a filler piece that was above the rear bumper and with everything disconnected and unbolted I just knocked out the spacers, first one side then the other and settled the box down into its proper place and bolted it back together(make sure you get the right size bolts for the blind spots)

The cab itself was more detailed but not too bad. I undid all the mounts and used wood blocks to replace the spacers, then I unbolted the radiator and removed the little extenders that came with the body lift kit and I unbolted the shifter arm for the automatic tranny right at the tranny, and spent a lot of time taking off the steering column extender as it was the wrong spline for the shaft. Once everything was disconnected I started lowering the cab one inch at a time by using smaller wooden blocks. At each step I check for anything binding anyplace and carefully squeezed the curlycues on the breaklines together as I when. Important thing is to go slow and check for anything binding or bending. The biggest problem was the connection from the steering column to the rack, the extended pieces that was on as I said was the wrong spline so I had to slowly hammer it off from the side then I had to find the proper one at the local scrapyard, you'll want to be careful when you line it up as well.

So mostly its just being careful and taking your time but with the new polyurethane body mounts it even seems to ride better and certainly looks better

 

good decision on removing the body lift! rep

 

Ddm tuning has a lifetime warrenty..and only a few people have had issues..many people are happy with the kit

 

just went with TBK224's GB save me the time of trying to figure out what i need.

 

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