Long Travel BS Thread

Strut brace just goes up and over connecting the shock towers. Engine cage usually is tied into a cab cage and provides much more structure and support of the frame as a whole

 

Ahh ok so even if I add extra bracing it would still be a strut brace until I add a cage.

Thanks

 

I mean you can call it what you want. The more structure the better it will be. If it “cages” the engine then I’d probably call it an engine cage. It’s just typical from what I’ve seen that when it comes to that point the vehicle has a cab cage to tie it into. The engine swap puts you in a spot where it may be beneficial to do the engine cage now and leave it able to tie into a cab cage at a future date

 

Putting something substantial from one coil bucket to the other helps to keep the frame from spreading at the motor mounts if you’re taking big hits - primarily this is what the engine cage is going to do along with creating upper mounts for suspension stuff like coilovers, bypasses etc. and making solid mounting points for accessories such as the fuse box, rad, etc. If you’re not going to jump or take huge bumps going fast or do big rock crawling runs just a coil bucket brace would be a good addition. I don’t have a bender and I added gussets to something my friend made out of .120 1-3/4 to keep it as resistant to flexing as much as I could.

 

its a 2017 because it takes him 3 years to build them hahhaha

 

I see the guy posted it on eBay but only got bid up to 130k so didn’t sell.

 

How is everyone securing their nitrogen bottles? I need to start taking my truck out to tune the shocks but don't want to head out without a bottle if need be.

 

Lots of mounts for co2 bottles that would give you an idea - what size is yours?

 

Nothing crazy, just a 20CFM bottle. Im wondering because I haven't caged my bed yet so I'm still using the stock bed and been making mounts for my fuel cell and spare tire.

 

No sense in tuning if you are going to be changing the weight distribution of the truck. Sure, you might get it better than it is now, but then you’ll need to change it all again when you throw a fuel cell and spares out back.

 

The fuel cell is already mounted and installed and the spare tire will be in the same place as it is now, but just a better mounting systen. Weight won't be changing for a year or so, I'm also doing all the labor anyways so I'm not worried about that.

It's kind of an odd build because I didn't want my truck blown up for 2 years in my garage, I would lose interest and I knew it would always be in the way at the side business so I broke it up into phases.

 

For what they’re asking there’s 2 better built trucks on dezerttrucks I posted in the classifieds - a first gen tundra and a white dcsb 2nd gen.

 

List these in the lt classifieds, I have that white one in there already. If people are smart (unlike me) they’ll buy a prebuilt truck.

 

Gotcha. Well as far as bringing the nitrogen bottle for tuning, are you just planning on adjusting pressures or revalves? I’d just leave it at camp to be less things to worry about bouncing around. Adjusting pressures will change things a little, but the real magic of tuning is in valving

 

The whole reason I'm asking is because I want to safely transport it to and from where I'm going, I don't want a 600 PSI bottle shooting out in an accident.

As for tuning I would like it with me for any possible adjustments on shock PSI on the fly. Also filling tires with nitrogen after airing down when need be is nice.

 

I’d check powertank mounts. They’re about the same size as what you have and any of those mounts should work.

 

Those were those co2 mounts I was referring to

 

When I carry a small gas bottle it goes in a tool box with other gear, which the gets strapped down securely in the truck. Don't over-think the problem.

 

Can anybody recommend a battery relocation kit?
Need to relocate my battery to the bed, and possibly dual battery setup.
Thanks