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Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by MJonaGS32, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. Nov 13, 2020 at 9:55 AM
    #2921
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    I see what you're saying. It may be floating. My battery until last week was not grounded to the truck frame. Solare guys want fuses on the neg side too. Have no idea why. I also notice they recommend attaching neg first which causes a spark with these solar installs. I'll wait for a pro on this one...lol
    Zim
     
  2. Nov 13, 2020 at 10:13 AM
    #2922
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    Just trying to learn something new here. I get the battery disconnect aspect though. Please tag me if you find out more about negative fusing.
     
  3. Nov 13, 2020 at 10:32 AM
    #2923
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    I will. Now you've got me interested..lol
    Zim
     
  4. Nov 15, 2020 at 8:27 PM
    #2924
    Hikerbox

    Hikerbox Well-Known Member

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    Considering adding a diesel heater to my topper to allow me to sleep in the truck in cold weather (<<0 F) for ski season and in a battery pickle.

    Heater is a cheap Chinese 3kw diesel model that draws 12A for 5-10 minutes on startup and cooldown and 1-2.5A once it's actually running. I would operate it for 12 hours at a time so figure 24A-hr draw to be on the safe side. Two nights use with 1-2 hours driving to charge between uses would be ideal. I don't have a solar setup and the usefulness seems questionable here during the winter between the weather and low sun angle. My truck also has the tow package with the bigger alternator if that matters (130A I think). Probably 15-20 nights per year of use.

    Ideally I could just use one deep cycle marine battery for starting the truck and operating the heater but not sure if I'm using too much power to be safe or damage one. I have a lead acid jump pack already that's rated to -10F.

    Seems like AGM and LifePO4 batteries can freeze if they aren't stored fully charged so those are out since the battery would draw down overnight and then be charged the next morning or afternoon depending on where I'm parked. Lead-acid is fine then, I do some mild 4wheeling but nothing insane.

    What does everyone think?
     
    Anton338 likes this.
  5. Nov 16, 2020 at 2:43 AM
    #2925
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    I’d rather have an electric blanket or mattress pad. Or an external system with an internal radiator.
     
  6. Nov 16, 2020 at 6:43 AM
    #2926
    Hikerbox

    Hikerbox Well-Known Member

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    The problem is drying boot liners and clothes from skiing. Also a heater would remove any condensation inside the topper.
     
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  7. Nov 16, 2020 at 6:59 AM
    #2927
    SR-71A

    SR-71A Define "Well-Known Member"

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    255/85/R16 Falken Wildpeak MTs, Mobtown sliders, ARB bar, SOS front skid, Icon RXT leafs, extended & adjustable Kings, JBA UCAs, OVS wedge RTT, dual AGM batteries, Gen2 xrc9.5 winch, CB, GMRS, S1 ditch lights...
    Ive run my heater off my aux AGM group 35 for well over 12 hrs before at a medium setting (-4*F when I woke up). Dont remember what the voltage was, but Im sure it would have still started the truck. And if you dont know, group 35 is smaller than the stock battery.

    If your jump pack is in good shape and topped off, you should be all set as long as it can handle the cold temps. Could also get a new AGM while you're at it and be good to go
     
  8. Nov 16, 2020 at 7:21 AM
    #2928
    Hikerbox

    Hikerbox Well-Known Member

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    So you're saying the stock group 27 starter battery would do ok? It does seem worth trying since I have a backup and could always upgrade to an AGM if it fails.
     
  9. Nov 16, 2020 at 7:25 AM
    #2929
    SR-71A

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    I think so. When I did some testing I saw about 8-9 amps on start up and 1-3A running depending on what setting.

    Like I said just make sure your jump pack all good to go (Ive had bad luck with the old school lead-acid ones in the winter)
     
  10. Nov 16, 2020 at 10:51 AM
    #2930
    Anton338

    Anton338 Ill-Known Member

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    Mostly electrical shit that nobody cares about.
    Whoa I need that. Stealing this idea for my build!!
     
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  11. Nov 16, 2020 at 1:41 PM
    #2931
    unclebuck

    unclebuck Well-Known Member

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    @Tacman19 - Do you have more details on your setup? I see you have a Renology setup. I recently bought a dual setup from Off Grid with the BCDC1225 but I think it will be up for sale after re-assessing my needs. I am looking at a BCDC1250 setup with 1 or 2 lithium batteries mounted behind the seats.
     
  12. Nov 16, 2020 at 4:45 PM
    #2932
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    I don't have a "proper dual battery" setup. I have the solar charger and a dual port battery tender I use to charge when not in use. I was headed for the dual but just don't trust the tech. (especially since 05 when vehicles started going to ECU voltage regulation) I've sold parts and repaired vehicles since 03 and I just don't have a warm and fuzzy with these high dollar setups. I know for a fact that if my truck battery shits the bed I can get back to civilization without a problem because they are NOT connected. I've used battery isolators on many installs and never seen a failure. But...I'm 65 and don't want to die in the woods...ahahahahahahahahaha.
    Zim
    EDIT; there is a video out there where a very high dollar rig and trailer failed (Expedition Overland) that could have effected a family of 5 including kids. It was embarrassing in my opinion that a $200,000 rig could not start. Turned out to be a loose connection on the battery but with 150lbs of zero gage wire under the hood....well you know. LOL
    Zim
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2020
  13. Nov 16, 2020 at 5:58 PM
    #2933
    unclebuck

    unclebuck Well-Known Member

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    I totally get your perspective. I have faith in the Redarc system for charging my aux batteries that are only going to be used for my NL fridge/freezer and perhaps a few lights. I also have a small portable jump starter that always is in the truck. Worst case, i break out the satellite phone and call in a favor.

    Off topic - I highly recommend the sat phone - I picked one up for a bargain from a business owner I know who was selling and was liquidating some of his DR/Business continuity items. Best $450 i ever spent - $600 a year for a 300 minute plan on the Iridium network. It is damn convenient.

    Thanks for your feedback!

    -Scott
     
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  14. Nov 17, 2020 at 7:06 AM
    #2934
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    I watch a lot of Australian overlanding videos and Redarc is the best out there. It's good money for sure. I've also got a GB40 jump starter but you've got to look at the battery every now and then too. Anything 4 years old I'm NOT taking to the woods. Every battery in the country is made be Johnson Controls and I've sold thousands. I'm changing that junk out at 48 months..Ahahahahahahhahaha.
    Zim
    And hell yes, I'll look at the SAT phone. I'm already interested in the Garmin Mini but I have all the maps and GPS I need in the Gaia map system and Dual GPS unit.
    Zim
     
    unclebuck[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Nov 17, 2020 at 7:17 AM
    #2935
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    Found it. This is a big money rig. Go to 7:20 in this video. Most of us would work this out but this is overkill on electronics in my opinion. Every imaginable device known to man is on this rig and the power management is nuts. Then this happens...lol
    Zim
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh4Kk8iAGw4
     
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  16. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:30 AM
    #2936
    unclebuck

    unclebuck Well-Known Member

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    The mini is pretty slick. I received one as a birthday gift...Never used it but my buddy has one and he likes it. I am debating what to do with it.
     
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  17. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:44 AM
    #2937
    SR-71A

    SR-71A Define "Well-Known Member"

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    Only downside to the mini is you have to have it paired with a cellphone as far as I know.

    The regular sized one is self contained so you can type messages using the rocker pad if you want

    What make / model is your sat phone while we are off on the sidetrack?
     
  18. Nov 17, 2020 at 9:11 AM
    #2938
    unclebuck

    unclebuck Well-Known Member

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    Sat phone is an Iridium 9555. Great phone and very happy with the quality of service. Most all of my camping, fishing and offroading is not in any cell coverage areas, so it is a small price to pay for safety and convenience.

    I just purchase a 300 minute annual pre-paid card every February. I cant keep the same number with this plan, but that is not important to me.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2020
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  19. Nov 18, 2020 at 4:14 PM
    #2939
    MapJunkie

    MapJunkie Well-Known Member

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    Indeed, my system is currently floating as my battery is in a separate bed buildout that goes directly to a ungrounded camper. I have been trying to figure out how to tie the camper together electrically. If I can do that, I may reword my system. I think it would be safer if I could ground the camper fully, it just isn’t designed that way..
     
  20. Nov 18, 2020 at 6:29 PM
    #2940
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    I think it would be safer. I finally grounded my system to the frame rail so it's all........ah......grounded...ahahahahha. I was getting some corrosion on the neg terminal with a lighter gage wire but this time I anchored it with a 4. No problems so far.
    Zim
    batteryinstall.jpg

    It's confusing because I did the cutoff on the negative side and used red wire (top)...lol. but it works for me and I had it available. The chassis ground goes straight to the battery. That terminal has the solar, chassis, in and out for the switch. Lots of wire but works well. Power to the fuse box is a 8ga. Also remember that I have yet to put in the inverter, with the power running from the last 2 poles on the controller.
    Z
     
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