Home Improvement Today?

now we know who does the work in that house

 

I was just there to take pictures.

 

Cross posted from the tools thread:

Has anyone bought the Dewalt Toughsystem 2.0 boxes? Trying to figure out if the rolling box will fit under a tonneau cover on a Tacoma.




I have one of the 1.0 boxes and my biggest gripe is the handle isn’t removable to slide it under things (benches, shelves, truck bed, etc). Seems they tried to address that by making the handle extension removable, but the receiver still looks like it extends higher than the lid. From googling the best I can tell the new minimum height dimension is 22” which is still well beyond the 19” bed height of a Tacoma. If so, the only tuck bed that would actually fit under would be an F150 and Silverado (maybe).

Someone please tell me I’m wrong.

 

Another thing to remember about security cameras, depending on the camera yes you can easily swap out the lenses. I've had lorex cameras, ring cameras, and now I'm using wyze cameras for everything. Wyze cameras for the most part swapping out the lenses is very easy, I then apply a small bead of silicone around the lens to seal the body since I'm just using "weather resistant" cases.

Night vision. Night vision isnt always as bad as it seems with a lot of cameras. A few pages ago someone posted theirs at night showing how dark it is, that was largely due to the position of the camera. You want to avoid close surfaces that the IR can reflect off of, in that instance, the lighter colored side of the structure was a reflective surface bouncing the light back to the camera, which caused everything in the background to wash out. If that camera were to be turned slightly to the right, the vehicle and driveway would come more into view with less being reflected off the structure to the left. Another thing that can be done is to buy an external IR add on, now with this you want to be sure that the one you are buying is within the same nanometer wavelength range so that your camera can utilize it's pattern, but the outcome can be amazing. you can place them all over if you have will to do it which would literally "light up the night" with IR nightvision (see link below for examples, lots of photos in reviews)

$24 Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-LEDs IR Infrared Light 850nm Infrared Illuminator for Night Vision IP67 Waterproof Outdoor for Security Cameras

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B075F7N...olid=18OFR2TTSXOA4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

cool thanks man.

I've ordered the Ring indoor security system, with the keypad and door sensors. That comes with monitoring. and then for the outside, I'll be getting an NVR 8 camera PoE dome system from Back Street Security since its on sale right now. If it wasn't on sale, I'd probably have to stick to ring cameras outside as well, just for the costs.

I think this system gives me the best of both worlds.

Thanks everyone for your help. I'm going to have some pretty good peace of mind once everything is installed.

 

I've got the ring system and for whatever reason, my keypad won't stay synced, no matter what I do.

 

Started with a chicken coop then moved on to building a shed. I design roof trusses for a living and have always wanted to build a shed using trusses. Finally did it. Just need a little more trim and paint.

 

What do you mean by won't sync? I havent set it up yet.

 

Thats pretty cool/fast. Did you do anything internal or externally to act as a top plate on the walls? How'd you do the floor?

 

how far do you have the keypad from the base? are you using the zwave extender that comes with the system?

 

I added internal bracing where the top plate would have been. It was an experiment but I'm not sure I would do it again. I spent more time cutting the floors and siding around the trusses than I liked. But it was cheaper than buying one, spent a little over 2k for it. It's a 10'x16'.

 

You sync everything to the main unit using the mobile phone app. For whatever reason the app won't pick up my keypad (probably just got a junk one). I even tried draining the battery completely and factory resetting it. By sheer luck it synced once and then it disconnected again. It's within range and all that. They've upgraded the system though since I bought mine so it may have just been a thing of the past.
Not really necessary anyway, I can arm and disarm via my phone.

 

so are they essentially like attic trusses ?

 

So my wife wanted to paint the bathroom. Then it turned into new fixtures also. Taking the old light off this is what I find. Plate that holds the light held on with drywall screws and this big hole that wasn’t cut but looks like he smashed in with a screw driver. Anyway should this have an electrical box behind it?

 

Also wanted to say the new light doesn’t cover this hole. This light was put in buy an electrician on a second floor addition we put on about 18 or 19 years ago.

 

I've dealt with that same touch of craftsmanship in three palaces that I've proudly owned...ended up getting an old install light box, grinding my teeth and torturing my liver.

 

I can deal with putting in the box but the Sheetrock is really thin right there. From being smashed in its all hanging by the backside paper. Looks small in the picture. I might cut that out and try to patch it. I’m not really that good when it comes to mud or taping.

 

Looks like how the previous owner of our house did the garage door opener track. Just ripped the ceiling drywall up to get that extra inch of clearance.

 

Pretty much the middle part of an attic truss.

 

“Electrician” lol
I know it sucks but the correct fix is to nail a light box to a stud or a block you bridge 2 studs with (or get something like this
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-Sup...VAdvACh3XeQC-EAQYASABEgJ47fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
in either case you’ll want to remove a rectangle of sheet rock so when you put a new piece in it will catch a stud on each side
I just can’t see an old work light box holding on to the blown out sheetrock that is there now and like you said the new fixture won’t cover the existing hole so you’re gonna be patching it anyway

An “easier” I.e. less legal option might be to get/make a pretty piece of wood that will cover the hole which you can attach to the studs over the sheetrock Drill a hole for the wire then attach the fixture directly onto it.