ICON coilovers TOO STIFF

My two cents... think you have to much Pre-Load. Try an Inch and a half,, ride them. If it gets better, but not amazing try an Inch of preload... you’d be amazed at how much preload affects your comfort and ride. (A lot like what the Dekine was saying about 4 up/4 down of travel,, you want to ride in the soft part of the shock)

 

There is a method to measure down travel. With wheels on the ground, measure from either center hub to fender, or top of tire to fender, either will work. Do this for both sides. Now raise the vehicle to where the wheels are off the ground and re measure. The difference is down travel and the absolute minimum is 2". If an adjustment must be made, make an adjustment, then put the wheels back on the ground. You can't measure yet, vehicle must be rolled forward and back while turning the wheels to settle the suspension, then a measurement can be taken.

 

Absolutely what Tex said. You’d be amazed what even a 1/4 inch to 1/2 an inch can, will do to your ride: just find the sweet spot.

also worth noting, some times ya think it’s the front that’s two stiff,, and you’ll find out later it was your rear end (but it’ll feel like it’s the front). Down side is ya might have to get shorter Eye-let’s for your shock or change mount location: good example my rear Bypasses were setting at around 6 inch of shaft exposed; turns out for my Fox’s (switched from Kings) needed about 8 inches of shaft exposed to be in my Road Sofa goal. At 6 inches my shock was loading up for a G out/jump... making my ride really stiff and bouncy

good luck my man

 

No way ahahah seriously? I guess it makes sense. Shock body ain’t that long if you think about it so 2” is a big difference in terms of how and how much it will absorb and dampen

 

So it looks like I’m good?

 

Thats too much for no added weight IMO. I ran mine (before steel bumper) and it was still a little stiff with the stock 650lb springs at that preload. I felt like less threads showing = smoother ride, until you get some real weight up there.

Also don't ruin your expensive coilovers because you don't want to spend the $25 or whatever for the spanner. If you bugger up those holes you might be screwed....

 

I haven’t ruined my holes yet. Also if you do ruin the holes, you can turn the thing still with some large channel lock pliers or something. Additionally, I have around the same as him and mine ride entirely fine with no weight up front

 

So it says max at 2.13” but I’m more of like a 1.

So it says 2.13” max and I’m more of 85%-90% of that... should I be more in the 50% of the 2.13% to get the best out of the coilovers? I’ve heard the spammer wrench from icon is terrible

 

I hope all these Icon guys complaining about stiff ride realize they bought a digressive shock. There is a reason they are less desirable in most applications compared to linear and progressive shocks like Fox and King.

I recommend folks read about the differences.

 

mare they made to go fast vs kings and fox? Are fox for for rocks and bumpy trails?

 

Both, Fox and kings are linear in that they perform better all around in pretty much every situation. Digressive shocks are honestly better suited for the road and towing. A digressive dampening curve is much harsher and why we often see digressive shocks in street performance vehicles but expect to feel every pot hole

 

Well I do want to say this. Accutune did say ICONs are not true digressive shock, they have nearly linear compressions but have a digressive nature, If I remember reading correctly. Bileteins are true digressive shocks I believe and nobody downplays those. Haha

 

Not according to the dampening curves. It’s night and day.

 

Oh, I haven’t actually seen ICONS dampening curve. To my knowledge, they do not release that information whatsoever. Unless you have? Haha it’s possible. Also the accutune article, that was generic, that was not actually their dampening curve

 

Correct me if I’m wrong?
Also I realized I meant to say I placed 600lb coils*** on my coilovers*

 

I mean who am I to say you're wrong? I just found your description to be a little vague/confusing?

The combination of spring rate & valving are the main factors as far as shock characteristics go so trying to differentiate between rough/stiff is misleading. Yes, you can have too much spring rate and improper valving, which most Tacoma owners do, that will give you a harsh ride quality but same could be said with the opposite.

Regardless, digressive valving is typically a little harsher with slower shaft speeds because of the preload on the valve stack. How much preload will change how much force is required to open the valve stack, therefore ride quality which is why Icon is known to have good street characteristics but Fox/King are known to be better for off road due to their progressive/linear characteristics.

 

Oh okay, no i wasn’t trying to sound like an ass! Haha I was being honest, if I’m wrong please correct. But yes I realized it was confusing after haha.

And yes, this. precisely what you said in the rest of your comment.

 

Interesting though because when I haul over stuff and actually get my shocks to completely cycle, it feels pretty nice. Would fox and king really be that much better for desert applications? I mean, I haven’t ever driven a truck with them so I don’t know. I have ridden in a truck with fox’s but my truck was far smoother (this is out in the desert)

 

Again, far too many variables to give a direct answer. I'm talking theory on paper.

You say haul which makes me assume you've got a fair amount of shaft speed. Otherwise enough for your Icons to perform as intended and create enough force to open the valve stack. The downfall is that if you create too much shaft speed your dampening force tappers off. You can see this on the dyno chart. Again, talking theory. Who actually drives their truck hard enough to notice this?