Long Travel BS Thread

@snowsk8air2

 

Tacomapros.com. I can send you a list later of the rest of the parts needed to do it

 

You don't adjust nitrogen pressure to "tune" the shocks....thats not how any of it works lol

Set it at 150-200psi....and leave it alone...adjust the bypass tubes if you have em...if you run out of adjustment ...change the shims...if u don't have bypasses change shims to tune them....

The ONLY reason to have a nitrogen bottle with you is if your taking your shocks apart every time to tune them.and in that case you gunna want a vice, tools and extra shock oil along with a bunch of rags lol

Truck is leaf sprung? Rebound stack should be as light as possible in the rear shocks....

 

Its like beating a dead horse around here lol

 

What type of battery do you have? If it’s an agm like an optima, you can throw it in the cab.
I thre mine behind the drivers side rear seat. It’s really snug in there and probably doesn’t even need the strap around it. But I threw it in to be safe.


Otherwise there’s lots of battery box options out there that could bolt in the bed. Just search and make sure it fits the dimensions of your battery.

For cables I just measured and guesstimated the lengths and had my local Napa make them.

Summit has this remote terminal kit that I threw in the engine bay to keep easy access for jump starts and what not. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500931

 

Changing the shock pressure will change the effective spring rate, and therefor ride characteristics.

But it's twiddling around the edges after you've got the main springs, and shock valving set correctly.

 

Anyone who has done a +2 kit on a 1st gen, what did you end up doing for axles?

I can't seem to find any off the shelf solutions for this width range.

 

I could be wrong but does it not use tundra 1st gen cv axles?

 

Where are you seeing a +2 kit for a first gen - I don't know of any off the top of my head unless Solo offered one. All bolt on 3.5 LT kits for first gens can use first gen tundra axles *IF YOU HAVE ADD HUBS - MANUAL HUBS WILL NOT WORK*

 

While on dual / battery relocation - I had to reinforce where the pivot point on the cantilever bell cranks mount to the frame. The best way to not have that be a waste of space and not cut through the bed for access to anything underneath it was make a battery mount that holds the batteries sideways. It can pivot for easy access and gets held in place as a strengthening reinforcement made out of beefy but inexpensive material.



Basically angle iron and flat bar.

 

Yeah my understanding is that the 1st gen tundra axle is for a +3.5 kit or so.

I have a +2 kit lol... its actually more like a +1.75" kit and should cycle 11-12" with a 7.5" shock. Its funky.
BUT theres no axle & I'm working on figuring that bit out.

 

Where did you buy it? Or is it DIY?

 

DIY.

I'll probably just make my own shafts too.

 

Right - cutting and sleeving Taco shafts is probably the way to go. It would make it easy for cycling it and measuring.

 

This would be good for figuring things out. Then I believe you can order custom length shafts from Kartek if you give them the dimensions and spline count and what not

 

Hit up @81Trekker, he's got a source for custom axles.

 

I saw your post in the JD thread - why not just build a shock mount tied into your cage? Are you doing custom mounts for your uppers already to get rid of the anti-dive? That would have been something I now would have done, but didn't have the skills / knowledge and couldn't ask for more help than I was already paying for from @Anthony250 at the time

 

That's what I'm going to do for my truck. But I'm toying with custom LCAs for an OEM width that will use an off the shelf 6" king instead of a model specific one, hopefully I can get the LCA + shock to be less than the cost of a Taco specific king.

 

I'm tempted to build a jig and add new sleeves on stock 2nd gen lowers that will just use easy to source delrin bushings and sleeves - the press in junk is a pain.