New clockspring was missing a plug, but everything works?

Alright so I ordered a clockspring from Partsgeek: https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2013/toyota/tacoma/steering/air_bag_clockspring.html

Specifically the $110.98 one - SKP brand, airbag clockspring, 2013 Tacoma. I have a 13 tacoma. It was missing the white plug I'm pointing to in the photo. However, all of my controls work, and my airbag light has gone off. Beforehand, I had no cruise, no horn, no audio controls, and the airbag light was on. It seems this has fixed all of my issues, but one of my harnesses is lonesome. Anyone?

 

Is that connector for the cruise control? I notice in images, it appears the ones without that connector indicates w/o cruise control.

 

Negative. The cruise control works, all of my audio controls work - including the stuff for the telephone. The horn works. The airbag light has disappeared. I can't, for the life of me, figure out what it is. Everything appears to function.

 

What colors are the wires that connected into the connector?

 

Now that you mention it, it would have been a terrific thing to make note of before I put it all back together. No idea

 

That looks like the steering wheel angle sensor....

 

When I replaced mine I had to transplant a section of it to the new one, can't recall what it went to though.
If I had not transplanted the part I too would have had a plug with no home.
I found a few different you tube vids showing how to move the part to the new clockspring.

 

Jimmy was right, steering angle sensor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waz57sUB4wE
here's the video, look at about the 3:40 mark

 

He will need to go back in again and transplant it from old to new.

I would have thought that would have been obvious before installing the new Spiral Cable.

One of these things is not like the other game...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsRjQDrDnY8

 

That figures. I did not realize this, and I wanted to know how it works - I completely disassembled the old piece. It's trash.

Guess I have to order a new one.

 

Also - if any of you are fantastic at google-fu.. I don't want to pay $400 for a new one (and I'm not gonna). Would appreciate help tracking down a cheaper one. Amazon special is fine with me but I'm having trouble there too.

This looks exactly the same, and most everything is from 05-15 - thoughts? https://www.ebay.com/itm/05-12-Toyota-Tacoma-Steering-Wheel-Position-Sensor-SAS-Module-GENUINE-OEM/284078337916?epid=672158279

EDIT: I was able to get the old one off and installed it this morning. It was not broken. However, after installing it, and resetting my VSC, the lights for ABS/BRAKE/VSC came back on. The sensor itself may be bad, so I went ahead and ordered that one.

 

If you want to go OEM, and assuming yours would be part #89245-0R020, Conicelli has it at $300.10 plus shipping (about $8). I have ordered multiple times from them, and they have been great for me.

Used (yard or ebay) would be a lot cheaper, but I don't know how parts like this works out buying used.

 

OKAY. Update for anyone keeping track of this shit-show. Took the truck to get an alignment before having the steering angle sensor initialized. It was a bit out of line, but got it fixed. Sensor reads, and is initialized. Cleared the codes.

Drove a quarter mile. ABS/BRAKE/VSC lights back on. Had codes pulled again - LH rear speed sensor. Voltage at the pigtail is good. Maybe my new sensor is crap - replaced sensor with another OEM sensor. Same thing.

C1404 is the code it pulled. Well, a shot wheel bearing throws the same code, and when I pulled my old sensor - it was covered in unpleasant material. Metal shavings. So, I'm assuming my trouble is a bad LH rear wheel bearing.

Never installed one before, but bout to learn I guess. 233k miles

 

Assuming the rears are the same (2wd or 4wd), you will either need the special tool or take the axle to a shop to press out. The special tool is because you have to pull the axle out with the bearing attached and press the axle out of the bearing, so the tool looks like a steel tube with flanges welded to each end. The factory one is like over $400 (I have read), but I got mine off ebay for $132. There are cheaper versions, but I got mine from the guy who originally created the 'ebay clone' tool. There are cheaper cloned versions of his clone (made in China, even if shipped from US), but I knew that guy's version was better quality (steel and welds). A vid by Timmythetoolman on youtube pointed me there.

But I bought it cuz I like excuses for new tools. If you pull it yourself and have a shop do the pressing, it's not necessarily worth it, but it is cheaper than having a shop doing the whole thing.

 

I was intending to remove everything myself and have a shop reinstall the new stuff, but I may do it myself. I could make a tool to press the axle out of the bearing, but I'm unsure of getting the new stuff installed to the proper distances again. Then again, once I get the axle out, I may just decide to do it all myself.

When you did it, did you replace all the seals?

 

Yes wheel bearing and shaving on the speed sensor will interfere with the sensor operation and cause a code.

 

On the 2013 there is no "distance" to be concerned about. You just keep pressing until it stops. Once everything is PROPERLY pressed, there will just enough clearance in the snap ring groove. When I did mine, I got lazy the first time and didn't use the tool properly, so it was a tight fit when putting the snap ring. I put it back in the press properly, and it was OK.

There is only one seal to worry about in the axle housing, which you want to replace since the axle is out anyway - it would suck to take it out again because the old seal start leaking. The bearing has a seal built in to the front. One thing to be cognizant about is the conical washer - make sure it faces the right way when you press it back together. The retainer CANNOT be reused as it's press fit and gets scored on the inside from pressing. I got a new snap ring because you're supposed to and it's cheap anyway, but I have read that some just reuse.

The hub bolts (not to be confused with "serration bolts"), deflector, and gasket is NOT replaced because it all stays intact when you press the axle out/in from the bearing. Be careful not to damage the backing plate. It's stout, but if you have to get a new one, they're a little pricey. I also got new serration bolts and nuts just because I knew it would be rusted enough. Pic below is for 5 lug. The pic for 6 lug is exactly the same except the image of the deflector, gasket, and shaft shows 6 holes (duh).

 

How about some clearification?

Is this thread about clock spring repair or wheel bearing repair.

You all kind of lost me.

 

That's quite helpful. However I see in all the videos, there's also the ABS gear, which I don't see in that exploded view. I assume everything else is the same tho. I can figure out a way to press everything out - I'm not spending $100+ on a tool I can make, and (hopefully) won't have to use again it'll be a fun challenge.

So, order just the bearing, retainer, snap ring and seal, for a typical job?

 

It started as a clock spring repair, which I did. However, it has morphed into a wheel bearing. Why, you ask? Good question. Horn quit 5 years ago. Audio controls 2 years ago. Cruise last year. Airbags a few months ago. ABS/BRAKE/VSC lights went on about 8 months ago. Yes, my dash has been lit up like a Christmas tree.

I started this thread about the clock spring issue, as there was a wiring harness that didn't have a home on the new one. I found out what that harness went to - the steering angle sensor. I then thought my ABS/BRAKE/VSC was on due to the steering angle sensor, given the codes pulled this spring from the ABS/VSC/BRAKE shenanigans.

However, through all of this, I have learned a lot, as I've done tons of troubleshooting. The angle sensor is good, and is initialized - the code continuing to be tripped is not due to my angle sensor. It is due to a bearing that shit the bed.. and that's what we're discussing as of now.

So, to answer your question... yes. it's actually about both, due to the way all the troubleshooting took place. And due to a little misinformation from clown-ass mechanics, but I blame myself for trusting them.