Out of Alignment Yet Again

Turd gens are actually 135 ft-lbs for the LCA bolts for 4x4.

 

Thanks for the info! I didn't know that

 

Something to consider that I found on an old forum. This fixed my positive camber issue after months of confusion and several alignments. Sorry I dont know who to give credit to on this.....

"If the lift you put on is new and raised the front of your truck then you need to do one simple thing to fix this. Jack up the front of the truck but do not it keep the jack under the lower control arms, use jack stands on the frame placed forward a bit of the front doors. Mark the position of your lower control arm cam bolts and then loosen them. They should twist or pop when they become free. You will know they are loose because you'll be able the turn the bolt side of the cam fairly easily and see the control arm move in or out of centerline. Then take your socket wrench and tighten the nut until there is no play left (5 to 10 ft lbs) do this to both sides. Once complete lower the truck back down and drive in reverse to the end of your driveway straight and then back forward. Crawl under the truck (not on jack or stands) reposition your lower control arm cam bolts back to the marks you made in the begining and tighten to 207 ft lbs. This will correctly index your lower control arm bushings to your new ride height. Lower control arm bushings do not twist themselves only the LCA moves. When you lift the front and obviously push the LCA down at an angle the rubber part of the bushings are put in tension and will always be fighting to return thier original position, thus making alignments to go wonky."

 

Why 0.0 camber? If I understand the sheet the shop gave me, the camber spec is 0.54 with a tolerance range of [-0.21,1.29].

 

Tire wear etc. positive camber. 0.0 will give no positive camber. Also lifting a truck you don’t want back to factory spec ? You just changed all geometry. SPC’s can dial it in. To were you would like if you have a good tech. More caster better freeway driving along with my control.

 

If that was true, why wouldn't Toyota specify 0.0 camber?

Why would I not want a factory camber spec? I installed the SPC UCAs to:

1) clear the larger diameter King coils
2) allow for 1" more travel
3) allow my truck to be aligned back to spec as much as possible while avoiding tire rub

I have a lot more caster now, but only to fit the tires. I don't really notice much difference on the hiway, but my caster might have been slowly increasing over the summer so I didn't notice it. It was ~2.0 in April and ~4.0 in November. It is now ~5.0. If anything, it seems like it requires more steering wheel input to steer, which I find annoying.

 

All I can say I’m super stoked with my SPC’s and alignment I got. With factory UCA’s I was having problems visible positive camber at .6 which drove me nuts , 3 alignments at different shops. It’s sucked. Got a lot help on this forum about specs for alignment etc.