Amsoil Products ATF, MTF, Gear Oils

The OE and XL are exactly the same base oils. XL has an enhanced additive package. I think worth the money, for longer life engine cleanliness, but not mandatory if you want to save a few dollars.

The Signature series has better base oils and different additive package than OE and XL. It has PAO's and esters for longer oil life, mainly for extended oil change intervals of 15K-25K. It's perfectly fine for under 15K OCI's and if whatever reason you have to open your engine up at 300-400K the engine will be spotless.

 

@Pablo8 I had this all spelled out back in the late '70s and early '80 when petro oil was .99 cents a quart and filters were $2.00 each. Resulted in a $20 difference because you HAD to change the petro oil out at 3,000 miles. (8 oil changes in 25k!)

I just posted this in another thread but thought to share here too (even though this thread is for gear lubes - forgive my intrusion):

With synthetic (NOT petroleum), it's up to the owner and oil manufacturer (for warranty) about how often to change it. But many miss a huge point about why to keep it in a little longer.
Cost

Some talk only about finding it cheap, but look at this simple math:
In 25,000 miles changing oil every 5,000.
6 qts @$2.50 ea = $15.00 x 5 =$75.00 ; 5 filters @ $3.33 ea = $16.65. Total in 25k = $91.65
(also consider having to recycle the 7 1/2 gallons of used oil and dispose of the oil containers (5x = 30 bottles & 5 filters!))

6 qts @ $6.25 ea = $37.50 : 1 filter @ $8.68 ea x 2 = $17.36 (change at 12.5k). Total spent in 25k = $54.86.
(one time used oil disposal (to recycle of course) of 1 1/2 gal, 6 bottles & 2 filters)

That is almost $37 which I can now spend on my girl (or truck mods - shhhh). And as long as my 50 years of maintenance experience (personal, military, & airline A&P), Science, oil manufacturers, and others more smarter than me say the oil can take it without any detrimental effects, I'm going for it --- and saving money & mother nature to boot!

The $2.50 and $3.33 prices came from others on TW. Not me.

 

sub'd!

 

Thanks mainly was curious on the XL as they note its good for boosted forced induction engines which category I fall into. Would the signature be even better on top of that? I figure I am already down the rabbit hole if I spend a tad more to get a better cleaner engine it's worth it.

 

Yes better and will last longer.

 

Great I will look into the signature. I still change it more often but rather have it as clean as possible during that window.

Thoughts on Amsoil transmission fluid? I need to do that soon and was considering that for the taco. I may stick with Lucas on the diffs for now since ECGS puts that warranty around that. They seem to be ok with Amsoil (just think it's more than you need) so have not gone back to it. Was using it on stock diffs.

 

I assume AT:

2rd Gen, your choice:

https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-...c-automatic-transmission-fluid-atl/?zo=515729

https://www.amsoil.com/p/oe-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid-otl/?zo=515729

 

nice thanks yah AT. trans shifting like crap after I had a coolant overheat issue so that stuff is toast.

 

nice so basically get the regular or go all out with the signature setup. I wonder how much better or much of a difference it would make. I guess would help with longer internvals if I cant get to it. that would be nice. that's where I am at now. Need to but no time.

 

Hell no! Get the OEM fluid from Toyota, no deviation. Expensive (~$75) but only need one can. (Yes, comes in a 1 LITER can. 1L = 1.1 qt exactly enough for a drain and refill).

 

I would agree on the transfer that the OEM is the no-brainer. I go tit for 65 or so but yeah its bank but has their secret sauce they won't give to anyone.

I had some amsoil in there for a bit but realized it was not the right one and now only run toyota in the transfer case.

 

Source for the OEM TC fluid in 1L can?

 

I'm running Amsoil MTF in my TC with no issues.

Some dealers put gear oil in there. Which is nuts, I agree. But it works.

There is nothing special about the Toyota TC fluid, it is just very very low viscosity. MTF provides better protection and does not cause any 2WD <=> 4WD issues.

That said, use what you are comfortable with.

 

story I always got is it has a formula that they wont tell anyone but most people are pretty damn close.

you have to get it from the dealer. They wont ship it either. Call a dealer and order and pick up.

 

Do you sell grease? Specifically wondering what to get for shackles/greasable bolts for the shackles. In my research I saw someone mention an Amsoil product.

 

This one, or get the #1 variety if you live and work in the very cold: https://www.amsoil.com/p/synthetic-polymeric-off-road-grease-nlgi-2-gpor2/?zo=515729

 

This is safe for poly bushings? Not too smart on grease types but sounds like poly is a hybrid material that's supposed to resist deterioration and be compatible with lots of grease types. Molybdenum came up a lot.

I don't work in the very cold...at the moment. Would it make more sense to just get #1 and be ready or does that incur some loss of efficacy when not routinely operating in the cold?

 

Will not harm poly bushings. Frankly for the loads on poly bushings you could use any of the Amsoi greases.

Indeed the loads are so relatively light the #1 would be fine. Maybe in the tropics use a #2

 

@Pablo8, I think I've got it all figured out. Had multiple deer in the headlights moments but the recommendation by vehicle on the site helped. I googled MX procedures for 2018 ATs and seems I will not need the full capacity specified in the manual. So I'm thinking:

1 of these, and since it seems I'm likely to have extra, then I have extra for the next change. https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-...tomatic-transmission-fluid-atl/?code=ATL1G-EA

Seems I'll need around 6 of these? The site lists 3.2 pints for the front and 8.5 for the rear (DCLB w/diff lock) which equates to just shy of 6 qts. I didn't see a gallon option so assuming one doesn't exist. Next size up is 5 gal, which is overkill. https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-90-svg/?code=SVGQT-EA

Couldn't find the NGLI #1 in MP flavor, so I'll just get a couple 14oz tubes of #2.

I already have oil, so I think the only other fluid I'm missing is for the transfer case, but the site had no recommendations. You said you were running MTF in yours, so does that mean I could use ATF in mine? Otherwise I'll get the Toyota stuff.

I found this pump on the site: https://www.amsoil.com/p/bottle-hand-pump-g2039/?code=G2039-EA#pills-home_0. Do you recommend that one (or a different one)?

 

That pump is good, I haven't bought one for a few year - looks like an improved model.

Here is the one I use (haha):

$15 Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Gallon Bottles and Wide Mouth Quart Bottles (Not for Standard Quart Bottles) - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid, Antifreeze with This 30cc Hand Pump

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DTS8N7P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On quantities, I find the OM to be pretty close on most all the fluids. But they don't usually specify an AT simple drain and fill amount

TC yes MTF, I don't recommend ATF, although it probably would be not much different than the Toyota fluid. Your choice. That unit is not picky, Toyota just wants a really low viscosity oil for MPGs

On the gear oil, I really recommend the 75W-110 for the rear (and 75W90 for front) but it's your call: https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-110-svt/?zo=515729