Show me your sliders?!?! PLEASE!!!

I just ended up ordering a set of @Mobtown Offroad sliders as well as a front skid from them today. Went with the heavy-duty sliders, as I've been eyeing them for more than half a year now. Now that I'm reading the thread, though, I'm wondering what degree they're at. The website doesn't state it anymore, and I distinctly recall being able to select what angle you want. Dig the thread, though, love looking at builds.

 

@Travis727 @CaliRaisedLed - These are pretty good looking - very clean... For those of you familiar with these; Are they good for the weight of the Taco?
I would expect light use from my end... nothing crazy. Just want the protection in case of a slip / slide onto something

 

Mobtown overland sliders

 

CaliRaised 0 degree bolt-on with filler plates. Rhino everything. If I had to do it over, I’d powder coat the sliders and rhino the inserts only.

 

Seems like most people opt for the 0-degree. Any reason aside from using them as steps?

 

Steps are why I went for the 0 degree. They’re basically frame-mounted steps, so I don’t have to worry about the flex of the rocker-mounted steps damaging the rocker over time. I know a guy who punched a hole in his rocker panel when he and his son stepped on his rocker-mounted steps at the same time to get into the truck (they’re both pretty big dudes). I also don’t do any serious off-roading since I live in the Midwest, so I don’t need the better clearance offered by the ones that hug the rocker more tightly.

 

@IndyTac - Can you elaborate on the revision of choice of Rhino vs Powdercoat? Most seem to say that the Rhino or line x is stronger / longer lasting... I am interested in your experience.

 

The Rhino is thicker and messed *slightly* with the alignment when I was trying to bolt them on. I had a slight variance in my frame, which lined up perfectly (in a bad way) with a slight variance in my slider. With the combination of the variances and the rhino, I couldn’t get the starter bolt in. I had to modify the slider slightly by grinding out a little bit of metal in the bolt hole. Once you cut the rhino, though, it starts to peel. Bc I was putting a bolt there, it didn’t really matter, bc the bolt would keep the rhino from peeling more, and I just covered the bare metal that exposed from grinding with a little bit of paint. Also, when you’re cranking down the bolts, the washers can slightly cut the rhino lining. I really like the rhino on the filler plates, but I think powdercoating the sliders themselves would’ve made things easier and better protected the sliders in the long term from rust. After I installed my sliders, I had my underbody coated (I know there’s a big debate on here about whether that helps or hurts), but I felt like that also sealed any cuts in the rhino. Otherwise, I considered getting a can of raptor liner or something and touching it up in spots.

 

They're badass!! The angle is 20 degree and you can still use them as a step if want

 

In addition to using it as a step to access my (future) roof rack, i felt like the zero degree gave me more protection if i slide sideways into a tree from the ground surface being muddy slick clay.

I’ve realized why most are angled up though. Better for rock crawling. If you drop down on a boulder the angled sliders will take the impact better than the zero degree which i imagine could bend.

I’ve also found the zero degree are pretty useless as a step for getting in. I’d say if i could do it again id get c4 or demello sliders, with 20 or 25 degree. Not a huge fan of how mine bolt up.

Make sure when buying you really pay attention to the mounting plates. Are they flat? Are they a right angle? That kind of thing

 

Yea, that's how I feel too.

 

CaliRaisedLED Trail Bolt Ons, $552 OTD, went on easy, very solid, and I’m very satisfied.

 

Not Sliders in the traditional sense, but these beasts will take a beating, Frame mounted and rock solid. I think a swat team could ride on them.
Manufactured by a local guy here in the Portland, OR area.

If you look closely behind the front flair, you will see where someone creased the fender with a car mirror, the sliders kept them off of the rest of the truck. Just buffed off the tire marks on the steps.

 

SDHQ chromemolys 5°, save me 50lbs from HREW or DOM sliders. total with hardware about 99 lbs.

 

Hey CAC, what did you use for finishing your rock rails? I just received a set of bare metal rock rails. I'm starting to look at the numerous possibilities for finishing: Sandblasting & paint, Sandblasting & powder coat, Just paint, or other.

Curious as to what you chose and why?

thanks
AB_Taco

 

Hey Boston23, what did you use for finishing your rock rails? I just received a set of bare metal rock rails. I'm starting to look at the numerous possibilities for finishing: Sandblasting & paint, Sandblasting & powder coat, Just paint, or other.

Curious as to what you chose and why?

thanks
AB_Taco

 

I did two coats of flat black Rustoleum. They’re going to get damaged anyway, so something easy to touch up is a must.

 

I lightly sanded with 500 Grid Sandpaper, then cleaned thoroughly with Acetone. I wore gloves to avoid any skin oils to compromise the surface. Once dry, I did three coats of Etching Primer, then five coats of Rustoleum Mat Black enamel, I let dry for about 12 hours then installed them on my truck. After installation, I touched up where I had some scratches. It turned out very good, and I am happy with the results. Time will tell how well it holds up.

 

RCI’s. They are OK. Rusting a little bit underneath. Will need to address that. The rust is tied to the top plate being added. When they did that, it makes it hard for primer and powder coat to get into the crevices. This is where I am getting rust already. Maybe it’s just what happens.

 

thanks. Yeah. I was thinking something similar for that same reason. Appreciate the info