Is it my compressor or my relay...couple questions

2005 TRD Sport. Driving in a downpour the other night and had the defrost going heavy for 45 minutes. Stopped at a light and smelled slight electrical burn. I then noticed the green AC light flashing orange. Turned the defrost off and on and heard a fairly evident whine from the engine.

Quick research over a couple west coast pale ales tells me it's either the compressor ($) or the clutch relay (much less $). I pulled the relay but didn't smell (or see) any damage. I figured the stench would stick around for a few days.

so...question - am I safe to pull a different relay (I read the horn relay is the same) and test it? Has anyone had this same issue? I had my AC serviced (new condenser) installed this summer and they tested the compressor and deemed it good.


thoughts? Swap/test the relay? Buy a new relay? Take it in to the shop? I attached a couple pics of the relay just in case I'm missing a "dude that's supposed to be pink" or something.

many thanks

 

Dude! That is supposed to be pink!

Joking...

I doubt it is the relay. It very rarely is.

It is more likely the clutch or the compressor. Watch it under the hood while running and see what is actually doing with the clutch.

Energize the AC and the center part of the AC Clutch should lock to the pulley and spin. Then it should cycle on and off as it cools the evaporator. Watch to see if the pulley ever stops as if it does that means the AC compressor is starting to seize up.

 

Quickly rule out the relay with a DVM.

 

Relays don't whine. Does the whine come from the compressor, and does it whine now that it's dry? Heavy rain may have soaked the belt enough to cause it to slip, which would make the AC light flash. You might just need a new belt.
If it whines when dry, the comp or clutch is going out.

 

thanks for the replies peeps. Much appreciated. I'm considering cutting the AC belt (for a temporary fix) until I can get around to replacing the compressor (or clutch). Any issues/concerns with cutting the belt? It only drives the compressor right?

 

If there is only one belt there it is a serpentine belt that drives everything. I would not cut it. If anything, remove the clutch from the compressor and just let it free spin until you can fix it. They may make a belt that does not include the compressor. That I do not know.

 

Do wut?? 06 has a serpentine belt doesn't it? Cut it and no PS, no alt, and no water pump. Drive it that way, and overheat the engine. Bad stuff happens.

 

Just pull the magnetic clutch relay.

 

Here is a some information that may help you.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-light-blinking-troubleshooting-guide.440200/

 

Easier to cut the belt.

 

That smell was the mag clutch frying. It probably looks black and cooked too.

The relay wont smell like that when it fails

 

Cutting the belt seemed bizarre but I'd read it in a couple spots online. Looking at my engine and yes....it's certainly not an option.

Here's the next question. New clutch is $85 and it's at my door tomorrow and I can swap that myself. Not sure I can do the compressor myself.

It would seem that in most cases it's the clutch (and bearing) that would sh*t the bed rather than the compressor. Should I swap the clutch or bite the bullet and replace the whole unit.

Again, my Taco is at 220,000KM so many parts are likely nearing their end.

thoughts appreciated as always.
M

 

I’d swap the clutch if there was no noise from the compressor before this happened.
As in the compressor was making a grinding or or squealing noise.

 

Nope...unit was working perfectly until I smelled something fried and then the gross noise.

 

Thanks for the help so far folks...got the new clutch delivered but I'm stumped as to how to remove the old one (more so how to remove the bolt in the middle). Any tricks to holding the clutch in place? It just spins and spins and there aren't really any spots to clamp to.

 

I believe it's an 8mm (or 10mm ?) bolt head on the clutch hub that needs to be removed. Be careful when you remove the hub because there are shims behind it (3). If your hub is toast and everything else appears good you can install the hub and you should be good to go. If no joy, then you'll have to remove the hub again and remove the elector-magnetic part of the clutch. A large snap ring secures it. I believe there are a couple of other minor items to remove. Before you take my word as gospel, do a search to check on the proper procedure for removal and replacement. Memory doesn't serve me very well these days....

 

The kit I bought has the clutch / hug and coil so I'll swap them all. I just can't get the first step to happen as the clutch spins freely and I can't find a good way to lock it in place. That's my first hurdle.

 

A strap wrench works well.....

 

https://youtu.be/bYQtP2pvpkM

 

Or a spanner. Or a small air ratchet, not strap or spanner needed. Just be certain to have the ratchet turning the correct direction.