Long Travel BS Thread

I guess I was kinda vague, I am looking to go with DKs full LT set up with their spec shocks and was wondering if I could just leave TCs hoop in place to swap over to DKs full LT kit.

 

Thats a can of worms I looked at back a few years ago and really just decided it makes more sense to build another truck. I will always keep the tacoma but the reality is to be happy I need a v8. Then the front diff will never survive, I have already blown a bunch of those. Then I am going to need to link it to keep the rear axle under control. I would basically be starting over and my truck works very well. So might as well Just build another truck. I just want to dial this thing in best I can before it gets pushed to the side. Lots of fun with it over the years.

 

sell it and start fresh... thats what i should have done lol had a clean fun truck then fucked it all up

 

You might just have to make that decision when the DK kit goes on. Whether or not the bypass lines up correctly with the upper and lower shock mounts when you go to cycle everything without binding.

Shock placement on the lower arm will definitely be different from the TC lowers to the DK LT. If anything, best would be to relocate the tabs on the hoop if things aren't working well together.

 

@Tacomoto23 Thank You Sir. I was thinking it would take some mock up and a few cycles, I just wanted to throw it out there to make sure I wasn't completely off base to try it. BF 15% off is a good bit of coin to save, so I might have to bite on their LT kit.

 

Ahhh gotcha. Yeah I thought you were gonna try to run the LT shock on stock length arms. Like @Tacomoto23 said, you’ll have to mock it all up and cycle it. But man do I love my DK kit and it has taken a ton of abuse. So if you are on the fence for pulling that trigger then go for it. You’ll probably have to move the upper bypass tabs on your tc ones but it should be close enough to work

 

@snowsk8air2 Yes Sir, have heard nothing but good stuff on the DK. Sorry about the misleading initial post, some days I think everyone can read my mind. Thanks!

 

Same here. And we’ve seen much stranger questions in here so it wasn’t a huge red flag or anything

 

whos everyone using for custom brake lines? the way i now have to route my lines won't work the factory way anymore so i'm gonna route them along the LCA. Does Crown do -AN ends on their lines or just inverted flare/banjos?

 

yeah that’s kind of what I was thinking when you mentioned the xlt kit. I’d put $10k into something new with a V8 and linked since your leafs are probably what’s going to limit it eventually. FWIW @dirt addiction aka the_duhtchman IG ran big tires with the xlt and 8” front and made it work.

Crown and similar shops make whatever you want - G and J aircraft make inverted flare 10 mm so I can go from the junction block to the caliper. Depends on what brakes you’re using - I’d imagine you have an upgrade for your V8’s extra power. If you’re sticking with Toyota brakes I’d avoid banjo bolts since some remanned calipers don’t accept them in the case of having to get a last minute replacement if one seizes or something.

 

Hey guys... long story short my truck was stolen last night... & wrecked i had huge plans for it i had a 5in over long travel kit for it... along with 2.5x10 coilovers the whole package if anyone is looking to make the switch from stock or mid to full blown LT let me know i need whatever $ i can get from my vehicle being stolen insurance not covering it... contact me at 909-553-9031 thank you.

 

Sucks dude

 

Hey...what's the length of the rod on your heim tie rods? I just ordered a set from Kartek...just curious. Are you running +3.5"LT?

Thanks!

 

Workbench image. Here’s what I came up with using ballistic fab tube adapters and FK 3/4” rod ends with jam nuts. The overall length is what you would use if you bought threaded tubes. Yes this is for a plus 3.5” LT kit with Camburg inner clevis mounts.

 

Awesome! Thanks! I'm running +2LT...have the camburg inner clevis mounts, 3/4 inner and 7/8 outer. Measured and measured...I think I will be good.
Appreciate your time!

 

It’s pretty easy, mock up the heims on the inner and outer. With the hubs pointed straightish and the jam nuts centered in the threads, measure the distance between the nuts. Then measure the passenger’s side. Average the two measurements and that should’ve be your starting point.

 

-03' T4R V8-
Well the BF bug bit me.
Can I blame my poor financial judgement and no money for Christmas presents on covid?

Now I need to sell my 1st gen T4R to pay for shocks, and the TC standard length dual set up will be up for sale in the next couple months.

I will definitely have a few questions for you guys in the near future. First off, am I right in thinking the COs shouldn't need an adjuster if I put a Triple in there with them?
Thinking about going with @AccuTune Offroad this time around.

Also getting rid of the OEM 3:73s and going with 4:56 nitros, so this 2UZ should have some grunt. Even though my rear travel isn't bad (9-10") with a CaliFab 4 link, I am planning to squeeze a little more out of it by relocating the upper shock mounts and going with a longer bypass and bump cans to get some more "UP". You Tube vid of the rear doin work.

 

just for some clarification, are you trying to go with the DK 3.5" kit and keep the existing TC shock hoop?

I'm sure you could make it work if you took your time cycling the suspension to make sure you bypass zones are correct. If I'm not mistaken, the TC bypass spec is shorter than the standard 8" stroke bypass so you'd want to confirm you don't have bottom out issues.

Edit: I read more through the thread. You've answered my initial question.

 

mine are 12.5” from threaded face to threaded face

 

I’ve just got 5th gen 4runner brakes for now. Trying to figure out this line Routing thru travel is giving me a headache...lol trying to do it off the lca but having a tough time trying to figure out where to attach it where it won’t run or bind during travel and turn.... not the easiest I will say...