Annoyingly High Idle

My 2002 Tacoma did 3000 RPMs while idling all the time when I first got it. The guy who sold it to me said it was normal but I knew it wasn't normal. After a lot of research I found out the Idle control valve was the issue. I replaced with OEM from a Toyota dealer and when I started the truck it would go up to 2500 RPMs and coming down to 750 RPMs once the truck was on running temperature. It's still working fine (knock on wood)

Pains me to say this but if you're replacing the part don't get them from ebay (unless they're 100% OEM replacements) or even the autoparts store because they are made cheaply and they either won't last or won't work properly, specially sensors.

I say this because I replaced the one on my coworkers T100. He bought it for 60 bycks despite me telling him to save and replace with the OEM part but he said no. Fast forward 2 months it took a crap on him. My 06 charger's oil temp sensor failed too and I replaced with autozone part but the CEL went off right away so I had to replace it with OEM from Dodge dealer.

 

New OEM throttle body arrived with all new sensors. Slapped it on in 15 minutes and problem solved. Idles at 850 RPM when fully warmed up. Thanks @codosa for the tip!

Problem was likely a tired throttle body & IAC.

 

Glad it solved your problem, wish I would have been able to figure it out sooner myself.

 

do you know by chance what part number was the throttle body you got? Do they all come with a new IAC too if you get a new throttle body from Toyota parts deal?

 

Part No.: 22210-62260
BODY ASSY, THROTTLE

I have a 2001 tacoma, 5vz-fe, 4x4 and manual trans. So thats the one that fit my model. It comes with a new IAC and TPS and cost me $377 plus shipping.

 

Thank you! I have the same spec except I have an auto transmission.

debating if I should go that route or send to maxbore. I’m idling around 1200rpm now. I may try cleaning myself first then see. I think it will be easier to just spend the extra money and get a brand new one and replace.

 

Honestly, if your TB is already causing a high idle, DONT clean it! The carbon buildup around the butterfly is likely preventing even more air from bypassing. I made this mistake and then HAD to deal with my TB because it jacked my idle up past 3000.

When your truck is running at operating temps, open the hood, grab the mechanism on the TB that the Butterfly-shaft is connected to and give it a pull towards you, if your butterfly valve has worn into the side of the TB this will temporarily reset the butterfly where it needs to be and the idle will drop down until you give it throttle again and the butterfly come back and gets stuck on the lip it has worn into the TB

you can shim that butterfly shaft with a retaining clip or something to keep it where it wants to be. That is how I fixed mine.

Edit if that made no sense I can go take a picture of what I’m taking about

 

You can disassemble and clean it - if done properly you don’t make problems worse.

 

Depends on the problem

 

like I said, if the problem is; the butterfly has worn into the firewall side of the TB(as they do because the spring mechanism is biased to pulling that direction), then cleaning the carbon buildup around the butterfly WILL raise your idle even more. That’s just reality.

If; the the problem is the IAC valve is stuck, and you clean that, you CAN fix the idle.

If; you kept it clean from day 1, the butterfly won’t wear into the TB. Because the “grit” from the build up isn’t aiding the wear.

 

I bet the TB wasn’t clean from day 1. I may just buy a new one and be done with it.

 

It won’t hurt to pull it off and inspect it. Again, @Dalandser isnt wrong that you can pull it apart and clean it and make things better, but that’s if there is not mechanical wear between the actual butterfly valve and the inside bore. For exampleyou can see the wear on the left side. If this is the problem, and you clean the carbon buildup, your idle will go up. This is what max bore fixes.

if IAC is problem, pull it off, clean it, problem solved.

 

If you make the problem worse by cleaning the part, you’re the problem.

 

This stuff ain’t rocket surgery.

 

You wouldn’t be making things worse as stated, would not fix the problem - wouldn’t make it worse either.

 

Ya but it ain’t baking a cake, there’s nuance in the world.

 

The nuance here is you’re not making a problem worse when properly maintaining it. To show I’m not blowing smoke - fully rebuilt / cleaned tb and swapped out stupid philips head screws. If you’re problem is something that doesn’t have anything to do with cleaning - ie a mechanical failure of the butterfly valve then you’re not making it worse - it was already that bad and you’re not properly maintaining by just cleaning it. Perhaps that’s the issue - cleaning and maintaining aren’t the same thing.

 

High idle is caused by potentially a couple of things. That’s why I said IF you can fix the high idle by pulling the butterfly mechanism toward the radiator, don’t clean the TB until you have you solution, unless you want a higher idle. If you try that and nothing happens, it’s unlikely that the butterfly wear is your issue. That’s the nuance I’m talking about. Rebuilt and cleaned are not the same

dude, that’s not “cleaning” that’s rebuilding. Big difference there. Good lord.

all I’m saying is IF THE BUTTERFLY WEAR IS THE PROBLEM. Don’t clean it.

if you have wear like this, cleaning the carbon buildup WILL make your idle go up. That’s just fact. If you don’t have this wear, it won’t.