Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Had another slight set back force me to change my schedule a bit , I'll detail that later when I start installing exterior air barrier / housewrap , but I wanted to keep moving forward so I switched gears and started cutting & installing the rest of the Rockwool Comfortboard insulation baffles

 

I was thinking of OZ when I was using my hole centers...

Hadn't thought of using a forstner bit before, great idea, but I've got a drawer full on these over the years.

 

Finished up all my Comfortboard 80 baffles today and installed and air sealed the square chimney support .





I left out the row of mid span blocking in the rafter bays so it would be easier to install the Comfortboard baffles . Its all pre-cut so tomorrow I will install that and send a picture to my engineer . After thats done I can move outside and install my air barrier / WRB (weather resistant barrier) and install my windows

 

Got my rafter blocking installed and approved by my engineer.

Next up I'm moving outside to install my housewrap and windows.

@23Skidoo ~ you may be interested in this Risinger-speak , the rest of you may feel like you're reading a dictionary

So I mentioned I had a bit of a setback last week which I would explain later and it had to do with my air sealing strategy for my exterior .

On this building I'm using an air sealing strategy that has been championed by one of our local building inspectors who is also a building envelope engineer and energy auditor . Instead of relying on the housewrap as my primary air barrier on the outside , I'm going to be taping the exterior plywood sheathing and that will become my primary air barrier , and then when I install my housewrap WRB (weather-resistant barrier) , I will tape that as usual and it will become a redundant air barrier backing up the plywood .

Long story short , I tried to cheap out and use housewrap tape to tape the plywood seams . The tape seemed to bond well enough but I had some concerns about it being non-permeable tape . The day after I had taped all the seams we had a frost and a lot of the taped seams 'popped' , I think the moisture in the plywood froze and the tape being non permeable could not allow the moisture the pass through the tape so the moisture forced the seam apart .

I ended up ordering some SIGA tapes which is what I should have done in the first place but the price turned me off and I had to wait about a week to get them because nobody carries them local to me . In hindsight after using the SIGA tapes for the first time , this is definitely a case of you get what you pay for , these tapes are amazing .

First the scary part ~

What you see here is $600 CAD of Swiss vapour permeable air barrier tape



When I laid out my foundation , I set the framing line so that the plywood would be flush to the 1"x 1 1/2" level strip I cast in the concrete . This ledge that is formed by the level strip will serve to help support a bottom board that will carry the exterior 2" Rockwool Comfortboard80 insulation but more on that later .

Having the plywood flush to the level strip also makes air sealing this joint easy .




For this bottom seam I used 4" SIGA FENTRIM tape which required no primer to bond to the concrete and I was blown away at how well it stuck to the unprimed concrete with zero issues



I took this next picture for @23Skidoo ~ The Fentrim has a split release paper allowing you to set the top of the tape to a line and adhere it to the plywood all the way down the wall (I was doing a 34' wall by myself) and then come back and remove the bottom release paper and work the tape into the seam between the plywood and concrete and onto the concrete face with a plastic card applicator . On this wall my plywood was about 1/4" proud of the concrete and the tape easily applied to the face of the plywood , the bottom edge of the plywood and then onto the face of the concrete without any bridging . Game changer for air barrier strategy for me going forward , I highly recommend you try a roll of this stuff some time if you haven't already .



After sealing the bottom I switched to 2 1/4" SIGA WIGLUV tape for all the plywood seams and used some more 4" SIGA FENTRIM for the corners





I'll finish that up tomorrow then we can explore installing the windows when using exterior insulation

 

I look at my prefab shed in complete disgust these days. This is a work of art.

 

Your attention to detail and quality of work is amazing. I am a very particular person and your work far exceeds anything I do. Our inspectors would not have a clue on what you have going on. Very nice work!

 

I have most of my Typar WRB installed and taped



Today I made up the exterior jamb extensions for the window rough openings . They will push the windows out to the outside plane of the 2" Comfortboard80 I'm installing on the outside of the building




Bathroom window exterior jamb extension installed

 

...^^^... Great looking work ...

 

Got the 6 corner window exterior jamb extensions installed today and started 'flashing' them all using Dupont Flexwrap

I need all the 6 windows that wrap the corner to align at the bottoms and heads . Back when I decided to lower the rough openings of these windows a bit , I used a rotary laser to make sure all the rough opening sills were perfectly level to each other . I made some little jigs that I screwed to the bottom sills of the rough openings that had a little 1 1/2" block on them that then allowed me to set a couple ledgers exactly 1 1/2" below the rough sills so that when I installed the jamb extensions the would all be perfectly flush . Having the ledgers also let me set the jamb extension boxes on the ledgers and clamp them to the building so I could adjust them side to side to get all the margins between the windows the same




This is basically how all the jamb extensions will be 'flashed' , using Dupont Flexwrap which is a peel & stick that is able to bend around corners so you can get a continuous wrap around inside and outside corners

https://www.dupont.com/products/dupont-flexwrap.html

After my windows are installed there will be a metal head flashing above the top window trim

 

Finished wrapping my exterior jamb extensions today




then my wife gave me a hand and I plunked the windows in their opening (1 window was MIA on my order , will be here next week)

 

I don't believe that.

 

My wife is my best helper. I just can't get her on the roof(afraid of heights).
Do those windows open?

 

I think thats her feelings on it most times too lol

 

the windows on either end of the gable wall set are full casement openers

one lines up with the chop saw bench in case I need to cut boards longer than 16' , the other lines up with tablesaw for same reason

 

that's the type of planning that distinguishes this shop from all others. Im stealing 50% of these ideas for my future shop the currently exists solely in my head.

 

PSA ~

been working on an estimate for new house build all week but back at it on the shop next week , electricians scheduled to come following Monday

 

Back at it on the shop , finished my Typar housewrap WRB , wrapped the upper window jamb extensions with Tyvek Flexwrap and installed my 2 little gable windows





I'm boxing for electrical now and will be drilling wiring routes for the electricians so probably not much photo-worthy in the next little while but we'll see what comes up

 

I suck at this and have no patience. But awesome job, @OZ-T .

 

This really makes me wish I extended my eaves more on my barn