Tyler Lacasse's Supercharged 3RZ Dual Cased Fully Locked Long Travel Crawler Build

Got this response on FB and it makes sense.

Haven't drained the oil yet. Just got home and will probably do it tomorrow. Curious if any pretty colors come out...

 

I couldn't resist. Went out and pulled the plug. Only about a cup of oil came out and it had shrapnel settled into the drain plug.

I don't know what the root cause of oil loss was yet. I can probably conclude the damage was due to lack of oil. There was oil spewing between the transmission and the crawl box. There is a seal and aluminum spacer between the two and I think something nave have gone out between the two.

 

4th is 1:1 and the only gear just on the main shaft in a w59 but either way the transmission sounds like it’s junk now from fluid loss

 

Maaaan..... It's been such a long couple days. It is in fact 4th not 3rd. Thank you for the feedback.

 

Is it worth swapping in a r trans - I know someone...

 

I am going to stick with a w59 since I just went through fitting everything to one. If I was doing SAS on 39"+ Tires I'd probably go with the R series from the start. But I ain't that baller haha.

Get this- I didn't know the crawl box was supposed to have its own seal*s* and gaskets. I just RTV'd a bunch around it. I'll attach photos in a few weeks once I get everything apart and examine the carnage. The crawl box and transfer case should be just fine. I feel like this one got the best of me this round, but you win some you loose some.

I just bought a gasket and seal kit for the crawl box from LROR. However, in regards to actually getting all this back together it probably wont be a few months into next year until I can get another trans. I did all I could with this project in hopes it'd all work out okay, but I just don't have the room to shell out for another transmission this time of the year. It drives me nuts because I am so close, but it is what it is at this point.

 

This is the only seal when using a crawlbox, attached to the aluminum extension. What gasket are you referring to with the crawlbox?

 

Wow- I totally figured out what had happened.

Remember when I had the 26 to 23 splined adapter in the kit and it didn't work but I had sourced the correct 26 to 21 splined adaptor at Trail Gear?

Check this out....mind blown.
Look at the seal size


And the ever so slightly smaller seal with the 21 spline shaft which I have.



Well, that explains where all my oil went.


So I was looking at this stuff and saw-


The gasket kit I ordered had seals, but it looks like I don't need the seals, but that must have been for a stock application. However, there is a gasket that goes on both sides it looks like.

I feel much better now that I actually have slept a full day! Bummed out about the situation, but I feel good about what I found out. Looking forward to getting this right once I get another transmission!

I really cannot thank all you guys enough for the help and feedback on all this stuff!

 

No one I know, my self included don't use the supplied paper gasket. My tacobox arrived with RTV from MC and other crawlbox we built, we use RTV. The paper gasket wouldn't be the culprit of your issue. The aluminum extension seal being the wrong size (if smaller) will tear (if the coupler OD is too large) and cause oil to transfer from housing to housing, causing your transmission to run hot and dry.

 

I will cancel my order on the gasket set then. Good to know.

I was in the opposite situation- I ordered a new seal identical to the one in the kit (which looked a bit dry) and it was the bigger one for the bigger shaft which I was unaware of at the time. But I can see how it would be just big enough to let the oil out @ 2mm oversize on the ID.

 

When considering 2mm difference, it may not seem like a big deal, but over time, oil can seeped pass the input and empty the transmission or vice versa.

Have you drain the transmission, crawlbox, and 4wd section and see how much oil is left in each section?

 

I grenaded a trans when the trans output shaft seal failed and all my trans fluid ended up in the crawl box and vented out over time.

 

I haven't drained them yet other than the trans, but I am crossing my fingers the crawl box is okay. I would think the way the factory t-case is set up it would be fine. But I am definitely curious if the crawl box filled up, drained out, or stayed the same.

Ouch man. That really sucks to have something like that creep up on ya and cause that kind of damage.

 

Yea leaving a stoplight and BOOM. Blew out evrey gear but 4th, totally dry. I filled it up with fluid and drove it for another month until I could get a trans and it was my DD, I went though a qt of fluid a day for a few weeks.

 

Wow!! That is freaking epic to pull something like that off. Well I am glad your truck is at least in a good spot now!

 

I recommend checking with marlin on sourcing a trans from them. Local yards wanted $1k+ for a 100k+ mile trans, marlin was only $100 more for a zero time rebuilt trans. They ship it to you in a plastic tote and you send your trans back as a core. They have kind of a long turn around so call them asap if you go that route.

 

Okay guys- I have some awesome news! I am finally getting contracted out moving on to full time with a tunnel boring company as a mechanic on a local project in Los Angeles and very grateful to have weekends off still. Looks like I am going to be able to finish up my truck sooner than planned and be done with it and able to enjoy it. I haven't touched a single thing since the trans blew. Needed a break after cramming to get everything together.

My goals in order to finish this short term:
1) Marlin rebuilt transmission
2) ECGS front diff
3) Swap out the manual hub setup for ADD
4) Front Driveshaft
5) Front hydro bumps.

That'll get 4 wheel drive complete finally.

Long term goals after that:
1) Get the remaining Trail Ready Rims and put some 38X13.50X17 Patagonia M/T Tires on them. I think this'll be an ideal setup for me.
2) Bigger MIG Welder that is TIG capable (been wanting to do this for so many years as I struggle immensely with the lack of power I currently have).
3) 1-3/4" Affordable Bender tube bender
4) Make my own bare bones basic bed and in cab cage, nothing fancy.


And I think that is it for my major short term and long term goals. It may change down the road...who knows...but I don't really plan on doing bypass shocks or anything. Just planning on valving my current setup and enjoying it finally!

 

Bumper is barely hanging on with one bolt, but picture for reference and there is a bottle jack holding the leaf down a couple extra inches for bolt clearance on my shackle...

Going to do a thin piece of steel between the bed and the bumper to cover the gap showing the air compressor and thank sitting there.

I dig it though. Waaaaaay lighter than the other setup.

 

There we go!
License plate will sit perfectly within the big gap between the tailgate and bumper.

 

Found a great deal on a rock solid old school Miller water cooled TIG Welder!! May not have all the fancy gizmos the newer ones have, but it'll work perfect for my use and I won't be struggling with lack of power anymore.